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Thread: My car died. Maybe timeing belt or distributor

  1. #1
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    Exclamation My car died. Maybe timeing belt or distributor

    k, I was driveing down the street, holding steady at about 55k/h. All off a sudden the engine shut off. I tried several times to start the car again, and nothing. The starter was turning the engine over, but the engine was not fireing at all. I pulled over, checke all my plug wires, tried again, and same thing. When we got it towed home, I checked the resistances in the coil, and we thought that one of them was not right (i think A to D). So, I got an accel coil because I was planning on getting on soon anyway, and it was cheeper than the stock one. Got it put in, and nothing. (btw, we looked at the schematic for the stock coil and noticed a resister used that went out to things like the tack and fuel solenoid, etc. So the resistor was still showing good in the stock coil, so we by passed the coils in the stock coil, just used the resistor, and used the accel coil. Nothing. We also tried it without that resistor, just the accel coil, and still nothing). Anyway, We took the distributar cap off, and watched it as we tried to start, and the rotor didn't turn. And than I had to go to work.
    So, I ask you now, what could this be. Do accords have interference engines? I ask because if the timeing belt broke, would the engine still be ok, or would the pistons smash into the valves. Could it be some sort of shear or codder pin that attaches the distributor to the cam?

    Anyhow, please let me know. I will test some things out, and let you know.
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines



  2. #2

    AZmike's Avatar
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    Check the timing belt. Pull off the upper belt cover (two bolts, one in front and one behind the pulley). Have someone watch it while you turn the engine over. I've heard of one guy who's belt failed while he was idling and he didn't have to rebuild his head, just replace the belt.
    Last edited by AZmike; 08-23-2002 at 02:19 PM.
    Mike

  3. #3
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    my timing belt broke while i was ideling, i just replaced the belt and it runs good again,

  4. #4
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    Well, looking at your engine, there's a few things it could be, No spark, which you have established (if you haven't checked that, pull a plug, CAREFULLY hold it connected to the wire with a pair of INSULATED pliers, and leave a gap between the plug and a spot on the motor to see if you get a bluish spark) then it could be fuel related. Turn the key on, or have someone turn it on to where the engine light comes on, listen for the fuel pump in the back. It has a distinct sound, a mechanical hum. It could be you have a broken fuel pump. Also check to make sure your main fuel relay is working correctly. If you put your seatbelt on (so it doesn't beep when you start it), and turn the key to the 2nd position again, you will hear down by your left knee, or somewhere in your dash, a CLICK. (it usually clicks when you're fuel pump is done whirring) This is a common problem on our 3g's. If that main fuel relay is not working, you will have fuel problems (i.e. not starting like your case).

    Good luck. If you still have questions, ask away, that's what this board is here for.
    This useless space for sale, please inquire at the front desk.

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran Bobs89LXi's Avatar
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    You have to be very careful with Honda engines as far as the timing belt is concerned. There is no built in protection for when the belt breaks. I have seen a couple of Honda engines with busted valves due to the timing belt breaking. However, both times, they were driving at highway speeds.

  6. #6
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    well, thank-you all for your replies, but it is still broken.
    I took the timeing belt cover off and the timeing belt is still intact. I pulled on both sides, and they didn't come up (like if the belt was broken at the bottom). The belt is kinda loose though, I could just slide it off if I wan't too, but I didn't take it all the way off. Anyways, I tried starting it, and the belt didn't move at all. Didn't budge, didn't jerk, nothing.

    So, anybody have anyideas?
    I'm really scubbered here. I haven't a clue what is going on. I'm going to phone my mechanic and see what he says.
    anyway, thanks for all your help guys.
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  7. #7
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    Honda timing belts are not the tightest in the world.

