sweet maybe i'll do that with my carb accord for my bro
*edit* you should write a how to and parts needed
I don't think I've seen a choke on a SU carb.
Originally Posted by MessyHonda88dx
I'm sure there are other way to start fires when you get into an accident. You could even die before the fire even starts. More then likely the accident will stop the engine and turbo and cause a few leaks... its not like the turbo will keep pumping and shooting out an explosive air fuel mix.
other things like oil can catch fire also.
- llia
heh, i once saw a porsche 944 catch fire because of an oil line leak. it was right in front of my place of work. i found out i knew the guy and he was taking it to get some work done on it. sucks.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
yeah, good luck on fixing the fuel problem. i'd like to know how things go for you.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
I'm very interested as well good luck and keep me posted!
Breaking news! What has an H in it!
Cool couple of questions though
1. How is the turbo setup to the manifold? and what is that vac line from the turbo going to?
2. About this SU carb, does SU stand for anything? and can you buy a new one? will it work with my A20A1 without all the vac lines?
thanx!
Breaking news! What has an H in it!
Well all those vaccum lines will need check valves perhaps. I mean if they see vaccum, then see boost they could pop off their connections or break whatever solenoid or valve is may be connected to. So more then likely you'll ditch all of your vaccum lines that were stock except maybe the brake booster.
Basicly the route form the turbo to the intake manifold has to carry both air and fuel. Air is fine going around corners, up and down, anywhich way, but the heavier fuel will have a harder time making the same trip. So you do what you can to prevent fuel restictions and thus prevent a lean mixture problem.
You could opt to mount the turbo at the rear of the motor, and make a custom intake manifold to carry the air fuel charge to each cylinder. The turbo would be driven by an exhaust pipe that turns up after the oil pan.
Thus no need for a fancy turbo manifold, use the stock manifold and downpipe and run a custom pipe up to the turbo.
- llia
thats awsome, i actully had thought a little bit about something like this for my car, except i was going to mount the turbo inplace of the catilatic converter, but i had no clue on how the rest would work, i thought i could just run a pipe with the boost back up and have it dump off in a plate under the carb, but im guessing that wouldent work due to it needs to be mixed and ran threw the car. oh well, awsome set up though
In that image what is the black line (lower left hand corner) that is running from the turbo? and what does it go to?
Breaking news! What has an H in it!
That is the wastegate actuator line, Goes to the charge pipesOriginally Posted by 3rdgenhatchDX
Oh cool thanx
Breaking news! What has an H in it!
Hey man ive just found this post, so searched back to what you have been doing, and i can say that im gutted for ya, woulda been good to see that running eh - real kiwi ingenuity bro!
damn dude, get that shit fixed asap
a how to would be sweetOriginally Posted by theDougler
i have not seen a Hitachi SU in over a decade.
that came off a honda ?
wow, i forgot all about those.
ATF in the carb. genius.
there were duals on my old 260z.
good times, good times.
I wasn't sure if this was off topic or not. Seeing as how it's information on doing a turbo setup with a Weber carb, I thought it was pretty on topic to what people here are interested in.
Anyways, it's not all that detailed, but gives you a good start on what you'll need to turbo your car if you're running a carb. There's not much info anywhere else on a setup like this...
http://users.chartertn.net/jseabolt/yugo.htm
I love the BOV position and carb hat
- llia
That is nuts, but he should have used a non rubber line for the oil return. On a side note, that has got to be one of the only Yugo enthusiast int he world .
I have boost and a pull through 44mm sidedraft. It is on a 2275 vw motor running 9 to 1 compression. It runs on pump gas and is set at 10 psi it pulls wheelies all day and when I go drag race it at I pump up the boost to 15psi. I havn't had any problems with the carb set up at all only minor issues that were my fault.
that thing looks like it would be a blast to drive.
It is. I'm going to take it apart in a few weeks and make a tube/boxed frame for it. I'm getting a tig welder from my cousin and borroewing a tube bender from a buddy. It's gonna be budget but safer than it is now. I need a full cage it's way too fast for it's own good. I havn't had it on the scaled but it can't weigh more than 1200 pounds and it's probably got 250hp+ to the wheels. Guys running my motor N/A have 150-175 to the wheels so it's a good rough estimate.
Originally Posted by kraftaroni
i bet its gives a better trill than going to 6 flags...hahah.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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