I was sent from preludepower.com and told that you guys really know your A20's. I would like to know where I can get springs,retainers,valves,mild cam or turbo cam,rods, pistons. these a20's are old but I love em. I've been searching and havent found any thing. I have also heard that ls rods will fit the A20?!?! Also does anyone still makes a turbo header?!?! any help will be very appericiated thanks guys.
turbo headers are going to have to be custom. why do you want to replace all these things in the motor? you can run moderate boost on these motors bone stock. Just some minor ignition and fab work.
^the new ride^ Mazda rx-7.. gettin 'r done without pistons since 1978
"Spoiler size is inversely proportional to wee-wee size"
the ex - 3rd gen owner
yeah I was thinking about it today and I would like to at least do some head work like a light port and polish a mild cam stock spring would work fine because I not reving over 8 grand. but I would like to at least rebuild the bottom end and balance it. like you said moderate boost nothing over 12 lbs at the most. the motor right now has some miles on it and was planning on rebuilding it anyway.
I dont knwo about all the motor parts, those will be kinda hard to find but there is a member selling a Turbo Manifold on this site right now. After you get the manifold it's all easy stuff for a turbo a20. Hope this helps good luck.
ok I'll look it up thanks. It's much easier when the header is pre made.
Originally Posted by 85lude
just click the link I provided
How much boost are you planning on running? You can run 10 no problem, and like said all you need is some ignition control and some fabrication. Leave the bottom end alone unless your going over 17 Id say, pnp wont do you too much good when your forcing it. And the stock cam seems fine anyways, no overlap. Overlap = bad on turbo car, I dont think theres any cams not having any overlap. A custom cam will cost you. If you REALLY want, just port match the head, and get a custom cam for your boost. Dont bother with anything else, unless the motor isnt in the greatest shape... but then again, you could rebuild it or pick from the 100's of accords in the wreckers
pretty much ignore fyredog there...
port and polish work gets AMPLIFIED results on a forced induction application, and you certainly SHOULD have a motor internals addressed if you are running even slightly less than '17' psi...
custom cams are cheap, delta will do a grind for 115 shipped, without a core! they can give you a grind that is compatible with a turbo motor as well. while its true that a stock cam is better than a NA performance cam in general, a custom turbo cam can have plenty of benifit over a stock cam.
if you plan on boosting the motor, and having it last a while, DO rebuild the bottom end and freshen up the head.
for rods, yes you can use ls integra rods (get forged rods, eagle h-beam is what is in my built motor) but you need to then have custom pistons made with a 21mm wrist pin. diamond racing will build u a set for $525 ish dialed in to whatever specs you want, including the 21mm pin, and total seal rings with a chrome steel top ring. (good for boost).
i can get you part numbers on king tri metal bearings, and you can order arp head fasteners (i can get you part numbers on these as well)
SI valves can get you custom valves, and i IMAGINE they can help with retainers and springs, but there is no specific application for the a20 on their site.
i am the only member i know of with ti retainers and high compression valve springs for an a20, and i bought them off of a member who abandoned a build, and he doesnt remember where he got them.but SOMEBODY bothered to make them.
the main problem you are going to run into is how to tune it, and since i havent come accross that bridge yet, im not going to be able to offer much advice, but you have a few choices....
standalone: AEM EMS, megasquirt, SDS EFI
hack: AFC BTM
conversion: obd1 swap and crome or some other editor...
good luck with the turbo build, if u want those part numbers just let me know and i can hook u up.
i would actually like those part numbers bobafett, they would be nice to know and could come in handy for me in the future, thanks
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
ditto on the request for part numbers please
I plan on running no more than 12lbs of boost. I have been reading in my honda book and it said that I can have the stock rods shot peened and that would strenthen them up to handle like 15 lbs. does delta have a web site or phone # so I can talk to them. engine management I was just going to have a safc along with dsm blue top 450's and tune it out for now. and yes can you get me the number for the bearings and valves and does both of those companys have websites?
king tri metal bearings
main bearing:
MB 5168AM
thrust washer:
TW 110AM
rod bearing:
CR 439AM
www.deltacam.com
www.sivalves.com
i will have to get back to you guys for the part numbers on the ARP's
as for running 12psi with SAFC and 450's, i PERSONALLY think that 12psi is a little high to just be tuning with the SAFC, i wouldnt run more than 10 psi on safc. but stock shot peened rods should be alright with 12psi.
when im done with my build (hopefully a couple months) ill do a full parts list with prices if i can get them.
thanks bobafett right now I'm ging to use a stock a20 until I get my other a20 built. And I got the turbo header from 88 accord ltd and I might get the t3 turbo from him to. But when I build the A20 I will probly build the whole thing like rods pisons head work every thing this was I can still drive my car and take my time building the A20. Have you heard anything about boring out the block for a b20 piston?? like cooling problems and so on.
