Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: unsteady idle

  1. #1
    SEi User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,396

    unsteady idle

    Hi Guy's still having problems with my UKDM B20A, i've just gone through everything with a fine tooth come, i changed all the vac hoses with new silicone ones all with a nice tight fit, no ECU codes, modified the TB a little with knife edged outer mouth, knife edged the throttle plate, and put in countersunk screws into the spindle and ground flat onto the spindle. now i've disconnected the fast idle valve selaed it off with some thick card between the manifold and the valve, i also tried disconnecting the IAT, and also the anti stall device is disconnected too as well as the Air con control valve on the side of the inlet manifold. But i'm still getting the engine idling unsteady it just wobbles and stumbles at around 800-1000rpm, and sometimes if you rev it hard for a few seconds it stumbles under 700rpm and then stalls??
    Any ideas as this is starting to do my head in now!! Just thinking of ditching the whole thing and putting carbs on or a custom ECU.
    UK version only has TPS, IAT, WTS, Map sensor, no O2 sensor or EGR valve in the exhaust manifold.
    Thanks Rich.



  2. #2


    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Vehicle
    88 LXi
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    5,211
    Quote Originally Posted by rjudgey
    Hi Guy's still having problems with my UKDM B20A, i've just gone through everything with a fine tooth come, i changed all the vac hoses with new silicone ones all with a nice tight fit, no ECU codes, modified the TB a little with knife edged outer mouth, knife edged the throttle plate, and put in countersunk screws into the spindle and ground flat onto the spindle. now i've disconnected the fast idle valve selaed it off with some thick card between the manifold and the valve, i also tried disconnecting the IAT, and also the anti stall device is disconnected too as well as the Air con control valve on the side of the inlet manifold. But i'm still getting the engine idling unsteady it just wobbles and stumbles at around 800-1000rpm, and sometimes if you rev it hard for a few seconds it stumbles under 700rpm and then stalls??
    Any ideas as this is starting to do my head in now!! Just thinking of ditching the whole thing and putting carbs on or a custom ECU.
    UK version only has TPS, IAT, WTS, Map sensor, no O2 sensor or EGR valve in the exhaust manifold.
    Thanks Rich.

    dont know how you could check this but maybe the TB blades is letting a little air slip thru since its been worked on.

    is your reading on the TB within specs?


    wp

  3. #3

    carotman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Vehicle
    89 Accord LX/B20A | 87 Accord Hatch "S" Stock | 94 Civic Hatch CX
    Location
    Montreal South Shore
    Posts
    9,984
    Yeah the TB might be the problem. I messed up with mine and I'm having the same kind of problem as you describe (to a smaller extend).

    Try a different TB and see if the problem goes away.

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
    3geez member since July 12 2000

    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  4. #4
    SEi User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,396

    Tb

    Oops sorry forgot to mention i tried two other TB's as well and still having the same problem!!
    Could it be maybe one of those vac valves? I'm going to try plugging all the vac hoses that go into the control box and unplug it from the ECU, plus disconnect all the sensors and see if it idles steady will it still work with all of this disconnected and then i'll try re-connecting them one at a time to see what upsets it!! Will that work??

  5. #5

    A20A1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Vehicle
    2006 Chevy Cobalt LS
    Location
    Kaneohe, Hawaii, United States
    Posts
    88,734
    It's trying to tell you something...


    Carbs are your friend
    - llia


  6. #6
    SEi User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,396

    Carbs

    Yeah i know tell me about it, but i don't really want to be able to smell gas inside the car anymore!!! I'd like to just dump ITB's in with custom ECU but their's next to no room for a crank trigger and sensor and that the small fact that it would cost around $2500-3000 to do properly, which does make carbs look even better but Weber just can't make carbs that don't make the car smell of gas!!
    Just another thought could the bad idle be down to worn injectors? these ones have done 121K miles now? But they have been serviced by previous owner couple of times but last time was 6 years ago.

  7. #7

    Blkblurr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Vehicle
    2004 Pilot EXL-NAV, 2010 Acura TL, 2013 Accord Coupe V6 Nav/Sat
    Location
    Dayton, Ohio
    Posts
    1,259
    My injectors lasted for 228,000 miles and never serviced. I replaced them because they were leaking gas.

  8. #8


    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Vehicle
    88 LXi
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    5,211
    Quote Originally Posted by Blkblurr
    My injectors lasted for 228,000 miles and never serviced. I replaced them because they were leaking gas.

    mine too i got 260K but if somebody had serviced them maybe there leaking internally but i dunno how you could tell really.
    Sure the TPS (the sensor) is set right. I think its .5 v at idle and 4.5-4.8 WOT just a guess.

    wp

  9. #9

    A20A1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Vehicle
    2006 Chevy Cobalt LS
    Location
    Kaneohe, Hawaii, United States
    Posts
    88,734
    why not build an enclosure and run a cold air pickup to the bumper, it should limit the gas smell.
    - llia


  10. #10
    LX User Civvy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Vehicle
    18 yr old Prelude, the one with the pop up headlamps. B20 (prototype for the 3g Prelude) ...but in the lighter car, with big brakes
    Location
    Pommieland
    Posts
    389
    yea theres a company called Reverie, they do carbon fibre airboxes for anything including twin DCOE's then you run a CAI to the front as if you were fuel injected.
    I wonder if the valves arnt closing properly? or you got a cracked head?
    You didnt over tighten the valve clearances?

Similar Threads

  1. Stalling when I use brakes, unsteady idle.
    By yoyodude101 in forum Carburetor Tech
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 12-13-2011, 12:28 PM
  2. Replies: 18
    Last Post: 11-03-2009, 05:42 PM
  3. Weber Carb - cold idle fine, warm idle too high - help?
    By it's paid for in forum Carburetor Tech
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-21-2004, 09:11 PM
  4. is there a way to lower my fast idle, but keep warm idle the same?
    By bobafett in forum Classic Honda Community Chat
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-20-2003, 05:44 AM
  5. IdLe, iDle, IDLLLLLLLLLeeee? ? ???? ?
    By LX-biker in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 12-28-2002, 08:55 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
This website uses cookies
We use cookies to store session information to facilitate remembering your login information, to allow you to save website preferences, to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners.
     
Links monetized by VigLink