Multiple Questions ( Carb - Lx ) Idle , Belt , Power

[Aggressive Kitten]

1988 Honda Accord LX-- Carb.
Hell bent on making this car last.

It's my first car, i've gotten very attached, if I had the money i'd keep it forever replacing whatever along the way (who knows).

Overview:

-Idles high when I first start it up (typical, so i'm told)--I just tap the gas and it goes down.
-After I run it for 5 minutes it begins to idle REAL low, below 1,000 RPM, almost at 0 (If that makes any sense)--Is that normal?

Things i'm really concerned about:

-Sometimes it makes a squealing noise (drive belts I think?), but it only happens occasionally. Was told the belt was starting to develop a small crack in it and needed to be replaced--That's what i'm doing first.
-Rocker arms (camshaft) under the valve cover seem to be loose, someone told me to just get a new one, and that shops rarely adjust them?
-When I turn the car off (occasionally) it seems as though the engine continues to run, and shakes (clunks?) off.
-Just replaced the front brakes and calipers, was going to do the rotors but didn't have time and NEEDED the car--Will be replacing the rotors shortly...Brakes are still making a high pitch squeal occasionally... Haven't been able to check the back brakes, and the front brakes were def. due for a brake change (so I replaced them immediently)--Ideas for why I still have the squeal?
-Shifter knob turns 25% more to the right than it should, meaning the 12345 is facing towards the doors, it's crooked, the casing turns with it, and it's almost like tangled--It's not really a problem, just rather annoying?
-AC doesn't work--I know I have to have someone else check that out, but any tests I could run to get a potential reason before I take it in?
-Sometimes makes grinding sound when I try to put it in reverse (clutch pushed all the way in), fingers messed up maybe?
-Usually I have to pump the gas a little to get the car to start when it sits overnight, typical? It's worse if it's cold out.

Minor problems:

-Steering wheel doesn't move up and down, there's a little knob you can pull out, below it, i'm assuming that would adjust it, but I guess it might be jammed or something because it won't budge.
-When my lights are still on, after I turn off the car it doesn't "DING" at me anymore, I ended up leaving my lights on one night (I was f-ing tired) cause I usually rely on the annoying "DING" to remind me.
-Clock light dims dramatically when I turn on my headlights...Normal?
-Cruise control doesn't work.

I think that's it?

So far i've already fixed the oil leak I had (valve gasket cover), replaced the battery, brakes, calipers, tires, fluids, flushed and filled the radiator, replaced the sparkplugs, and wires, getting ready to put some more work into it, was just wondering if there is anything I posted that I should be REALLY concerned about that I should take care of first?

It drives real smooth, I get really awesome gas mileage, can't hear any noise unless I'm at a stop light, I can hear the car running, and occasionally a slight squealling from the belts.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry so long!

[Aggressive Kitten]

I do have the maintenance book for this car, I have referred to it several times, wanted PEOPLE opinions.

[PortugalFocus]

low idle - check rich/lean adjustment screw (do a search, it's on her esomewhere)

squealing - could be dry belts but if it does it when it's very humid or right after it rains it's normal. (water gets on the belt and then it goes away when the water eveporates)

Rockers can be tightened... if that doesn't fix it, you may have some valve tap. add about 1/2 quart of transmission fluid to the motor oil, that will help it quiet down.

With the dieseling... I can't help. Could be bad tune-up parts, or in need of a tune up. (plugs primarily)

Shifter knob - can't really fix. replace shifter knob or add an epoxy to the inside of the knob thread, tighten and let sit.

Steering wheel - no help
Chime - no help

Clock - dramatic dim is normal

AC - turn the ac on high. let it run for a minute or 2. Open the hood and check the AC lines (one will have a blue cap and one will have a red cap in the middle of the line itself sticking up) to see if either of them are cold. If so then it's either a broken cable or solenoid or switch for the ac or it could be a clogged evap core. if they don't get cold it could be a siezed compressor or a freon leak somewhere.

hope this helps

[Aggressive Kitten]

low idle - check rich/lean adjustment screw (do a search, it's on her esomewhere)

squealing - could be dry belts but if it does it when it's very humid or right after it rains it's normal. (water gets on the belt and then it goes away when the water eveporates)

Rockers can be tightened... if that doesn't fix it, you may have some valve tap. add about 1/2 quart of transmission fluid to the motor oil, that will help it quiet down.