Last edited by 85lude; 11-23-2005 at 09:12 PM.
Just remember that managemant is the key. Run a shitty tune and youll blow it at even like 5psi or even less. Before i put my accord away i was running 13psi on a very very conservative tune with no problems on a completely stock motor. You need HP goals to figure out what youll need to achieve them. I do agree with bobafett and stuff hes saying... like even though ive been running 13psi on the safc, i wouldnt reccomend it, i really need to upgrade to obd1. Get better managemant than an AFC over 10psi. I will say that it worked good for 10psi though.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Well I'm not going to run 12 psi right off the bat I'll run with 5-7 psi for a while and break it in and tune it and such. have you guys heard of zdyne engine managment?? they do obd 0 ecus only but I dont know if they are a good company or not?
I was just giving suggestions on a cheap build, incase he wasnt actually going all out when he found the costs of stuff.
Port and polish will help yes, but you are still FORCING it in, so intake side wont make as much of a difference, but im not here to argue against someone that actually has turboed an a20, and im definately not arguing it will flow better. I suppose you could ignore my previous post
Zdyne is good but they dont do anything for our cars, youd have to rewire and convert to civic obd0 but if you have to do that you might as well go to obd1 and chip a civic ecu and run crome or uberdata. Zdyne ecus arent cheap, even now. I personally believe that one of the bigger restrictions in the engine is the stock intake mani and tb, then the head etc. You dont need to go to town on porting but a little helps, but i think youll get big gains on a turbo setup going to a b16 or aebs intake mani and a big tb such as bobafetts buildup. Im gonna upgrade as well, so ill see firsthand next year
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
yea you can run 10psi on a rebuilt short block, still dosn't mean it won't blow, just depends on your driving. If you race it full out around a track don't plan on it lasting too long. My rods lasted for about 8mins at 7psi from 4K-6Krpms and going up to 130mph. So long as you don't try to drive it like a circut car you will be good on a stock bottom end.
But what I can tell you is that 8mins was some of the most exciting driving I have ever done.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
As long as you dont boost in 5th gear and have a conservative tune you should be fine on a good condition stock motor at 10psi. I think 13psi like im doing is pushing it on pump gas but we will see. It is all in the tune though
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I was going to put a stock b16 manifold and tb on the A20. And I think I will just go with the obd1 conversion. And what about puting B20 pistons in the A20 just so that I dont have to get custom ones all I would do is bores out the block. oh and justin I'm glad to hear that, that was the greatest 8min of your life.
stock bore on a20 is 82.7mm, i went to 84mm which is appentrly about as much as u can/should do.... im not sure what the size of b20 pistons are, but if they are much bigger than 84mm, its probably out of the questions
if you are boosting, the two smartest mods are pistons and rods that are really strong. so the best bet is forged internals. if you ABSOLUTLY dont want to do that... at least get some 86-87 lxi pistons, which are 8.8:1 CR and shot peen your stock rods.
also if you need a b16 manifold, i have a bare oem 00si b16 manifold i will sell ya cheap
yeah I was thinking of boring it 84mm with srp or ross or something like that and eagle rods. how much for the manifold bobafett??
40 + shipping sound fair?
I personally dont subscribe to the "lower your compression ratio to boost your engine" 9.3:1 compression is plenty boost friendly even on pump gas. Youll make more power at the same boost level and the car will be more fun to drive. A few guys have run just forged pistons on stock rods on big boost A20s and had no problems, but they do generally require machine work such as resizing, new rod bolts, shotpeening etc, and machine work aint cheap, so you might as well spend the little extra money on eagle H beam rods or other aftermarket rods and enjoy the piece of mind. I would have no reservations running the stock rods at the stock rev limit to around 400hp provided they were shotpeened and had good rod bolts installed however
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
yeah bobafett thats good pm me your address and I'll get the money order sent off on monday. I also agree with you accord I think that 9.5:1 compression would be the most compression I would go considering it's pupm gas. and even for a daily driver car it would be a good idea to put in some h beams if you have the extra money to do it to have pease of mind like you said.
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