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Thread: Ghetto Short Shifter

  1. #1
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    Ghetto Short Shifter

    Hey you guys. Got a question for you. I don't want to spend a lot on a short shifter so I was wondering if we could just take our stock ones and cut like 5-6 inches off of it and then re-weld it togeather? Would this work? If anyone has ever driven a s14 I would like my shifter to be that low or a little bit lower. Is this possible or is it better to just buy one. It's a 90-93 integra one that works right?
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  2. #2
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  3. #3

    Justin86's Avatar
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    I just cut mine and welded it just like in the diagram. It's been over a year with no problems.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  4. #4
    LX User spades27's Avatar
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    but can you buy them ????

  5. #5
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    I didn't quiet understand what he did. Later in the post it says that he didn't just cut out some of the top portion and re weld it. The poster made it sound like he cut parts out of the top and bottom.
    For Sale:
    T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
    P75 ECU
    Untouched Head

    Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone

    Misc.
    DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
    PS1
    NES
    Needed:
    Dremel
    Money

  6. #6
    Accord of the Year - 2007

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    Quote Originally Posted by w00tw00t111
    I didn't quiet understand what he did. Later in the post it says that he didn't just cut out some of the top portion and re weld it. The poster made it sound like he cut parts out of the top and bottom.
    Actually if you look at the diagram I cut parts out of the top and added to the bottem. When you extend the bottme and shorten the top that is how a true short shifter is made. It's not completely relient on how long the shifter is it also has to do with were the shift ball sits.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legend_master
    Actually if you look at the diagram I cut parts out of the top and added to the bottem. When you extend the bottme and shorten the top that is how a true short shifter is made. It's not completely relient on how long the shifter is it also has to do with were the shift ball sits.
    So if you cut out 4inches from above the ball then you take that four inch section and weld it to bellow the ball? Then re-weld the top part?
    So essentially your going to make three cuts and weld twice? Cut out the top and then weld in the cut part in the bottom?
    Thanks legend. I appreciate it.
    Also how much did you cut out? I would like mine to be a little lower then yours if possible.
    For Sale:
    T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
    P75 ECU
    Untouched Head

    Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone

    Misc.
    DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
    PS1
    NES
    Needed:
    Dremel
    Money

  8. #8
    Accord of the Year - 2007

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    Quote Originally Posted by w00tw00t111
    So if you cut out 4inches from above the ball then you take that four inch section and weld it to bellow the ball? Then re-weld the top part?
    So essentially your going to make three cuts and weld twice? Cut out the top and then weld in the cut part in the bottom?
    Thanks legend. I appreciate it.
    Also how much did you cut out? I would like mine to be a little lower then yours if possible.

    First off if you put 4 inches below the ball I think you will be hitting the heatshield with the shift lever. I would only put in about 1 inch or maybe 2, also I would not recomend going any lower then I did. If you look at the shift knob it is what makes the lever still look a little tall. If you were to buy a little smaller shift knob, it wouldent be so bad. If you do plan on going lower, make sure to take a stick or something and measure where you actually want your hand to rest, because much lower then mine = your hand inside the center console.
    Last edited by Legend_master; 06-26-2005 at 01:05 PM.
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  9. #9

    Justin86's Avatar
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    add more to the bottom with shorten the throw of the shift, making it go into gears faster. All I did was add about 1/2" and that increased the throw by 30% which it the max I recomend. A lot of people are against that mush due to the an increase wear on syncs. most aftermarkt shifters will have the 30% increase but no more.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin86
    add more to the bottom with shorten the throw of the shift, making it go into gears faster. All I did was add about 1/2" and that increased the throw by 30% which it the max I recomend. A lot of people are against that mush due to the an increase wear on syncs. most aftermarkt shifters will have the 30% increase but no more.
    So your saying only add 1/2" below the ball? And cut about 1-2" off from above the ball? Thanks for the help. Just can't visualize it. I suck at turning words into pictures.
    For Sale:
    T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
    P75 ECU
    Untouched Head

    Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone

    Misc.
    DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
    PS1
    NES
    Needed:
    Dremel
    Money

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