B18c (gsr)

[Magny]

I got a few questions. First, I already did a little bit of research on this motor.

The motor I am planning on buying comes with a hydro tranny (S80, Y80), but in order to have cable I need to swap to a S1, Y1 tranny to avoid messing with the hydros. Does anyone know if it is possible, if so, what clutch package should I get. My guess is to get the package that goes to the S1, Y1 so it can fit on there, but I dont know if it will work for the year GSR i am gettin.

Its a 94-95 GSR USDM motor rated @ 170hp ;121 tq. ; 10:1 comp. btw. I could get an LSD with it for a little more, but I wanna get cable to avoid the hydro, even though they have a conversion kit for a price. Is there such thing as a cabled LSD tranny??? I don't think there is. Oh and when I do get the motor and S1, Y1 tranny with it, does anyone know where i can get axels made for this thing??? I know it has to be done custom, but the package doesn't come with axels.

Also, the ecu it comes with is a P72, which is chippable. I did a search on this ecu, only options I have for the ecu is: Mugen, Skunk2, JUN, and RPT. Does anyone know which company would be best, or should I swap the ecu for another??? I know that the P72 for the 94-95 is OBD1, but is there any other OBD's that are better, or should I stick with it???

Where would I go about on getting a shift linkage for it??? Cause it don't come with one.

I know this is alot to ask right now but I rather ask them now before I forget. Most of the stuff I have found from searching on the site and off too, but doesn't give me the detailed info I needed to do this. Thanks anyone and everyone who can help me out on this.

(LOL i should make it into a list haha now that I look at it........ok i fixed it...........)

Right now this is just to get all my info together, then start planning on purchasing the required parts. I know i gotta get custom mounts and stuff like that done, but getting info on the motor and tranny combo and stuff related to it for right now.

The package comes with:
- Motor
- Hydraulic Tranny (S80, Y80)
- ECU (P72)
- Alternator
- Starter
- Clutch
- Flywheel
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed
- LSD tranny (Optional)


Motors that these people have an average of 35k on the motor and has a 100% start-up warranty.


I gotta start learning to ask one question at a time and follow thru lol.

[SteveDX89]

I got a few questions. First, I already did a little bit of research on this motor.

The motor I am planning on buying comes with a hydro tranny (S80, Y80), but in order to have cable I need to swap to a S1, Y1 tranny to avoid messing with the hydros. Does anyone know if it is possible, if so, what clutch package should I get. My guess is to get the package that goes to the S1, Y1 so it can fit on there, but I dont know if it will work for the year GSR i am gettin.

All B-series trannies are interchangeable. You can put a cable tranny on your motor. You can use any clutch you want. ACT is a good brand.

Its a 94-95 GSR USDM motor rated @ 170hp ;121 tq. ; 10:1 comp. btw. I could get an LSD with it for a little more, but I wanna get cable to avoid the hydro, even though they have a conversion kit for a price. Is there such thing as a cabled LSD tranny??? I don't think there is. Oh and when I do get the motor and S1, Y1 tranny with it, does anyone know where i can get axels made for this thing??? I know it has to be done custom, but the package doesn't come with axels.

There is such as a cable tranny with LSD. It's a JDM Y1 tranny. Good luck finding one tho. Custom axles will be needed.

Also, the ecu it comes with is a P72, which is chippable. I did a search on this ecu, only options I have for the ecu is: Mugen, Skunk2, JUN, and RPT. Does anyone know which company would be best, or should I swap the ecu for another??? I know that the P72 for the 94-95 is OBD1, but is there any other OBD's that are better, or should I stick with it???

You can use any ECU, you just have to make sure you have the right sensors, etc. to run that OBD. OBD 1 is best for tuning. You have more options that what you listed. Hondata is one. For self tuning, you can use Uberdate, Crome, and some others.

Where would I go about on getting a shift linkage for it??? Cause it don't come with one.

Custom.

Motors that these people have an average of 35k on the motor and has a 100% start-up warranty.

They claim this but without a cluster, you have no idea. That's what they said with my B16 and it's been nothing but problems. Take the time and extra money to rebuild your motor before putting it in. It'll save you a lot of headaches and more money down the road.

[Magny]

So if I wanted to do a LSD cable tranny I would have to go with the Y1 huh??? hmmm.................

Well anyways, anyone around the bay area know where there is a shop that does custom axels??? If so could ya tell me so I could save a ton of time NOT callin all the damn shops lol.

I was also already plannin on rebuilding the motor with resleeving and all that good crap, but now I thinkin of changin my mind and goin with an LS motor since I heard that the LS is tru 1.8 and the GSR is something like 1.75. It is cheaper for the LS but the HP and TQ goes down. From what I heard is if I wanted the same HP and TQ is to get a P&P, 3 angle valve job, and a couple of other stuff to match the price and HP & TQ of the GSR. Not only that, the LS will save me on gas and weight compared to the GSR. But this is stuff I am hearin from my friends that are HHH (Honda Hot-Heads). Help me out LOL, I can't make up my mind now..................aaarrrggghhh!!!