With the dieseling... I can't help. Could be bad tune-up parts, or in need of a tune up. (plugs primarily)

Shifter knob - can't really fix. replace shifter knob or add an epoxy to the inside of the knob thread, tighten and let sit.

Steering wheel - no help
Chime - no help

Clock - dramatic dim is normal

AC - turn the ac on high. let it run for a minute or 2. Open the hood and check the AC lines (one will have a blue cap and one will have a red cap in the middle of the line itself sticking up) to see if either of them are cold. If so then it's either a broken cable or solenoid or switch for the ac or it could be a clogged evap core. if they don't get cold it could be a siezed compressor or a freon leak somewhere.

hope this helps

Much! Thanks ;]

[mr eff]

it sounds like most of what you're describing is normal behavior for cars in general and especially our older ones.

you can adjust the valves, what made you think that this was necessary? is the rocker arm ASSEMBLY loose, or is there valve chatter? if the whole assembly is loose, that's bizarre, i've never heard of that. otherwise, just adjust the valves.

dieseling can be caused by carbon deposits that get heated after running a while. they then continue to cause ignition even after the car has been shut off. i guess you could try a good quality fuel system cleaner... there's probably other ways to clear it out too. it can also be mistimed spark, bad spark, bad ignition timing: any number of things.

the door chime's probably tied to a fuse, check the ones behind the coin box; i don't know for certain.

fixing the AC is going to be a headache. usually when you replace something, like the compressor, the 17 year old hoses can't handle the pressure and they crack. or the condensor/evaporator fails, or the seals are worn and leaking... it's never straight forward, so expect to replace pretty much every aspect of the AC system if you really want it to work again.

cruise control is tied to the EGR somehow, if i'm not mistaken. there's also the toggle switch on the dash, so you have to make sure that's working too (can't just use the steering wheel controls). could be lots of things

good luck

other than those two things you're describing normal carb antics. generally you have to pump (prime) the carb before starting it. carbs will idle high until the car's warm.

[AccordEpicenter]

if you want the ding back, take your fist, sit in the drivers seat, then reach under the steering column and hit it right on the panel between the pedals and the steering column. Somtimes that brings them back. Always shift into first before shifting into reverse, first is semi syncronized, reverse is not. If the cruise doesnt work... Does your horn work? If you wanna move the steering wheel, pull the knob out (down) then pull it to unlock the tilt mechanism and push it back to lock it again... i think thats how it works. The clock is supposed to dim when you turn your lights on, its designed that way.

[5spdaccordlxi]

1988 Honda Accord LX-- Carb.
Hell bent on making this car last.

It's my first car, i've gotten very attached, if I had the money i'd keep it forever replacing whatever along the way (who knows).

Overview:

-Idles high when I first start it up (typical, so i'm told)--I just tap the gas and it goes down.
-After I run it for 5 minutes it begins to idle REAL low, below 1,000 RPM, almost at 0 (If that makes any sense)--Is that normal?

Things i'm really concerned about:

-Sometimes it makes a squealing noise (drive belts I think?), but it only happens occasionally. Was told the belt was starting to develop a small crack in it and needed to be replaced--That's what i'm doing first.
-Rocker arms (camshaft) under the valve cover seem to be loose, someone told me to just get a new one, and that shops rarely adjust them?
-When I turn the car off (occasionally) it seems as though the engine continues to run, and shakes (clunks?) off.
-Just replaced the front brakes and calipers, was going to do the rotors but didn't have time and NEEDED the car--Will be replacing the rotors shortly...Brakes are still making a high pitch squeal occasionally... Haven't been able to check the back brakes, and the front brakes were def. due for a brake change (so I replaced them immediently)--Ideas for why I still have the squeal?
-Shifter knob turns 25% more to the right than it should, meaning the 12345 is facing towards the doors, it's crooked, the casing turns with it, and it's almost like tangled--It's not really a problem, just rather annoying?
-AC doesn't work--I know I have to have someone else check that out, but any tests I could run to get a potential reason before I take it in?
-Sometimes makes grinding sound when I try to put it in reverse (clutch pushed all the way in), fingers messed up maybe?
-Usually I have to pump the gas a little to get the car to start when it sits overnight, typical? It's worse if it's cold out.

