Well it's about time for my first tune up... what are some of the brands you all use as far as a air filter (other than fram) spark plugs, dist. cap.. etc. I figure if i am not going to be changing these often i might as well put high quality in it.
Well it's about time for my first tune up... what are some of the brands you all use as far as a air filter (other than fram) spark plugs, dist. cap.. etc. I figure if i am not going to be changing these often i might as well put high quality in it.
Silv'
If your not going for performance just go to O'Reillys and get their brand or ACDelco.They're pretty good.
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Typically if you want "high quality" stuff, just look for the higher price tag. Not neccesarily quality, but brand name I suppose. The higher price stuff is usually better, but its hard to test everything.
yeah I would agree w/ you FyreDaug!
For Sale:
T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
P75 ECU
Untouched Head
Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone
Misc.
DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
PS1
NES
Needed:
Dremel
Money
well... i have used several different spark plugs... ac delco is junk. i find the bosch platinum +4 to be the best plugs...
as far as the air filter goes, anything k&n is always good. i don't think they make one for the stock airbox, but you can get cone type for a cold air or short ram intake. they are pricy, but also washable and reusable.
for your distributor cap and rotor, nobody makes aftermarket. probably the best is gonna be honda parts from the dealership. performance wise your not gonna see any difference between honda cap and rotor and your basic autoparts store... just don't ever buy anything from kragen
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
Well first off like the others said, K&N is the best way to go for air filter. Its around 50 bucks at autozone and i think they carry one that will fit into the stock. As far as spark plugs go for NGK, they run fine for me and most other imports. Cap and rotor button, nothing really special about those, just any one that you can pick up... Wireset, i would use a Bosch wireset. Oil filter use Bosch or K&N makes a oil filter alsoYou can check out alot of prices for items on autopart stores websites, like autozone.com or advanceautoparts.com
"I contend that we are both atheists. I just believe in one fewer god than you do. When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours."
I think the +4's are a scam. The electricity will take the shortest path anyways. They might be more durable if the shortest path gets dirty it can take the next shortest. I dunno, I wouldnt buy them myself. I have NGK plats and they are fine. Probably didnt need plats thoughi find the bosch platinum +4 to be the best plugs...
expensive doesn't mean better.
this is what i recomend:
spark plugs: NGK (they are stock on all honda)
spark plug wires: NGK (best thing you can get).
Distributor cap: OEM honda ( after market ones can give you uneven idle).
Distributor rotor: OEM honda (as stated above)
motor oil: mobil (that is what honda uses, look at honda motor oil can and you will see mobil logo).
oil filter: I use mobil oil filter. (it is more expensive but it gives me good feeling about it. I just don't trust FRAM).
anything else you can get at autoparts stores.
PS. check your PVC valve.
Alex.
um... yeah, i've had ngk plugs and wires. i was not impressed. the plugs are just basic quality, and the wires aren't very good at all, same as the cheap sets from autozone... get yourself some msd wires, it's like $70, but it is guaranteed for five years, and it should pretty much last forever.Originally Posted by shepherd79
i would definitely go with the oem honda cap and rotor
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
i've run them disconnected from the engine and grounded. the spark actually does go to all four electrodes... and we had a spark plug demonstration in my auto classes, they really do work well
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
The synthetic kind or what. 10W-30? What is something i can continue to put in my car months after months? I have a problem with wanting to put in synth, but then tryin to go back to real stuff later. Nowadays i put in castrol high mileage, but been thinking about mobil 7500 or something. Let me know
Silv'
any synthetic is good for about 6000miles. Conventional I go for maybe 5000. its not a race car (normally) so oil life should be decent
stop! wait a minute.... ok... i know mobil says you can go 7500 miles with their oil...
if you know anything about oil, you would know that the reason we change our oil, is because it gets dirty.... oil does not break down in any way inside your engine. if we had more efficient filtration systems, we may never need to change oil. but we don't, that's why we have to change oil, it just gets saturated with filth. an oil cannot magically remove dirt from itself, therefore, no matter what oil you use, the change interval does not change. all these new oil change interval extending oils are bulls**t.
oh, and as for the mobil logo on the honda motor oil. honda has it's own formulation of oil. mobil is just the refinery that honda has it's oil processed through. the standard mobil on the shelf at auto parts stores is not the same as honda oils.
anyway, any decent up to date mechanic will tell you that synthetic is always the way to go. and they will also tell you that one of the best motor oils is valvoline synthetic.
Last edited by modu03; 07-22-2005 at 01:17 AM.
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
3000 miles... follow the intervals that honda has laid out. 6000 miles between changes is not good for your car, no matter what oil you use or how you drive it.
yeah... i'm bein a post whore
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
the honda oil is the same shit you will find on the shelfs in autoparts stores.
i can't believe people believe that dealer oils are better.
if you have engine with over 75000 miles on it, don't put synthetic oil in there. it will screw the engine up fast. i did that on my car by thinking i can improve it. next thing i know my engine started to smoke. regular oil will do just fine. that is what honda manual says.
oh and for the NGK spark plugs and wires, i had them for over 4 years and they still work fine. I had Crane cams wires and i didn't see any diff except in size and color.
Alex.
oh god... look, i didn't say that the dealer oils are better, i just explained why there is a mobil symbol on the honda oils. probably the best oil to use is valvoline full synthetic.
something else went wrong with your car. there is no reason that you shouldn't put synthetic oils in your car. they are much better oils. i started using synthetic oils in my car after 205,000 miles... it seemed to idle smoother and it didn't get dirty as quickly as conventional oils... synthetic oils don't bond as easily to dirt, so the filter is more able to filter out the dirt. which does make it more important to change your filter on time.
ask any auto engineer whether it is safe to use synthetics in an old car and they will tell you that it would actually be better for your car than conventional. however, in an old gm vehicle it will cause it to eat a little bit of oil because the synthetics are smaller molecules. since there is no exhaust valve stem oil seal and gm built the engine to control the larger conventional oil moleculs from leaking too much. the smaller molecules slip by faster.
Last edited by modu03; 07-23-2005 at 12:57 PM.
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
synthetic is nice but not nessecery. ONLY USE NGK PLUGS IN A HONDA VEHICLE....ALWAYS!!!!
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Standard
NGK
Honda
Puralator oil filter ( the oversizes one)
That should cover it.
Also I always keep my last set of tune-up stuff I change that way if you have a problem you can swap a cap or a coil or what ever since you kinda figure the car was running with the old parts.
wp
What spark durration were you getting / using?
- llia
Sorry, I was reading miles and I meant to say KM. I go 6000km on my synthetics.3000 miles... follow the intervals that honda has laid out. 6000 miles between changes is not good for your car, no matter what oil you use or how you drive it.
yeah... i'm bein a post whore
well... i was just running one grounded out to the engine to see if it sparked to all four points... so i really couldn't tell you that.
by the way, these engines actually run pretty good on only three cylinders
87 hatch (stolen)
88 lxi 4dr, 5spd, threw a rod... in process of swapping engine from my 87 hatch (police recovered what was left of the car).
the fucker that sold me the 88 is lucky he lives 500 miles from me...
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