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Thread: Looking for 150hp

  1. #1
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    Looking for 150hp

    I have a 89 Accord LX carb motor and wanted to know how to get 150hp(crank) with bolt ons. I have pacesetter exhaust/headers, I took the bracket inside the intake that restricts air flow to the carb(6hp gain on G-tech).

    planning on custom pipe for cat. converter, and carb upgrade weber 38/38 maybe???
    also blaster coil,ignition

    I don't want to go all out and have a ricer, just something sporty and cheap.

    Do you think I can get 150hp out of my accord for under a $1000



  2. #2

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    weber 32/36 would probably be a better choice for you. DCOE would be the ultimate for this car, but a bit price prohibitive.

    you'll need a bigger fuel pump for the weber.

    a cam regrind will help a good bit.

    there's TONS more stuff you can do. a quick search will be a huge help for you.

    good luck.

  3. #3
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    Thats my problem, which carb should I use? I want a basic installation, I looked at the threads on cfm's and 38's 40's 45's

  4. #4
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    what hp gain would I get on the carb 32/36--38's--40's--45's and a cam?

  5. #5

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    yeah, and if you rebuild, do yourself the favor and port and polish your head, and go wtih a 5 angle valve job.

  6. #6
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    that's way beyond $1000. for $1000, you can get the weber 32/36, a cam regrind, make a header if you're adventurous and have access to a mig welder (with some j bends, and other stuff, do a quick search), exhaust, and with the newfound RPM range 4500-7500 power will probably find you close to your 150hp mark... I'd say you can make 130 or 140 with only that much done.

    If you're rebuilding, unless you really know what you're doing, it's worth going to a machine shop for.. until you change the nature of your head ports, valves, and other such more complicated endeavors, those bolt ons should get you close to where you want to be..

  7. #7

    Justin86's Avatar
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    good luck keeping it under 2K to make that power, saying you do most of the fab work. You might want to look in to some of the cars that race in SOLO I/SOLO II. They have 1.6L carbed engines putting down 170-200hp
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  8. #8

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    DCOEs, cam, header and exhaust should run about $1200 or so.

  9. #9

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    if he does all the work himself and looks around for deals, I am sure he can build a nice car. I am not sure if you can get to 150hp with just bolt ons. it would be very hard to do.
    Alex.

  10. #10
    SEi User Strugglebucket's Avatar
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    he did say CRANK hp. i think it's do-able. definately gonna need a lumpy cam, though.
    Originally Posted by Justanothermike
    my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.

  11. #11

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    it's still a 51% increase in power or so.

  12. #12
    2.0Si User mykwikcoupe's Avatar
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    say start with the a20a3 block and head and do the same mods. then its not a 51% INCREASE BUT MORE A 30%

  13. #13
    SEi User Strugglebucket's Avatar
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    you guys are pretty good at math

    i would say just use the a20a3 pistons to up the compression. i don't think there'd be any advantage to buying a the whole block and head. besides, if i remember correctly the a20a1 head has a slight advantage over the a3 with stock exhaust valves.

    *edit* the '88-'89 a20a3 pistons are what you want
    Last edited by Strugglebucket; 08-22-2005 at 10:34 PM.
    Originally Posted by Justanothermike
    my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.

  14. #14

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    the blocks and heads are all the same. the manifolds, pistons, and camshafts are what makes the big difference in power.

  15. #15
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    Engines 150bhp

    Header, Exhaust System, Mild Cam, Weber DGV 38/38, pierce manifold adapter for weber, A20A1 inlet manifold, DIY clean up on manifold and Head, A20A3/4 pistons or block with shaved head max 1.5mm or go from .5mm-1mm if you want it to be serviceable next time you take it off. Fuel pressure regulator and maybe uprated pump. Should see easy 150bhp really especially if you can loose the CAT. You'll gain more power if you can put DCOE's on but will cost you a lot more as you'll need a new inlet manifold and an extra Carb.

    Just a thought but has anyone ever thought of using an injection inlet manifold and then bolting a huge HArley sidedraught carb to the side of it?? That could be interesting??

    I still think a good allround setup would be a single DCOE 50 or 55 but twin 45's sounds a lot better when you stick your foot down!!!

  16. #16
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    so the 38/38 is the easiest to install with an adaptor bracket. I have the pacesetter headers and exhaust coming next week for $500 but the $1000 is on top of that cost. MSD 6a ingnition $180, which blaster coil should I go with the MSD ss or 2 $40-50, carb depending on which one $280-400+, straight pipe the cat. $50. what intake manifold should I use with this setup?

    so I'm around $600, my engine only has 49,000 miles so I really don't want to mess with the cam or port and polish. would 130hp (crank) be more achievable with just bolt-ons

  17. #17
    LX User mr eff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewtyson
    would 130hp (crank) be more achievable with just bolt-ons
    probably still a stretch without a different cam profile
    Chris

    click the car to see my picture archives

  18. #18

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    don't waist you money on MSN ignition box, just upgrade to a new coil. the stock ignitor is fine for your setup.

    If you are going with 38/38 weber, you will need to port the stock intake manifold. Stock intake manifold is designed for 32/36 weber. If you need spare manifold, i have one that i started to port.
    Alex.

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