[SteveDX89]

GSR is 1797 cc and the LS is 1834 cc. Both are close enough. LS is cheaper yes but only hp is lower. LS has more torque than a GSR available at lower RPM. You could probably reach a stock GSR with some good head work, cams, and tuning. You might not and might have to bump compression, etc. Not sure where you get an LS will save on gas and weight. It's the same thing. It really depends on what you want. Do you a high rpm screamer that's got decent power out of the box or do you want something that maxes out at 6500 rpm that needs some coaxing to make decent numbers?

[Magny]

WHich one maxes out at 6500??? wouldn't it be fixed with a chipped ecu??? Not only that, the LS is non-Vtec huh lol, I just looked it up. The LS comes with the P75 ecu which is chippable but its Non-Vtec. Hmmmm.............now its gettin even harder to decide lol. WHich would be better straight out of the box, support wise. I mean addling a few things and getting high numbers out of it??? Not only that, but also less of a headache to deal with???

[Magny]

OK you know what really sucks now...................I can't make up my mind lol. I looked at the B16A and from the ecu site i found, that motor can go to 10k rpms?!?!?! what gotta resleave it and crap like that??? The motor is hella cheaper than the LS and GSR but I want something that will do me good. and have good aftermarket support. something that will have a good end result and not such a huge hedache. Oh yeah, if I got a JDM motor, would I have to go to state rep and shit like that just to get it to be legal, and also would it beable to be smoggable here in the US???

*EDIT* sorry, forgot to say that the B16A I'm lookin at is a 88-91

[FyreDaug]

I doubt any jdm motors will be smoggable without some enviro mods, but dont quote me on that. I dont even know that the jdm motors come with smog control at all

[SteveDX89]

You probably won't be able to smog your car with any kind of swap. I think you're gonna be stuck with an A20. I caught hell last year for not having an EGR valve and had to pay someone to just give me a sticker. I'm sure in more emissions controlled state, it would be much worse.

[Project-LXi]

If you want to do a n/a b series swap you want a y1 transmission. I noticed that you live in cali, Attarco is a great way of finding a cheap jdm y1, which comes with a factory lsd. If they dont have one, they are readily available on ebay for a little extra cash. Click Here.

As far as your shift linkage is concerned, you will need one from your car, or a donor car. You will NOT need the gsr or civic counterpart, all you have to do is send your shift linkage into Place Racing , and they will custom fab you the one you need. This is also true for your wiring harness, except you will need both harnesses. The axles and mounts you need dont require a core however, and are also available from them.

As far as the power question and which engine is better: take into consideration the numbers and wieght of the vehicles they are made for. A civic Si / SiR wieghs a lot less than a 3rd gen accord. On the other hand, the LIGHTEST 3rd gen gsr (hatch) wieghs the same as the HEAVIEST 3rd gen accord (LX-i sedan). This makes a lot more sence imo. The only reason I could see for doing the b16, is cost. The average price of a b16 is about $1600, whereas the average price of a b18c/1 is about $3000. For the extra money saved, you could buy a lot of mods. Currently however, and this is a rare and beautiful thing indeed, attarco is selling a jdm b18c for $1800! I doubt however, that this is a complete swap. Another option would be to do an LS/VTEC swap. I wont go into detail about how its done, but there are several comprehensive guides on how to do this available on the internet or in publictions.

I will stick by my advice that by far the best swap for a 3rd gen accord is the b18c/1. Makes more power than either of the other 2 options, and does it at lower rpms; this is a good thing esp for daily driving, reving it to 8k just to go to the grocery store would get old fast.

Hope this helps, and good luck with your swap!

[ICEMAN707]

Sorry but Placeracing has been out of business for a long time. Your only hope is to do your own custom work or see if Hasport can make kits for 3geez. Their contact info is in their website on Hasport.com. Call them and see if they can make a kit for 3geez.

As far as engines go for daily driving. Torque is your friend. The highest speed limit in the US is 70 mph anyways. For a daily driven car, it's better to have the torque to pull you up to speed faster. I'd rather have a car with a quick 0-60 time than top speed. That's good enough to scare off some wannabe ricers/domestics out there. For that, you need an engine with the biggest liter (or closest like 1.8L), AND lightened components like flywheel, crank, crank pulleys, and accessory pulleys. Either stick with the A20 and build it with turbo, or go b20/vtec or 1.8 LS/vtec, or built 1.8 LS/B20b/z bottom end and turbo for top end. The b-series has more potential if you really wanna go hardcore racing, but if you just want a fast daily driver the a20 is the easiest on the budget and stress. A built, turbo'ed one with light flywheel and crank and forged internals can be a very devastating package for the street.

