Rotating crankshaft question

[visionguru]

I am thinking of replacing the valve cover gasket, because it's seeping out a little bit oil. It maybe a good idea to check/adjust the valve clearance and the condition of the timing belt at the same time. All these require rotating the crankshaft.

From many wonderful posts/howtos I've read here, I can rotate the crankshaft by using a rachet w/17mm socket to turn the bolt on the crankshaft pulley. My questions are:

How hard it is to turn the crankshaft? With spark plugs being removed, what's the ballpark Torque that is needed? Do I need long extensions or a long rachet?

Based on my current tools,

• 30lb-ft torque == not hard
• 50lb-ft torque == ok if there are enough space
• 80lb-ft torque == very hard if space is limited. (The 80lb-ft lug nuts seem not difficult at all).

I want to know if I need additional tools to turn the crankshaft. Advices please.
Thanks.

[A20A1]

I've always used a regular socket wrench... however things like A/C and power steering could be adding resistance. I don't have those and my crank is fairly easy.

Removing the plugs helps a lot.

[POS carb]

you can do it with a regular 3/8 ratchet and a 17 mm socket, it's not hard. Removing the spark plugs would make it easier to turn...

I'm a lazy ass, I use the starter

[visionguru]

A20A1, cke, and POS carb, thanks for the tip. I am more confident now.

About the Valve Cover Gasket, I've bought Fel-Pro PermaDry gasket from Autozone (haven't opened yet). Anyone has experience with it? By reading online, it seems to be that the Fel-Pro is just silicone based, and cannot be re-used. If that's the case, everytime I open the valve cover, a new gasket has to be replaced.

My Valve cover is seeping out a little oil (no smoke, dripping, only traces on the left lower corner), and it's been like this since many years ago. The gasket seems to be rubber. Will it be possible that it only need some re-torquing and RTV? That will save me a non-reusable gasket.

Thanks.

[A20A1]

Well I'm using fel-pro and I take the cover off a few times and it seals up fine...

Don't mash the gasket the first time you install it.

A little bit of gasket maker is okay to use... but if the rubber is really dry and hard then replace it.

[AccordEpicenter]

all you need is a little rtv in the right angle corners, like near the cam gear and near the distributor, thats it

[Oldblueaccord]

A20A1, cke, and POS carb, thanks for the tip. I am more confident now.
About the Valve Cover Gasket, I've bought Fel-Pro PermaDry gasket from Autozone (haven't opened yet). Anyone has experience with it? By reading online, it seems to be that the Fel-Pro is just silicone based, and cannot be re-used. If that's the case, everytime I open the valve cover, a new gasket has to be replaced.
My Valve cover is seeping out a little oil (no smoke, dripping, only traces on the left lower corner), and it's been like this since many years ago. The gasket seems to be rubber. Will it be possible that it only need some re-torquing and RTV? That will save me a non-reusable gasket.
Thanks.

Makes sure it came with the 3 little groments that go under the acorn nuts also. They help preload the valve cover so it seals well.


wp

[Kabuki]

Jeez, guys... OE VC gaskets are cheap... the part number is 12341-PH4-000, and Honda list is $7.78. Add a little Ultra Grey or Hondabond to the corners, and you're good for at least 15K. 30K if conditions are right and you don't overheat the engine. Washers are 90441-PC6-000 (there are actually a bunch ov numbers that fit, this is just the one I stock), and list is $1.58 each (x3). They should be changed at the same time. Don't reuse gaskets when they are this inexpensive. You are just asking for more pain.