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Thread: Siezed pinch fork to lower arm bolts...

  1. #1

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    Siezed pinch fork to lower arm bolts...

    So im trying to get the suspension out of my old car, so that I dont have to spend another 250 for new springs... and the rears came out fine, but in the front, the bolts that hold the pinch fork to the lower arm are siezed real good, and I'm running out of ideas.

    Hell, I drenched them in wd40 like 10 times, and had both my feet pushing against the car, while pulling towards me with a big ass pry bar type thing./



  2. #2

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    yeah, they sieze up really good. i've had several that were siezed on me. i had to take the cv joint apart to take it out, then had to get a new pinch fork and lower control arm from the junk yard to put back on. i also have a siezed lower control arm to frame bolt, that i need to cut, but haven't done so yet since i'm not entirely sure how to go about it.
    Greg

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    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  3. #3

    Vinny's Avatar
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    WD40 sucks and its not a penetrating lubricant/oil. Try PB Blaster, marvel mystery oil, aerokroil, Penetro 90, or seafoam deep creep. You might want to pick up a benezine or propane torch to heat it the spray it down afterwards with something a lil better then WD40

    Another option is to heat it up with a torch and when it gets good and hot put a candle on the blot. The wax will penetrate down and help the bolt side

  4. #4

    HostileJava's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinny
    WD40 sucks and its not a penetrating lubricant/oil. Try PB Blaster, marvel mystery oil, aerokroil, Penetro 90, or seafoam deep creep. You might want to pick up a benezine or propane torch to heat it the spray it down afterwards with something a lil better then WD40

    Another option is to heat it up with a torch and when it gets good and hot put a candle on the blot. The wax will penetrate down and help the bolt side

    Haha you said penetrate .

    I've got the same problem and eventually I plan on going at it with a large hammer and pick, until then I've just been taking the CV joint apart and putting it back together. That's alot of fun

  5. #5

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    well the car is going to the wreckers when im done, so if i have to do that it may not be the end of the world... hmm... im gonna go have another go.. might just take more apart.

  6. #6
    LX User truetune's Avatar
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    how unlucky you all are

    you all should put some greases on your bolts b4 you put them back in so they dont seize up really bad like so.
    my car is stock it just likes sittn lower to the ground than most cars:
    Lowes 3" CAI W/filter, hackd off mufflar, MSD Blaster 2 coil and bosch Platinum spark plugs&wires...she roars all the way to 6K

  7. #7

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    the best option here is a longer breaker bar or a cheater bar. may want to go get something stronger, too, like 3/4 inch tools.

  8. #8

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    Using 3/4 inch tools... and I was using a big breaker bar... and I didnt do my suspension last time, so i couldnt put grease on there... BLAH!

  9. #9

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    go get a long piece of pipe and use it over the breaker bar. something like 15 feet long, lol.

  10. #10

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    there isnt really room for me to have something 15' long or i would... trust me

  11. #11
    SEi User 3gn86lxi's Avatar
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    Think that all the chemicals and salt, i.e. RUST. Have something to do with it, with you living in Canada. I have had mine apart ALOT lately swithcing struts and modding the pinchfork and all.
    Good luck, start cutting bolts.
    http://members.cardomain.com/3gn86lxi
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  12. #12

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    try the "drop the car on it" method. same method that guys here are using for their crankshaft bolts. jack the car up, place the breaker bar and socket in a position so that the weight of the car will be transferred to the break bar when lowered, then slower let the jack down. you'll either break it loose or break the tool. if you break the tool, go invest in a drill, hehe.

  13. #13

    Vinny's Avatar
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    take a torch to it and call it done

  14. #14

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    on mine, i could get it to turn...., and tear the bushing to pieces. it generally rusts inside the bushing. on one of the ones i pulled out, i took an 8lb sledge to the bolt, and tried pounding it out. all it did was start mashing the bolt, it didn't start to come out at all. and this is using pb blaster.
    Greg

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    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  15. #15
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    i had the same problem... let me think used a breaker bar and it spun the head of the bolt right off... i was like well thats gay maybe i can tighten the other end and pull the bolt threw that way... it spun the nut right off so i was pissed... after then taking the whole lower arm off and pounding on the bolt with a hammer the whole metal sleeve came off and well i just put another one in... dont know if its the right thing to do but she only has a couple more years to live anyway...

  16. #16

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    Ya im thinking i may need yo whip out a torch.., i found an oldschool propane torch in my garage haha... maybe i'll have a go with that... stupid fuckin car, piss me off!!!

  17. #17
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    be careful with the torch and heating it, the bushing will burn fairly easily
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  18. #18

    Not like a rock's Avatar
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    I was able to eventually get a hacksaw blade between the bushing and the inside edges of the pinchfork, then cut the bolt off at both ends. then you take it out and go to town on the remaining bolt with a puch and a BFH.
    Perfection is simply a matter of replacing parts.

  19. #19

    carotman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not like a rock
    I was able to eventually get a hacksaw blade between the bushing and the inside edges of the pinchfork, then cut the bolt off at both ends. then you take it out and go to town on the remaining bolt with a puch and a BFH.
    Yup, I had to do that on my car.

    I had to replace the bushing as well (and the bolt of course)

    Once you reassemble everything, Anti-seize grease is your best friend!

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
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    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  20. #20

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    Gonna take the cut off wheel to it tonight and hopefully cut those bolts off.. what a PITA

  21. #21
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    Damnit, having the same problem, using penetrating oil, a torch, 3/4 driver, 5ft extension. Im breaking 17mm sockets and stripping the bolt and I cant get it off, same for the other side. Ive managed to burn up the bushing already too, I hope those arent expensive. Any other tips? This is a major PITA

  22. #22

    Hash_man_Se_i's Avatar
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    I still had no luck,... even tried cutting the bolt with a cuttoff wheel, didnt work so well.

    I now need to get a plasma cutter and I think i might just cut the friggin fork. Either that or cut my losses and buy some ground controls.,

  23. #23

    carotman's Avatar
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    The bolt is easy to cut. The problem is that the fork is pressed against the sleeve and the sleeve is REALLY hard to cut...

    You might try to pry the fork to make sure you reach the bolt itself and not just the sleeve.

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
    3geez member since July 12 2000

    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  24. #24
    LX User spades27's Avatar
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    try heatting it up get it red hot the smack it with a hammer a few times then heat again and a johnson bar on it might crack it free

  25. #25
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    Nothing worked for me, luckily I had a parts car, so I ripped off the whole suspension. Yay alignment time. But now I cant get the passenger ball joint to unseat from the lower control arm. They are brand new too, less than 1000km on them.

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