anyone know where it went too?
i cant seem to find it
also anyone have the printer friendly version?
l looked in the how to section and it doesn't seem to be there.
water system/ intake manifold / vacuum removal how to?
anyone know where it went too?
i cant seem to find it
also anyone have the printer friendly version?
l looked in the how to section and it doesn't seem to be there.
my 89 lx has sprung a leak under the intake , it is not the hoses
it seems to be coming from a freeze plug? on the underside.
i have not found anything in here yet, anyone ever change one(-freeze plug that is)
as it seems i need to remove the intake i am also looking for a printer friendly version of sheperd79's vacuum line disconnect guide
i want to remove everything but the one that helps the air conditioner, cant take the noodles anymore when working on it!
i could use the size of these freeze plugs , i am removing the intake tomorrow, have plenty of bourbon and band-aids so i should be good to go.
My diagram is here... but there is a link to shepherds site after the diagram I posted.
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067
Here is a direct link to shepherds how-to if you missed it.
http://members.fortunecity.com/accor...cuum_lines.htm
?
Last edited by A20A1; 11-05-2005 at 11:27 PM.
- llia
thanx a20a1 sorry about who's was who's.
is there anything different that you do that is on shepard's? and how bad is the fuel economy with these mod's?
soon i will figure out how to shrink yours so i can print it.
again thanks for your help
It's 3 images, when you print, "print with preview" and adjust the scale of the document.
Fuel economy will go down, or may get a little better depending on how good the stock system was doing it's job. I'd perfer to have easy access to the things on the engine, and limit the chances for a bad part or leaky vacuum line, thats why I removed all the stuff.
I'm still unsure if vacuum line #19 on the diagram needed it's own vacuum source from the intake manifold. But it can't be direct or the fast idle unloader would always have vacuum. I never could work it out cause I didn't originally draw a diagram with the choke and fast idle in mind, those parts were all removed, and later added to the diagram cause members requested it.
- llia
there's a small hose (5/16?) on the back of the carb that wears out and it will make it look like the manifold is leaking, that or maybe the coolant pipe that runs the length of the block is rotted. Your heater hoses should also be checked for wear. I doubt it would be coming out of the freeze plug
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
trust me i checked the hose that runs under the intake and when i put my finger over that one plug i get water also i can plug it up, either way i will find out soon enough!
yo a20a1 is that manual secondary tab custom made or relocated from another piece off the carb?
it's taken from the A/C idle boost.
- llia
here is a update: i removed the intake and just as i suspected the far passenger side freeze plug had rusted out, pictures are coming soon,
i decided to bypass the water thru the intake i have capped off all 3 line from the main water pump pipe.
i broke the top of the oil/water vapor seperator so i decided to delete this off the intake as well.
now i have a plastic box with a hole in the top
so i got a edelbrock air breather and some vinyl tubingand it will just clear the intake now i dont have any worries about junk getting into the block or oil pan i got this breather at advance discount parts $10 it is in the hop up section of the store and i also put a little filter on the valve cover.
now i have also opted to do the vacuum box removal using A20A1 and then sheperd79's extreme removal.
once done i will probably put a manual choke on the car i will use a flow rite control from a boat ballast system.
now for the tricky part a/c idle boost this has to go at this time but i will probably save it so if i really need it it can go back on i figure a switch to activate vacuum thru it will work so it will become a manual on a/c idle controller.
here is a question to anyone reading this:
that wierd plate with the heater on it that goes between the carb and manifold can i get rid of it?
just put a spacer plate there?
i took this off and noticed it has what appears to be a heater in it.
does this restrict fuel flow and can i remove it?
i have stripped the black box out and noticed this piece and was just wondering if i can remove it and put a spacer plate in its place?
i had to remove the intake to fix the water leak i had so i figured i would strip it down.
If you don't have emissions testing remove the white screen... you need the plate to act as a spacer so that the throttle linkage doesn't hit the top of the intake manifold.
got pictures however i am not to good with computers so you can view them at : home.earthlink.net/~andyk65
do a search and if it doesnt pop up look at the did you mean this... or the if url is valid try this...
? Where did you put the filter?
On the valve cover right?
NOT on the PCV valve port I hope, You need to maintain ventalation, it helps seal the pistons, prevents corrosive gasses from staying in the block... etc.
Fix the Broken peice, use some large rubber hose and run a hose from that box to rubber adapters which will allow the smaller PCV valve to fit in the hose.
You don't have to buy the stock replacement part. It just has to seal properly. And connect to the vacuum of the intake manifold.
the way you have it now, there is no vacuum, no valve... no PCV system.
The extra build up of gasses will just make it harder for your engine to work... it will have to pump out gasses from the oil pan out your filter on the power and intake strokes, wasting more energy, leaving less power to the wheels.
Last edited by A20A1; 11-13-2005 at 11:32 AM.
So i cant leave the port open to vent naturally?
i figured since the box was open to the block and the oil pan it would be ok to just put a breather on the port but you are saying no? it needs to be sucked up into my intake which is really fouling out the intake?
if it absolutely must be drawing the gases out instead of natural venting then i will probably figure out a way to run it through a spare vapor canister i have with a valve since i dont want too much of the gunky vapor in my intake i mean it was caked in the intake of the head real bad
and the little pcv broke , can i use any pcv valve or is the stock one cheap to buy?
The stock valve is like $3
The valve cover is what brings in a lot of oil... the PCV has the separator can which usually does a good job.
The valve cover seperator gets full of oil and needs to be cleaned out once and a while or the oil will have a hard time draining and will end up getting sucked into the carb.
Also you have EGR gasses which bring in soot into othe intake manifold... so it's not all the PCV valve.
so do i need the egr hooked up ?
i forgot that it can contribute bad gunk
ya i have a clean head oil passage wise so that doesnt worry me since i put a little filter on the cover pipe.
all right i guess i will have to out the pcv back on
i saw a 90* rubber fitting in the help parts i can put on it then run a pipe with the pcv hooked back up
it wont be too bad except getting that breather off without removing the intake it was real tight and i had to modify the intake to fit it.
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