This guy used Fram filters.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...ilter-failure/
This guy used Fram filters.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...ilter-failure/
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I only use honda filters on my car. I always use oem filters after.I had a few engine noises that got quiet after putting the oem filter back on. And I also had a friend blow up a 94 toyota camary using junk filters without the check valve in them.
Mike C in NC USA
These are direct quotes from that thread
i wonder if it just wasn't up to the extra volume that the JUN oil pump was putting out?I got some more info from insiders in japan that knew the guys that built this motor that it may or may not of had an issue before this with the same bearing it it was just replaced... yea just that one... So it was bound to happen. The ONE thing i learned for sure on a hi dollar motor... unless you built it yourself open it up and check all your tolerances!!!
Was the filter fucked up? Sure. Did the motor fail because of the filter? Who knows. Plus, a cheap filter on a modded turbo motor? Not the greatest example in the world...
I guess I am not 100% sure what the oil consumption issue was. If I use a "standard" 10W30 synthetic I can get a little blue smoke out of the tailpipe right at cold startup. When I use the 5W40 Rotella T synthetic I do not get that and I add oil a lot less frequently, maybe every 1,000 miles or so. I have had to add a little oil to this car throughout its entire life, though. The spark plugs stay clean and the inside of the tailpipe looks normal.
I didn't want to leave you thinking I use the cheapest of the cheap filters. NPN is actually an OEM filter manufacturer for Honda. I have also used Mahle, Wix, Purolator, Bosch, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Super Tech (Wal Mart), and yes, Fram.
Here's what I have been using lately...
http://www.npnparts.com/oil_filters.html
Well, the way I see it is if he had put a decent filter on the car, there would have been no doubt that it wasn't the filter. Now he gets to wonder if his high dollar engine was laid low by the two dollars he saved on a filter.
When I put that crappy rebuilt motor in my car, I had a low oil pressure problem at startup. A cheap Purolator filter made the problem much, much worse. It would take 3x as long for the engine to get to pressure at startup. It would run at 5 psi on the highway vs. 50 psi with a Wix. The oil would drain out of the bearings much faster after shut down. It made an existing problem many times worse.
I had this argument on another board last week and the Fram defenders finally just said, we don't care about facts or evidence, we're gonna keep using Frams. That's usually how these arguments end, but the candor surprised me. It's fine too. If you like Frams, use them up. I hope they work great for you and that you don't end up with another scare story. Just don't try to say you use them because there is no difference or there's no proof or people can't make a compelling case. There are all kinds of reviews on the web where they cut open all the popular filters and show how awful the Frams are. There are plenty of horror stories about how people had seals blow out on the Frams and dump all their oil on the highway as they were racing along. Or how the cardboard disintegrated and destroyed an engine bearing, etc. etc. etc. If you don't find my example satisfying, there are plenty more to choose from.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
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