The only hard part would be engine management since the stock ECU isnt chippable and it's OBD-0. Rob mentioned before that AEM now makes an EMS for OBD-0 cars. Although very expensive, that would be a good route without having to convert to OBD-1.

[SteveDX89]

Who races to 60 mph and stops?

[shepherd79]

what that guy will find later, is that he will have all kinds of problems with emission control since he lives in Cali.
stick with your engine and build turbo setup. for the money you will spend on the swap, you can have very nice and fast turbo accord.

[ICEMAN707]

Who races to 60 mph and stops?

i do it all the time. i only speed up to the speed limit. i'd hate to be caught speeding and get my license revoked. anyways, well i'm just saying from a daily driving standpoint, not racing. it's pretty obvious a car with a quick 0-60 can reach top speed from a roll pretty quick too. besides, racing stoplight to stoplight you never really reach top speed anyways.

[3G Jester]

you could always do a RWD v6 accord with s2k tranny
coroncho80 (maurice) has a built up turbo'd and nitrosed gsr in a 91 teg....hes in philly. get a hold of him to see waht he did. im sure hed have some pointers

[Project-LXi]

Sorry but Placeracing has been out of business for a long time. Your only hope is to do your own custom work or see if Hasport can make kits for 3geez. Their contact info is in their website on Hasport.com. Call them and see if they can make a kit for 3geez.

wow that really sucks! glad I got my stuff when I did....

[ICEMAN707]

you could always do a RWD v6 accord with s2k tranny
coroncho80 (maurice) has a built up turbo'd and nitrosed gsr in a 91 teg....hes in philly. get a hold of him to see waht he did. im sure hed have some pointers

no he has a turbo'ed ls/vtec, not gsr. it's the ls that came in his 90-93 teg with a vtec head slapped on. i think he built the bottom end, but i don't think he's sprayin' though.

[stereo]

you can smog any swap jdm or usdm here in cali the motor has to be the same year or newer and as long as all emission stuff is from the usdm counterpart..what you have to do is use the usdm computer make sure your intake if jdm has all the fittings and are mounted in the same spot as usdm , etc . then the car get inspected at a referee station if you pass the inspection they will issue a b.a.r sticker with all the swap info on it then from then on you can take the car to any smog station and they just get the info off that sticker and do the test.

[Accordtheory]

if you're going to stay NA, why don't you drop in a B20, get it refereed, then drop on a vtec head.. over 200hp easy. A turbo accord will never be smog legal, those assholes are trying to charge me an $880 fine, and I Still have to show proof of correction! Now I'm building an ls with a gsr crank, eagle rods, endyn pistons, skunk2 intake, my same turbo, I don't know what cams yet, 740cc injectors, etc. However, the car will have to be refereed and smogged before I drop the turbosystem on. FUCK california..anyone know about smog laws in oregon?

[Busted_Blue]

if you're going to stay NA, why don't you drop in a B20, get it refereed, then drop on a vtec head.. over 200hp easy. A turbo accord will never be smog legal, those assholes are trying to charge me an $880 fine, and I Still have to show proof of correction! Now I'm building an ls with a gsr crank, eagle rods, endyn pistons, skunk2 intake, my same turbo, I don't know what cams yet, 740cc injectors, etc. However, the car will have to be refereed and smogged before I drop the turbosystem on. FUCK california..anyone know about smog laws in oregon?

a b20 is not legal in the state of california. The law states that the engine must be from a similar class car ie. if you get civic motor it must be from a car class. CRV is classified as a light truck and is in a differetn class.

[A20A1]

Why not keep two motors... swap in the stock emissions legal motor when you do the test and then swap in whatever you want afterwards.

[Busted_Blue]

Why not keep two motors... swap in the stock emissions legal motor when you do the test and then swap in whatever you want afterwards.

every 2 years we get inspection, as well as cops sometimes run state ref tickets for mufflers or what not on our cars and that will force us to swap motors again? its alot of trouble. =P

[snow_man_20]

..anyone know about smog laws in oregon?

only portland has smog laws as far as i know that's the only city. lol, no smog laws for me.

[SteveDX89]

you can smog any swap jdm or usdm here in cali the motor has to be the same year or newer and as long as all emission stuff is from the usdm counterpart..what you have to do is use the usdm computer make sure your intake if jdm has all the fittings and are mounted in the same spot as usdm , etc . then the car get inspected at a referee station if you pass the inspection they will issue a b.a.r sticker with all the swap info on it then from then on you can take the car to any smog station and they just get the info off that sticker and do the test.

Do you still have to have an EGR? B-series motors don't have EGR's and I got burned last year on emissions because of it.

[buds302]

accordtheory dude ive been tryin to get ahold of you check your pm's!!!!!