    I'd suspect the coil, especially since the belt appears to be intact.
    Lester

  8. #8
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    nonono, the belt doesn't move at all when the car is being started. The coil is fine.
    I talked to my mechanic and he said I probably ripped some teeth off the belt. I'm going to take the bottom cover off the timeing belt tommorow. I didn't feel like changeing my timeing belt yet. Well, I guess this is as good a time as any. I just hope I didn't mash any valves. Does anybody know whether or not these are interference engines?
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  9. #9

    Jareds 89 LX-i's Avatar
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    Yes, they are interference engines. While some peeps get lucky and don't mess anything up, most of the time when a tbelt breaks it does cause some grief. But ya never know
    -Jared

    Black '89 Accord LX-i sedan - 436,600 miles and still going strong!
    Black/Red '04 Honda CBR 600 F4i -256,100 miles and also counting quick

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    if the rotor doesn't turn , the belt doesn't turn ! so it's propably your timin belt's teeth ! just don't crank it a lot so you won't bend your valves !


    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  11. #11
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    This is what happened to my car. We were going about 35MPH and the engine just died. The teeth on one part of the timing belt were gone.

    I was lucky and didn't have any bent valves or anything. I had the belt replaced about 12,000 miles ago and it runs perfect. I hope you have the same luck.

  12. #12
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    well, it looks like the teeth are all gone on one part of the belt.
    I'll start it up tommorow and let ya'll know if I bent any valves. Here's hopeing!!!
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  13. #13

    87accordlxph's Avatar
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    wow!

    What a scary feeling! I'm hoping that you didn't do any engine damage.

    That sucks!

    -Mike
    Mike's Clean Cnd A20A2 5 spd Champaigne Beige Sedan Accord, Eh!
    B-Day: 07/87 in Alliston, ON Canada

    ---------------------------------------------------------------
    The best mods are mods that can be modded over and over again.

  14. #14
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    bwaaaaaaa!!!!
    This sucks!!!! One last bolt to undo before I can get at the timeing cog, and the bloody thing is in there so damn good that an entire can of penetrateing lub and a $25/half-day-rented-3/4-impact-wrench couldn't get it loose!!!! I hammered on that f*cker for bout 6 hours straight. Nothing except ringing in my ears!!! It was the bolt that held on the belt pully to the crankshaft.
    Anybody got any ideas? It's not even rusty!!!
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  15. #15
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    bwaaaaaaa!!!!
    This sucks!!!! One last bolt to undo before I can get at the timeing cog, and the bloody thing is in there so damn good that an entire can of penetrateing lub and a $25/half-day-rented-3/4-impact-wrench couldn't get it loose!!!! I hammered on that f*cker for bout 6 hours straight. Nothing except ringing in my ears!!! It was the bolt that held on the belt pully to the crankshaft.
    Anybody got any ideas? It's not even rusty!!!
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  16. #16
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    Prop small butane torch on bolt for a very long extended time the kind you braze with, bought at wal-mart. Then hit it with impact....Honda must use a type of lock-tite, this will hopefully work

  17. #17
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    hahahahaha!!! Got that little sucker off. I used a breaker bar with a 12" extention, a 3" extention, and a 1" extention. A 3/4" impact bit, and 8 feet of steel tubeing on the end of the breaker bar. to keep the engine from turning, I had to back the engine from TDC and shove 8 feet of 3/16" clothes line in the spark plug hole of cylinder #1. Then I had the breaker bar and tube sticking straight up in the air. I had a hydrolic jack sitting underneath the 90 degree bend in the breaker bar, and I walked the 8 foot steel all the way back until it was almost touching the ground. With a loud crack the whole thing came flying apart, and the bolt came loose. That teach that little piece of crap. Got everything back together, and she purrs like a kitten again!! No bent valves!!! Adjusted my valve lashes, and it idles even better now. Thanks for all your help guys.
    89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).

    Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines

  18. #18

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Dude it sounds like your timing belt. Mine broke about a year ago and I was doing like 70mph and I bent my pistons and valves. I told my mom to just buy a new engine (with more hp) but she didn't listen and she paid about the same for a new engine just to get new pistons and valves put in. (parents should listen to their kids about stuff!)

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