how do i prevent the flywheel from spinning while torquing it? the haynes manual gives the part number for the tool that holds it in place, but the palces i went to dont know what it is. one place i went to have it, but it didnt work like it said it would(was actually made for turning it).
if anybody knows where i can get the tool from(preferably a place in canada), or how to prevent the flywheel from turning while im torquing the bolts, it would be greatly appreciated
you need the following
1.) 12 point 17 mm socket (i think thats the right size)
2.) air gun
I used an airgun and made sure the bolt i was tightening was on the bottom, start with 1, then rotate the flywheel completely, put the next one on, so on and so forth. I didnt have any problems doing it this way, took me all of about 5 min to get it all on/tight
Im not sure what you could use if you dont have access to an airgun, but that was definatly helpfull.
i've always been able to hold it by hand and still get the required torque on them.
if you're loosening it for the first time and they're stuck, you can hold one of the bolts with a second wrench to keep it from spinning. when you get to the last bolt, tighten another bolt so you can hold it while you break the last one loose. then you should be able to get the other bolt out while holding the flywheel by hand (on the outer edge; the leverage is in your favor).
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
Tightening those bolts are a pain in the neck! The technique I used (after a whole lot of experimenting and cussing, that is), is to screw in a couple bolts across form each other, then place a flat bar between them, and wedge the end of it on something immovable. This will hold it so you can tighten the rest, then simply move the bar to two of the tightened bolts, and finish the two hand-tightened ones you started with. Hope this image works.
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
Originally Posted by Robs89LXi
Tightening those bolts are a pain in the neck! The technique I used (after a whole lot of experimenting and cussing, that is), is to screw in a couple bolts across form each other, then place a flat bar between them, and wedge the end of it on something immovable. This will hold it so you can tighten the rest, then simply move the bar to two of the tightened bolts, and finish the two hand-tightened ones you started with. Hope this image works.
if i remember correctly(its been 4 hours since i last worked on my car), the bolts are sunk in, so i cant really use that method too easily
the haynes manual had a special tool there, but so far the places i went to couldnt get a hold of one for me...
this is what i did. the bolts are in close so hold towards the outside use leverage man. Also anything other thana 3/8 drive is handy. A short 1/2 in drive but yeah its pretty simple or mine was anyway
Screw bolts into where the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. Not the center where it bolts to the crank. Or you can thread a bolt in the tranny case somewhere and then jam a screwdriver in the teeth. We're not talking about rocket science here.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
have a buddy hold the crank pulley bolt with another ratchet. problem solved.
just make sure you don't strip the bolt head.
www.stein-photo.com
born to XLR8
Like Steve said, a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth always works for me.
Mike
It sounds bad but if you don't have a handy-dandy Honda certified Ring Gear Holder (07924-PD2001) then pad something (like a tool handle) and wedge it in the crank while you torque the bolts. Make sure that you alternate torque across the bolts and do 2 torque runs...and initial at half the spec and then a second run at full spec:
Good luck and don't f*ck up your fingers or your torque wrench. DO NOT use a an impact gun...you can damage your flywheel.
Here's your specs: Flywheel Torque
Here's your pic too:
Last edited by phrenology; 09-30-2005 at 11:40 AM.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
[QUOTE=phrenology]It sounds bad but if you don't have a handy-dandy Honda certified Ring Gear Holder (07924-PD2001) then pad something (like a tool handle) and wedge it in the crank while you torque the bolts. Make sure that you alternate torque across the bolts and do 2 torque runs...and initial at half the spec and then a second run at full spec:
i asked honda about the ring gear holder, they said they dont order tools in... what if i gave them the item number? is that number a honda product number?
are they actually available at honda dealerships? or are you suppopsed to get them somewhere that sells automotive tools?
Last edited by newaccorddriver; 09-30-2005 at 08:58 PM.
anyone know where i can get that honda certified ring gear holder?
snap on maybe? I know they have the honda specific crank bolt holder thingy.
I asked about that at Honda before myself. You have to call Honda of America if I remember correctly.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
Have you tried even putting a socket on the front of the crankshaft (holding it with a ratchet) while torqing this bolt? This isn't a calculus equation.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 10-01-2005 at 06:13 AM.
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that's exactly what i was trying to say.....
www.stein-photo.com
born to XLR8
Yeah, that tool is a waste of money & the heck with all them tricks, even though all of them will work. This is too easy without wasting time & cash.that's exactly what i was trying to say.....
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 10-01-2005 at 07:23 AM. Reason: give all tricks credit
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finally torqued them all, but i only went by those bolts once, should i go through them a second time just to make sure them all torqued and not just have a few of them torqued while all of them tightened? i just did my pressure plate bolts and when i did the cross pattern 1 side got torqued and i went to the other side which wasnt torqued as much as before
If you have a torque wrench, the bolts should be tightened to 76 ft. lbs. on manual & 54 ft. lbs. on the auto. I didn't mention, it is good practice to put locktite on the bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft before torquing them.
Torque them a second time if your unsure, just don't get crazy & break the bolt off. Don't forget to alighn your clutch disk with alighnment tool before you try to put that tranny back on!
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 10-02-2005 at 05:45 AM. Reason: add on
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im only unsure cause the pressure plate bolts had to be retorqued several times before they were all properly torqued, im retorquing the flywheel bolts soon. i know locktite is a good product and such, but is it really mandantory to use it? i think honda accounted for the fact that they might lossen to a certain point over time
just do them halfway, in a star pattern, then do them all the way, same pattern.
then keep going over it until none of the bolts budge one bit when using a torque wrench (obviously). that's what i've done. you shouldn't have to ever go back in there and retighten any bolts ever, if you do it right.
same goes for the pressure plate bolts.
www.stein-photo.com
born to XLR8
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