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Thread: alarm system problem and question

  1. #1
    LXi User
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    alarm system problem and question

    I just installed my alarm system today and everything went well except for one thing. When I arm the alarm the doors lock like they should so that is fine but when I disarm or unlock my doors with the remote the locks will pop for a second and then go back down. I open the door quickly within that one second and the alarm doesn't go off so it does disarm. This is weird that the locks pop up for only one second, it is almost like they cycle up and then down. Any ideas to solve this? Thanks in advance for the advice.



  2. #2
    LX User catalin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    I just installed my alarm system today and everything went well except for one thing. When I arm the alarm the doors lock like they should so that is fine but when I disarm or unlock my doors with the remote the locks will pop for a second and then go back down. I open the door quickly within that one second and the alarm doesn't go off so it does disarm. This is weird that the locks pop up for only one second, it is almost like they cycle up and then down. Any ideas to solve this? Thanks in advance for the advice.

    Do the locks open up fine with the door switch? Will they re-lock fine if you were to arm again? Are these factory locks and if they are what wires did you tap into?

    I'm assuming it's a 3gee Accord too.

  3. #3
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    It is a 89 lxi. These are the original power locks. I will now list for you the wires I have connected and to what they are connected to. My alarm has a 14 pin main harness and a 3 pin door lock harness. Here are the 14 pin wires and there purpose and what I did with them

    1 red wire+12volt battery input connected to white wire in ignition harness
    2 white wire parking light output+ 7A connected itto red/black wire connector fusebox
    3 brown wire siren output connected to siren positive wire
    4 blue/white wire passenger unlock output -500mA connected to green/red wire in driver's kickpanel
    5 white/red wire auxillary two output -500mA not connected
    6 orange wire armed output -500mA not connected
    7 brown/white wire horn output -500mA connected to blue/red wire in steering column harness
    8 black/white wire dome light output -500mA connected to dome light wire forget colors
    9 blue wire trunk/hood trigger input not connected
    10 grAY WIRE AUXILLARY ONE INPUT NOT CONNECTED
    11 yellow wire +12volt ignition input connected to black/yellow ignition wire
    12 black wire groung input- connected to car body
    13 violet wire positive door trigger input not connected
    14 green wire negative door trigger input I think I connected it to doorpin black/white wire

    3 pin door lock harness

    1 blue wire negative unlock output -500mA and positive lock output +250mA connected to green/red wire in kick panel actaully I just tapped into the blue/white wire in 14 pin harness since they feed off of the same car harness wire
    2 red wire constant low voltage +12volt current connected to horn wire
    3 green wire negative lock output -500mA connected to green/white wire in kick panel

    This is what I have done the alarm works great but the locks just don't stay open more than one second. Also I did tap into the parking lights but they don't flash when I arm or disarm the alarm. Why not? Also my horn doesn't honk with the alarm but it sounds very faint like it is trying. Is it because I am drawing too much power from the horn by tapping into that line for a constant low voltage power source? I hope I connected everything correctly but if not please feel free to correct me and thanks catalin.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like its feeding back through the switch. Your going to have to relay the unlock side. The unlock wire is negative trigger so put ground on your 87 pin, but your going to have to cut the unlock wire putting the switch side of the wire to the 87a pin, and the motor side or factory relay side to your 30 pin.

    This should cure your problem... but let us know if it doesn't.
    Thanks,
    Dave

    '87 Accord Pickup - "Dazed And Confused"
    http://www.the-web-fox.com/dave/Honda/

  5. #5
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    I didn't catch the parking light problem in my first response. Check the wire that you tapped for your parking lights with either a meter or test light. If the light lights up when u turn the parking lights on, then thats definately the right wire. If not, keep testing different wires. Also check and make sure with the test light when u arm and disarm the alarm it lights up the test light. If not, check the fusing and make sure there isn't some sort of polarity selecter on the brain.

