Pretty much no.
Pretty much no.
Best Price on Clutch Repair in the Tri-Valley
http://www.trivalleyclutch.com/3gparts
OEM quality parts for your 3Gee
What about simply letting it bleed gravity? Open the bleeder up all the way off, pull the top off the resevoir and keep it full, thats how I bleed mine, then I do the pump method 2-3 times per side. No air ever
because this is the accepted way of bleeding brake master cyl. always follow the manufactuers instructions on brake items,it's not just your safety but the safety of everyone around you. I have my ase certification in brakes and you can't be too careful with following accepted procedures.
Today, I replaced the 16yr old master cylinder with a new OE (Nissin brand) MC. The brake seems a little firmer (I haven't done re-bleeding the brake system yet). Hope the previously described problems go away.
The old MC is in pretty good condition from outside. No leaks or anything.
The MC replacement took me 3 hours, mainly because of the tight space it is located in.
Tools used:
- 10mm flare nut wrench (very important)
- 10mm open end combo wrench
- 12mm socket w/a small ratchet
- 12mm open end combo wrench
New MC "chest" bleeding
The method suggested by cardoc33. I let 2 reservior brake fluids run through. Looks like this method works reasonably well, w/o using bleeding fittings.
Thanks.
Current setup:
New OE Master Cylinder
Valvoline Synpower Dot 3&4 Brake Fluid
Front:
- New Rotors -- From AutoZone ($10 each)
- New set of Pads -- PBR/Axxis Ultimate Ceramic
Rear:
- Old OEM Drums -- the drum surfaces are very good. Diameter still within specs.
- New set of Shoes -- Bendix OE relined (premium).
Now, I am very satisfied with the brake performance.
About the cheap rotor
I went to AutoZone looking for their $28 ea Duralast rotors, at the same time, I asked for the Valucraft rotors. Side by side, I like the Valucraft ($10 each) better. Of course, it's not only because of the price differences. Somehow, the look/finish of Valucraft rotor is better than the more expensive Duralast. Also, the weight of the Valucraft is slight heavier. Then, the AutoZone guy said "It's just a piece of metal". That pretty much sealed the deal.
I know Brembo is better. My last rotors was more than 10 years old, and they are still within resurfacing limit. It's hard to imagine the AutoZone rotor won't last 1 or 2 years (the time I am willing to keep this car).
About rotor retaining screws -- Impact Driver
At one side, those 2 screws came off very easily. But on the other side, they are impossible to take out. I have to buy a Impact Driver ($10). They finally came off after penertrating oil and 10min hammering.
About frozen caliper slides -- 5 ton puller
Both the caliper slides are FROZEN. It's frozen so bad that it won't move a little bit when I hammered it hard. I tried to use a 2-ton puller to push it out, and ended up damaging the puller. It's that hard!
Finally, I used a 5-ton puller (from AutoZone), the slides finally came off. After sanding and lubing, both calipers are working perfectly now.
Thanks for all the advices.
those auto zone rotors willl be good until you have to hit the brakes hard a few times,then they will warp like crap, if that guy at autozone knew ehat he was talking about,he never would have said it's just a piece of metal. there is a big difference in the metal used in expensive rotors, it's usually more thermally stable and less prone to warping and heat damage. if all rotors were just a piece of metal everyone would be using autozone rotors. i've raced brembo on the track and it is a much better rotor and well worth the money. even if you are only going to keep the car a few years,it's worth the money to have the best components you can get. in the event of an emergency stop those parts could be the difference between a near miss and an accident. brembo has years of experience developing brake parts of the higest quality vs. autozone buying them in lots of thousands from some company in china. dpn't mean to vent but it really burns me when some counter jockey makes a comment about brake parts like that. if you think in those terms a ferarri engine and a yugo engine are just pieces of metal right?i'm glad you got your brakes fixed and if you need anymore help just look me up on here,glad to help you.
I called 5~6 local parts stores. ALL of them only have "Made in China" rotors in stock. I would guess a high percentage of cars on the road are using rotors just like that. The garages may use them for profitability, the DIYers may also use them since those are the ones they can get from local stores.Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I actually have good experiences with AutoZone parts. The only complaint I had was a set of brake pads, they worn to the metal in less than 1.5 years.
this is from personal experience too, i bought a set one time from there and they were junk,they replaced them under warranty and the same thing. the reason people use cheap rotors is that they are cheap. there is a difference beween a quality rotor and cheap junk. My wife rides in the same car too,that just another reason to stick with quality brake parts.Originally Posted by visionguru
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-02-2005 at 06:17 PM.
Frankly, Bembo rotors (blanks) are not that pricy at all. They can be had for $18 each. I still think any products on the market have certain quality standards, especially safety related items. AutoZone is selling those to make profits. If the rotors keep coming back like that, they definitely will stop selling it. Yes, the AutoZone stuff are nowhere near racing standards, or may not last as long. But I doubt it will cause safety problem for an everyday driver.Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Points well taken though. As far as I can understand, within a brake system, comparing with rotors, the hydraulics are more important, the friction materials are more important. That's why I didn't bother to get a Brembo for $18 mail order, and went for $10 AutoZone.
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