can we use premade turbo manifolds?

[newaccorddriver]

If you're 17 and have no money, don't turbo your car.

its not that i dont have any money, im trying to turbo on a budget. ive saved enough for school already and thats locked away, ive got enough for the rest of the pieces required to turbocharge my accord, just missing the manifold

[bobafett]

whats your plans for fuel management and tuning?

[AccordEpicenter]

well you have to be careful not to warp your flanges etc. If your welding schedule 40 steel to 1/2" thick flanges you have to get good enough penetration without blowing thru the schedule 40 yet and not warp the flange... It can be tricky if you dont know what your doing

[newaccorddriver]

whats your plans for fuel management and tuning?

ill be talking with elijah the next time i see him about that, i havent seen his car yet, but ive seen him turbo components

[newaccorddriver]

well you have to be careful not to warp your flanges etc. If your welding schedule 40 steel to 1/2" thick flanges you have to get good enough penetration without blowing thru the schedule 40 yet and not warp the flange... It can be tricky if you dont know what your doing

im gonna find a book on how to weld soon enough, after that ill be deciding on wether id want to make my own or get someone to make mine... just curious, can an arc welder make manifolds?

[A20A1]

Get your welding book... if it's any good it will explain how and when it's acceptable to use one type of welding over the other.

[Swap_File]

I am in the process of building my own TIG welder, using these directions:
http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml (Motor was just sitting around so it was free, alternator was $30 at the junkyard)

Also I am adding on an arc starter so you I don't have to try to scratch start TIG:


Also I picked up this helmet:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91212
and some MIG welding wire. MIG wire can be used for TIG, but you probably want to take a bunch of it and wind it together to make a bigger stick. With this, your order should be just over $50 and then you can use one of their cool coupons for $5 off and a free item.

Once this is all working with stick welding, I will be picking up a TIG torch and accessory kit from:
www.weldingdepot.com (Something like the WP9) Should be about $50-$60 total, depending on what you want.

Go here for more information:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Welding_Projects/

Edit: The Harbor Freight helmet is ALWAYS on sale, so do not feel pressured to buy it.

[AccordEpicenter]

ehh i wouldnt reccomend an arc welder to do round pipes etc, it takes a good amount of skill. I used a 135 amp mig (it was a 110v welder too) and fully maxed out it did my schedule 40 to 1/2" thick flanges no problem

[Accordtheory]

Tig welding is the best way to go. It is difficult to make a good looking weld with a mig. And trying to make a manifold with a torch or stick, yeah right..There are numerous pictures of my old manifold floating around on this site, I did that with a mig out of sch 40 tubing. There is also a lot more to making a manifold than just knowing how to weld. You also have to design it to accomodate thermal expansion. I've learned So much more about this after I made my manifold. There is one thing I would fix on my old manifold to make it better, I would remove a little brace between runner # 4 and 2&3. I thought it would reinforce it, but it instead caused runner # 4 to damage the stud upon thermal expansion. I should probably pm the guy who bought it from me and tell him to cut that little weld. When you make a turbo manifold, you basically have 2 choices on how to deal with thermal expansion. You can either design it to use a 1 piece flange, and design the runners so they won't exert force on the flange in such a way that causes it to warp and pull out the studs, or you can cut the flange between the runners and drill larger stud holes on the outer runners, for a manifold that expands along the length of the flange. A log manifold also does this, that's why the outer holes are usually bigger, and the flange is usually cut between the runners. I don't really like that though, you'll have a harder time keeping the nuts tight on the studs with the small movement of the flanges, even though that is usually how it's done from the factory. I would prefer a manifold with the collector far enough away to allow the runners to be long enough to lose their leverage on the flange, so the flange can remain 1 piece. I think if you have a decent collector, which is important if you crave high hp, the rest of the manifold will be dictated by the placement of that collector.. which is interdependent on the placement of the turbo itself.. That's really a pain on the a20, with very little room in front of the engine, especially if you keep your ac. My manifold actually allowed me to keep the a/c, ps, stock front motor mount, and had a good collector and relatively long runners. It did have a sharp transition into the turbo though, but it wasn't too horrible. I just had problems with the flanges, I cut them too thin, and that one little brace weld caused annoying warpage. So did thermal wrapping, don't Ever do that to a turbo manifold, guaranteed failure..

p.s. yeah, good luck with that tig, swap file..just remember you get what you pay for. I have like $2k in metal working shit, and I still don't have what I really want..

[adams86lxi]

If you're 17 and have no money, don't turbo your car.

lol, why not? I did lol.

[AccordEpicenter]

lmao. You can do it on pretty much any budget. It just depends how halfass you wanna get. Accordtheory hit the nail on the head. I got a good collector but i also had to cut into my front beam somewhat to get the clearance for the turbo.