    Your horn wire may need to be relayed. (assuming that your horn works fine otherwise)

    The only other thing that I wonder with the problems your having, (horn and parking lights) is if your ground is good enough. Test it with a meter to the battery terminal and make sure that you don't have a great amount of resistance there.
    Thanks,
    Dave

    '87 Accord Pickup - "Dazed And Confused"
    http://www.the-web-fox.com/dave/Honda/

  6. #6
    LX User catalin's Avatar
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    Neoblue here's the info for your car.

    | ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
    | 12V|white, white/black |+ |ign. harness, fusebox |
    | STARTER|black/white |+ |ign. harness, fusebox |
    | IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ign. harness, fusebox |
    | ACCESSORY|yellow and blu/wht |+ |ign. harness, fusebox |
    | POWER LOCK|green/white |- |DKP or mod. under pass seat |
    | POWER UNLOCK|green/red |- |DKP or mod. under pass seat |
    | PARKING LIGHTS +|red/black | |fuse box in dr. kick |
    | HEADLIGHTS|red/white (low beam)|+ |at light switch |
    | DOOR TRIGGER|black/white |- |above fusebox *1 |
    | TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green/black |- |under left side dash |
    | TACHOMETER|blue | |2 pin plug from distr. |
    | BRAKE WIRE|green/white/slvr dot|+ |at brake sw. |
    | HORN TRIGGER|blue/red *2 |- |at steering column |
    | WIPERS|blue/yellow |- |at wiper switch |
    | LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/yel - red/blu |A |at drivers door motor |
    | RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/yel - blu/grn |A |at drivers door switch |
    | LR WINDOW UP/DN|yellow - yel/grn |A |at drivers door switch |
    | RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/yel - green |A |at drivers door switch |


    Notes:
    *1 In a two-wire harness wrapped in vinyl tubing above fusebox behind coinbox. Also found the same color in a green plug to the right of the steering column. *2 High-current ground. Use a relay when interfacing with this circuit.

  7. #7
    LX User catalin's Avatar
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    A few problems I see with this.

    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    4 blue/white wire passenger unlock output -500mA connected to green/red wire in driver's kickpanel.
    Disconnect this since it will not do anything for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    7 brown/white wire horn output -500mA connected to blue/red wire in steering column harness.
    Imwediately stop using the alarm and disconnect this output. You MUST use a relay to trigger the horn in pretty well all Hondas. More then the 500milli amps of current is required to trigger the horn. You may have dammaged the horn output of the alarm.

    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    8 black/white wire dome light output -500mA connected to dome light wire forget colors
    Same problem as above with the horn. You must use a relay and you can tap the output in with the door trigger.

    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    9 blue wire trunk/hood trigger input not connected
    You should connect this to the trunk trigger and a hood pin. One of them most important points that you should protect is the hood since anyone can open it from the outside and cut the siren or simply disconnect the battery before the alarm makes any noise.

    Quote Originally Posted by neoblue89lxi
    2 red wire constant low voltage +12volt current connected to horn wire
    This output is only meant to supply power to trigger a relay or two for the purpose of wiring up door locks. It is not meant to be connected to anything else. Disconnect it, but I'm sure the first time that you pushed on the horn you damaged it.

    About the park lights... I'm quite certain that you tapped into the wrong wire unless the fuse is blown on the alarm output. You can easily find park lights at an extra terminal at the top of the underdash fusebox. There you will find four or five extra male 'plugs'. One of which will turn on (+12V) when the park lights are turned on. Connect the white wire to this area with a female quick disconnect connector.

    Give it a go and let us know how you made out.

  8. #8
    Banned suvsareretarded's Avatar
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    Re: alarm system problem and question

    I could be mistaken, but I think you only need to use 2 wires for the power lock/unlock system. I don't know why you are using 3.

  9. #9
    DX User bucket_man's Avatar
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    Re: alarm system problem and question

    is there an adjustment on the alarm to change the time they stay open for? Because most alarms have a feature where they relock if you dont enter the car quickly enough.
    Paul
    '88 Accord 2.0 Si (LX-i)

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