GENERAL ADVICE for Honda tuning

[Lok]

Here some advice from one of Best US Honda tuners.
Read carefully, will help you tune right your 3geez(especialy the EFI) and save you money:

http://www.importbuilders.com/simplerulestofollow.htm

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm

[b8er]

theres some good info there

[racerx]

nice. on preludepower.com a guy tried installed CTR pistons in his B20A, and ended up burning oil like crazy. he had no idea why. at first he thought it was the rings, or he honed it wrong, but I don't think so.

there was seriously oil all over the tops of his pistons when he pulled the head off.

here's the pics: (at 1200 miles on the new motor)

[Oldblueaccord]

Here some advice from one of Best US Honda tuners.
Read carefully, will help you tune right your 3geez(especialy the EFI) and save you money:

http://www.importbuilders.com/simplerulestofollow.htm

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm

yep good info I like this guy. He makes a few misspeaks if you will.
tip its in the measurement part of what he is saying.

Best part if you check his site on head porting he's got good flow numbers. He's quoting a type r head,stock, at 240 cfm at .500 lift at 28 inches. Just shows how little Sean really knew about head porting and how much bullshit he was selling. That alone made my hole night and I thankyou.


wp

[Oldblueaccord]

[QUOTE=racerx]nice. on preludepower.com a guy tried installed CTR pistons in his B20A, and ended up burning oil like crazy. he had no idea why. at first he thought it was the rings, or he honed it wrong, but I don't think so.

there was seriously oil all over the tops of his pistons when he pulled the head off.

here's the pics: (at 1200 miles on the new motor)



you answered the question "he honed it wrong" owner said it himself. Unless he owns a machine shop dinggle ball hones are for Chevy's. rings never seated or pistons are too loose or the bores are tapered. Id laugh if it was mouncyn.


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[racerx]

no, the guys screen name was Tsiah.

so, I need to know a little more about honing. I have one of those tools you can get from sears. It has 3 arms with little stones on the ends. Is one of those ok?

[Oldblueaccord]

no, the guys screen name was Tsiah.

so, I need to know a little more about honing. I have one of those tools you can get from sears. It has 3 arms with little stones on the ends. Is one of those ok?

well for myself no its not. There no way for me to hold a drill steady enough and keep the speed up and down in the bore uniform enough to give the proper cross hatch/taper etc. Like i said and old chevy 350 pos that you just throwing rings into, go ahead it will break the glaze help the old cheap cast iron rings break in. it be good for another 10k miles if Im lucky.

Try and find a good machine shop and ask them to look at or watch them bore/hone a block so it will be easier for you to understand the operation. Sunnen I think is the machine most top shops use dont quote me on that.

Remember you want the taper(top to bottom measurement) of the bore to be nil. Like that website says hes going as close as .0005 of an inch taper. A human hair is .005 (five thousandths of an inch. Hes talking 5 tenthousandths of an inch). Thats pretty damn tight.

Myself I have a engine machine shop do the work with the pistons and rings in there grubby hands so they can match the bore to the pistons with the final hone pass.

wp

[Oldblueaccord]

well cant seem to edit my post


but looking at those pictures again I can see an arrow reflection in the bore so that tells me right off the cross hatch is wrong. Look at your stock Honda block the cross hatch in the bore is what you want to achieve unless you ring manufacture specifies something else.


wp

[3G Jester]

i dont doubt his years of experience. but IMO muy car has over 100,00mi....with a new MSD coil and wires im sure its doin a little better then if i had the same old coil in there from 98. and i havent heard any problems of fuel rails. the people ive seen with AEM have no complaints. maybe the "no break in rule" would have saved rob's b20s.....

[racerx]

(that wasn't my engine, thank god! but he did a few things wrong when he installed those pistons)

Anyway, I've seen these honer's with 100 little balls on the ends. Would that be better? Anyone have one or used one?

[FyreDaug]

Good read, however it seems that the writer thinks that most people are idiots... (Which can be true, but sometimes it seems insulting)

[Lok]

i dont doubt his years of experience. but IMO muy car has over 100,00mi....with a new MSD coil and wires im sure its doin a little better then if i had the same old coil in there from 98. and i havent heard any problems of fuel rails. the people ive seen with AEM have no complaints. maybe the "no break in rule" would have saved rob's b20s.....

Yes, you are right that msd electronics are better than stock weared coil and leads.
But you will not see any difference between a new stock ignition system and one MSD.
That's what the guy is talking about, to save some money using stock items which perform as good as aftermarket.
I have many friends with CIVIC/CRX VTEC tuned 180-190hp (B16A) but they never gain in Dyno even 1whp with just changing the stock leads with one Magnecore set.
The only difference is when the stock wires-coil are weared but then again you need to change them with new stock unless you have high C/R N/A motor or High Boost Turbo motor.
Look at Ericks racing Civic 300hp 9sec N/A car, he run stock ignition:

http://www.ericksracing.com/racecar.htm

As for AEM fuel rails, I agree with you but again if stock is as good why to change it?

[Oldblueaccord]

(that wasn't my engine, thank god! but he did a few things wrong when he installed those pistons)

Anyway, I've seen these honer's with 100 little balls on the ends. Would that be better? Anyone have one or used one?

yeah thats the dingle ball hone I was talking about.

wp