What Now? (powervalve check failed)

[CompProb237]

I tested the Powervalve as per the Shop Manual, sure enough i have no ticking noise as it says it should have.
The shop manual says that the carb should be replaced because of this failure.

I got an 87 Accord DX, carb, auto tranny, 240k miles

the car hesitates sometimes when the i hit the gas.
it has no power after 6,500 RPMs and wont go too much faster then 110Mph on the highway.
The tranny is shot from my guess.
It slips real bad if you shift into 2nd from when the tranny is in 1st gear.
i got a very faint whinning/whurring coming from it in all gears based on actual speed and not gear speed (the whur is very noticable in 1st on a launch from a light).

What should i do?
I love the car so i want to get it running good. the interior is sun beat and so is the exterior (most notable is the paint: What ClearCoat? ). The guy i bought it from wasn't exactly car-literate (always took the car into honda and had it worked on... wiper blades?!? ) I am working on getting a camera that i can get some images of it on here. kinda sad shape, PROJECT CAR

Hey, at least i did something right, 2.25" Ceramic Coated pipes from the cat to the Muffler can. i got a flowmaster Can with a "stock" looking tip. I love the growl and I noticed the car has a lot more torque and power in all ranges, seems a lot better around 5k RPMs. Just overall stronger feeling Vs. the blown midpipe

so, what should i do? any suggestions?
I would just as easily go and pull a carb off another in the junkyard, but maybe the fuel injected conversion?
I don't really have all the tools that one would need to do that kind of job though.

Perhaps i should try to fix the carb?
I will think about the auto to manual conversion for a while, i don't exactly have $600 on hand to blow on the necessary parts, that and this is my only car and the nearest junkyard is an hour away.

if i try to fix the carb, how would i fix it and is there anything else i should check while i got it apart?

[A20A1]

The best way to see if the power valve works is remove the top hat and connect the vacuum pump in place of #14 vacuum line.

Here are some links

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5350 ( Rebuild Thread )

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44074 ( Adjusting Order )

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38108 ( Testing Carb With Air Cleaner Off )

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10902 ( More On Carb Rebuild )


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[CompProb237]

I did that, just like what the shop manual says. I know that this car is the KX model in the shop manual, did the exact test that the manual says.

"attach vacuum pump to the powervalve (hose #14). apply vacuum and listen for clicking noise from powervalve. (picture included, wasn't much help. I used the vacuum diagram on here and in the book to help me locate hose #14) (the powervalve was on the firewall side of the carb and the vacuum pump was hooked to the powervalve which is in the carb -- toward the inside of the bowl)

∙If no sound is heard, replace the carburetor and re-test"

no sound except a sucking noise. (perhaps my vacuum pump is too loud?)

what effect will the powervalve have on the performance and gas mileage? i am getting an absolutely terrible 17mpg.

I am going to do the carb rebuild soon. 240k miles and never done, time to do it.
unless of course i gotta pull one from a junkyard, i really don't want to spend $700 on a new carb. assy. on majestic honda's website.

thanks for the links and info

[A20A1]

you don't have a hand vacuum pump?

I was saying remove the top hat cause you can see the power valve opener working so you wont have to listen to it.

Anyways if the opener doesn't hold vacuum then it's constantly pressing on the power valve below it so you'll be dumping extra gas. Thats what the powervalve does, it richens the mixture.

BTW how strong is your vacuum pump? I'm just thinking you don't want to overpower a tiny valve. Normal engine vacuum is around 24" Hg

[CompProb237]

it's a small 10hg max hand vacuum pump, one pump gives about 2-2.5hg but i wasn't going to far with it, i didn't want to break anything inside. It wasn't holding ANY pressure, i can tell you that much.

I will take off the hat on thursday and take a look.

[A20A1]

Just replace the top hat... I can send you one of mine

[CompProb237]

I'm going to go to the junkyard and pull one there.

i got a laundry list a mile long for parts needed on this car.
i was going for a restore, but i might do a few things to make it look nice and match my CD deck LCD colors.

Oh, last question. Should i pull the whole carb, that is in good shape, out of one of the junkyard cars? i will test it and make sure it's good before i really try to get it out.

And thanks for all the help A20A1, i see your the carb guru on here so we may be talking a lot more in the future

[A20A1]

if you can grab the whole carb... it wont be much use to anyone else without the top hat. Plus you can rebuild it off the car which will save on downtime.