Minor problems:

-Steering wheel doesn't move up and down, there's a little knob you can pull out, below it, i'm assuming that would adjust it, but I guess it might be jammed or something because it won't budge.
-When my lights are still on, after I turn off the car it doesn't "DING" at me anymore, I ended up leaving my lights on one night (I was f-ing tired) cause I usually rely on the annoying "DING" to remind me.
-Clock light dims dramatically when I turn on my headlights...Normal?
-Cruise control doesn't work.

I think that's it?

So far i've already fixed the oil leak I had (valve gasket cover), replaced the battery, brakes, calipers, tires, fluids, flushed and filled the radiator, replaced the sparkplugs, and wires, getting ready to put some more work into it, was just wondering if there is anything I posted that I should be REALLY concerned about that I should take care of first?
It drives real smooth, I get really awesome gas mileage, can't hear any noise unless I'm at a stop light, I can hear the car running, and occasionally a slight squealling from the belts.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry so long!

For the low idle after its warmed up, there is a small idle adjustment screw ( i know it is on the FI cars not sure about carbs) on the throttle body, turn this until the idle is where you want it. For the valve tap you can adjust the valve clearances to the correct specs and see if that helps. For the grind when you put it in reverse, if you put in the clutch and wait for a good 5 seconds then put it in gear, it wont grind at all- it grinds because the transmission is spinning in nuetral and if you disengage the clutch and quick put it in reverse, the idle shaft is still spinning and you are pushing the reverse gear into it and grinding them together. waiting a few seconds allows the transmission to stop spinning so the gears can mesh together. Your car not starting up right away especailly in cold weather is a good indicator that you battery is old and in need of replacement. when batteries get old, they dont hold a charge as well when it is cold and things as simple as your cd player keeping memory can drain your battery. your belts may be a little loose due to worn buchings in the belt tensioner ect. Squealing brakes is normal in most cases, you can get some kinda stuff to spray on the pads that helps stop the squeal- unless its beacuse your rotors are grooved and it is worse than i think.

[ICEMAN707]

steering - your tilt steering knob doesn't just have to be pulled out, you need to push it down as well. it swings down and that releases the steering column for adjustment.

belts - either worn belt or oil leak from engine getting oil on the belts. clean/degrease the engine and check for leaks. fix the leaks and keep the engine clean/degreased each month.

brakes - brake pads or rear drum shoes are worn and the rotors/drum surfaces are touching the, as i call it, "squeal blades" on the caliper/shoes. these blades make that annoying squeal sound telling you the pads/shoes are worn.

idle/dieseling problem - im not familiar with carb 3geez, but it's a usual high-mileage carb'ed 3gee problem. with the engine running, take some time and clean all the carbon deposits from your carb. rev the engine and get cans of carb cleaner and spray as much as you can till you are satisfied the carb is completely clean. if that doesn't work, you might need a new or rebuilt carb. add some fuel system cleaner in your tank and change the fuel filter as well. change your air filter too.

lights dimming - it's normal for the interior lights to dim a bit when you turn your headlights on. it's a safety feature to keep you from getting distracted when driving at night.

valve noise - you can have the valves adjusted. make sure the engine is completely cold when you do this or have this done though.

[A20A1]

The slipping belt could be affecting the alternator output... I hope it's just the belt and not a bearing about to go... like in the water pump or alt.

Careful when you put a new belt on, too tight and you'll put added stress on the bearings and wear them out faster.

[FyreDaug]

dieseling can be caused by carbon deposits that get heated after running a while. they then continue to cause ignition even after the car has been shut off. i guess you could try a good quality fuel system cleaner... there's probably other ways to clear it out too. it can also be mistimed spark, bad spark, bad ignition timing: any number of things.

