wtf?? I used to hit 130 at the top of 4th all the time at 12-13psi. The rods are not the weakest link..what happened??Originally Posted by Justin86
wtf?? I used to hit 130 at the top of 4th all the time at 12-13psi. The rods are not the weakest link..what happened??Originally Posted by Justin86
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
this is true... and 9.3 is fine.. but as we ALL know... its alllll in the tune. u can fuck shit up with 7:1 or be fine with 11:1, its all in the tuning.
the only reason im going so low compression is cause we have reaaally shitty gas in washington and oregon, and i need this motor to last a long as time. and im not losing much compression from what i started with (8.8) so i wont notice a huge loss in off boost power. withe the motor mods i have it should have plenty of grunt.
if i were more familiar with tuning cars ,and had more experience with boost, i would have loved to roll 9.5:1, but the people at diamond racing, and at dan halls performance (my machine shop) talked me out of it.
bottom line is: boosted accords are good, no matter how many psi, or what compression they are running!
yeah its all in preference too bobafett, you cant go wrong with a boosted accord. I think justin was hitting 20+ psi with forged pistons on STOCK RODS. My entire engine is fine after running thousands of miles on 10-11psi and hundreds of miles on 13-nearly 14 psi, the rods arent the weak link. Perhaps the pistons are, but you can kill both at any psi with a bad tune which i believe you had justin86. I wouldnt boost over 4th gear, because big top speed runs damage parts and put a large continuous load on the engine which stresses everything, even on a built motor, so Ive never done 5th gear rippers
Edit: Im thinking about going with water/alcohol injection again to allow 13psi with street gas to quell detonation, race gas is expensive... ideas guys?
Last edited by AccordEpicenter; 11-26-2005 at 12:06 PM.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
well unless my ECU and gauges were lying I set it up to run rich, just to be safe. My engine went just cause it was time and I haven't been easy on it. Pistons blow from bad tune, not your rod bearings in most cases.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
well guys I think I will share the A20 turbo build up victim I know it's not a 3 gee but it's my baby. I get the 87 si parts car tommorrow!!!
well i guess the picture thing isnt working sorry guys
if thr picture is hosted online somewhere (read: not on your hard drive) and you know the address of it, just click the image icon in the quick reply text box. its the 2nd from the right. then past in your address to the image. it will show up in the thread then.
So what exactly happened?Originally Posted by Justin86
You can damage rod bearings from detonation that isn't severe enough to break the ring lands. I'm pretty sure I've done that. There were metal filings in my oil..bearings out of spec, I replaced the bearings and the clearances were barely ok. My pistons and compression was still fine, although low. That engine was garbage though, from the moment I put it in my car. On my first engine I broke a ringland, and the bottom end was perfectly fine, good clearances, good looking bearings on that cylinder, and good oil press.
But richness isn't the best way to control detonation and too much can be detrimental.Originally Posted by Justin86
Did you adjust your plug gaps?
the pic isnt online it's in the computer or hard drive
get a www.photobucket.com site
resize your images to 800X800 pixles or less.
thanks A20 I'll try it right now
You can be rich as all hell and still knock badly, especially if your unintercooled, have the wrong spark plugs in (wrong heat range) or have even slightly too much ignition timing. I think most people damage engines with a too agressive timing curve more often than leaning out... especially because everybody knows to go rich...
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I have the j&s safeguard and I sure as hell will be using it on my b series..that thing is awesome. It gives you a nice margin of safety for anything, hot day, lousy gas, boosting up a hill in 5th, etc.
maybe you guys missed when I said I have rod knock. I checked my comp right after and they were all around 165psi, same as before I put the turbo on.
driving the car around 5000-6500 for 10mins straight it what did it in.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
so what would be a good spark plug gap to use when I'm turboed to avoid detonation and bad ingnition? should I also invest in after market ignition like msd, mallory, ect
For plugs you want stock or one step colder. With higher boost, hard driving, more heat a colder plug is best. It depends on you driving habits. If you drive it full out like a race car, under full boost all the time a plug 3 steps colder would be best.
With plug gaps when you increase them it will create a more intense spark, creating more heat but alos a more efficent burn, so good and bad for a turbo. But depending on the type of plug and ignition there is limit to plug gap, and ours cars get really bitchy if you don't have NGK's in there esp if you change the gap larger then stock.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
im 2 steps colder on a .028" gap. Id say that colder plugs are a must for boost. Im on a stock ignition besides the BTM, but the btm just corrects timing, it doesnt add spark like an MSD 6A or somthing. An MSD box would be a good idea but is not required
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
what brand of plug is a cold plug would ngk's work or should I get something eles. Oh and I have started my build up 1st converting the car over to efi!!!!
im using somthing like NGK BPR7ES... Id only rock NGKS man. These seem to work pretty good
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
i've never had any problems with ngk's I just didnt know that I can get them in a colder spark. and I just got all the carb harness out of the car and the efi harness is ready to go in!!!!!1
here she is
well I guess not I cant get this thing to work could anyone post them if I send them to you by email. 3 geez wont host it
Last edited by 85lude; 12-05-2005 at 09:22 PM.
I just got my turbo last night and I need is a bov, charge pipe,and safc for right now and I'm still waiting for the header and down pipe to come in from accord88ltd i guess it was elijahs old manifold. I also got my cardomain site up to here's a link if you want to check it out www.cardomain.com/ride/2209427 I'll put a pic of the turbo tonight.
looks like youre making progress...keep it up
Here you go man. Looks like your coming along.
and this A20 motor has 225,000 miles on it no smoke and still has some get up and go. so I'm going to put my ported and polished head on it and start boosting!!!!!
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