Also check your timing. (Could be too much advanced)

[POS carb]

Idles high when I first start it up (typical, so i'm told)--I just tap the gas and it goes down. This can be adjusted by a small phillips screw on the rear of the throttle bracket, it has a dab of yellow paint on the head of the screw. turn it out 2 or 3 turns
-After I run it for 5 minutes it begins to idle REAL low, below 1,000 RPM, almost at 0 (If that makes any sense)--Is that normal? Turn up the idle control screw, it's at the bottom front of the throttle bracket, a phillips screw inside a spring (see carburetor how to)

Things i'm really concerned about:

-Sometimes it makes a squealing noise (drive belts I think?), but it only happens occasionally. Was told the belt was starting to develop a small crack in it and needed to be replaced--That's what i'm doing first.
all belts have a tightening ajustment, the alternator and water pump is adjusted behind the alternator. The A/C is at the bottom of the compressor (access from under the car in the front) and the power steering is by loosening the pump and rocking it back) the timing belt doesn't squeal, it jumps or breaks... you can still tighten it though, above the crank pulley.
-Rocker arms (camshaft) under the valve cover seem to be loose, someone told me to just get a new one, and that shops rarely adjust them?
Yes they can be tightened. Get a feeler gauge or tell a mechanic you want "the valve lash set" on your valves, it's an easy job, 15-20 min. If the rockers are really loose (doubt it) like the guides are worn then yea it is probably easier to replace the assembly, get it from a junkyard car.
-When I turn the car off (occasionally) it seems as though the engine continues to run, and shakes (clunks?) off.
check for vacuum leaks, excessive idle speed, abnormally hot engine
-Just replaced the front brakes and calipers, was going to do the rotors but didn't have time and NEEDED the car--Will be replacing the rotors shortly...Brakes are still making a high pitch squeal occasionally... Haven't been able to check the back brakes, and the front brakes were def. due for a brake change (so I replaced them immediently)--Ideas for why I still have the squeal?
brake dust. clean it out or get some anti-squeal spray or get some ceramic brake pads
-Shifter knob turns 25% more to the right than it should, meaning the 12345 is facing towards the doors, it's crooked, the casing turns with it, and it's almost like tangled--It's not really a problem, just rather annoying?
unscrew it and glue it where you want it. use something like a small ammount of superglue so it holds strong but can be broken if you want to remove it later
-AC doesn't work--I know I have to have someone else check that out, but any tests I could run to get a potential reason before I take it in?
push the low pressure line valve with a pen, if there's pressure that's a good start. If vely little air pressure your system has a leak, have the shop do a leakdown test and when they fill the system they can put in an ultraviolet dye and use it to look for leaks. The A/C compressor has a bypass switch on the driver side fender (behind the headlight motor) that will not let power get to the compressor clutch if there is insuficcient line pressure. Jump this and check for 12v + to chassis ground at the compressor wire. If there is 12v at the wire make sure the clutch ground wire isn't broken, it connects to a screw on the compressor housing. If it's not the gas or compressor clutch it's the switch inside or fuse.
-Sometimes makes grinding sound when I try to put it in reverse (clutch pushed all the way in), fingers messed up maybe?
Can't get rid of it on mine either, I think it's like the clutch isn't disengaging properly... Put the car in 2nd before shifting to reverse, don't shift to reverse while moving, the reverse gear teeth aren't directional.
-Usually I have to pump the gas a little to get the car to start when it sits overnight, typical? It's worse if it's cold out.
Typical for a carbureted car. Pressing the gas once is enough to close the choke, extra pumps just richen the mixture. Vacuum leaks can cause the need for you to do this and can also cause the dieseling you mentioned above as well as erratic idle speeds.

Minor problems:

-Steering wheel doesn't move up and down, there's a little knob you can pull out, below it, i'm assuming that would adjust it, but I guess it might be jammed or something because it won't budge.

Pull it out to make it longer, then press down like a lever


-When my lights are still on, after I turn off the car it doesn't "DING" at me anymore, I ended up leaving my lights on one night (I was f-ing tired) cause I usually rely on the annoying "DING" to remind me.
theres a box mounted to the plastic plate under the steering wheel, it should get a flashing 12v. If the wire has pulsiong 12 v trhen the ringer is probably bad

-Clock light dims dramatically when I turn on my headlights...Normal?
YES

-Cruise control doesn't work.
Fuse probably.

I think that's it?

So far i've already fixed the oil leak I had (valve gasket cover), replaced the battery, brakes, calipers, tires, fluids, flushed and filled the radiator, replaced the sparkplugs, and wires, getting ready to put some more work into it, was just wondering if there is anything I posted that I should be REALLY concerned about that I should take care of first?