the stp is about three dollars cheaper,and if you stripped the paint off of both,and took them apart,you couldn't tell the difference. bosch makes a lot of filters that are rebadged as other brands, the identical code numbers stamped in the bottom of both base plates tells me the stp is really a bosch under the paint. - if you gonna' shitcan it (listen up CAH) FRAM IT!!!
Go to the page if it loads save the pages, I had a few sites that would remember your IP I guess and if you went there again it asked you to pay, but the first visit didn't seem to block you.
- llia
I think the main reason Fram is so popular,is simply because it's cheaper. there are a lot of uninformed people driving around who don't know the first thing about how their car works, they take advantage of this by saturating the tv with adds about their filters. they might have been good years ago, but engine tolerances were a lot looser, that doesn't fly with anything made from about the mid eighties and up. or anything imported with a high precision engine.
i have a k&n on the car now. although that was $12. so when i do my oil change (which should've been a grand ago...), i have a purolator pureone filter in the garage with some conventional valvoline just waiting to go in.
i got a Napa gold filter for 7 bucks....its made my wix. Dont flame me but i have a fram on my car....i needed to change the oil that day and thats all that kragen had. when i do my oil pan next week im chaning it.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
wanted to bring up an update to this old thread,the company that made bosche filters sold it to someone else, they are now junk like fram, figures, take a good filter and ruin it. the wix/nappa gold are still excellent though
How about Pennzoil? That's what I use.
I'm just stocking up on Purolator Pure one S2000 Filters in the States. They're cheap and provide excellent filtering.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
be careful of the factory filters, in Japan they come from the factory with the really good filters, but if you try to order the JDM filters here, Honda substitutes them for cheap filters. They get everything good in Japan that we don't get here. you can order the JDM filters but they won't be the same thing. I would just stick with Wix/Nappa Gold. Almost everyone I know who is serious about the engines they build runs them.Originally Posted by carotman
Honda uses Honeywell filters. I'm not going to get into it but they are hands down the best filter for a honda engine.
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
honeywell owns fram=new US Honda filters. they are not the same as the old ones, or the same as what comes on the cars factory, I wish I could find the site i saw them cut open, but they don't put the good filters on at the dealer, which makes no sense. they are rebranded filters, honda doesn't make them. they used to use filtec, but not anymore. just use the wix, they are the best ones out there period, someone send me a new Honda one for the USDM market and I'll cut it open on the lathe.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-13-2010 at 04:01 PM.
In my Miata, I went through a few filters before I found one I really liked. Having an oil pressure gauge, and sensitive hydraulic lifters really helps tell a story. Fram filters seemed good for about the first 500 miles, then my oil pressure would taper off about 20psi, and I'd get nasty lifter noise on startup. I also tried the Tough Guard ones, and some other brand with the same success, then switched to the Wix filters. The Wix would give me good pressure for the full 3000 miles, and same with Mobil 1. The Mobil 1 filters were a little easier to come by, so I pretty much just went between those an Wix. I'm planning on getting a pressure gauge for the hatch to see what the story is there too.
bosch was good then got bought out, the main problem with the frams and clones of the frams, are the cardboard glued in end caps, which disintegrate in hot oil, and the weak antidrain back valve, it's plastic, most of them fail quickly and the oil bypasses the filter for most of it's life. they also have very weak cans, bad threads, and they like to burst under start up oil pressure. the fram cans are like squeezing a coke can, the good filters such as the wix are much stronger. since they are made by honeywell , the new Honda filters are fram inside. they only own one oil filter production facility. what we need is to find a member in Japan who can ship cases of the factory JDM filters here. Totally different filter. it's the same reason, we didn't get digital dashes, and B20's in the Accord here, Honda keeps the best for Japan and other countries. maby around the first of this month, I will try to get a factory filter, a fram, and a wix, and cut them open for pictures.
The whole oil filter discussion cracks me up. I have used so many different filters over 21 years I can't even tell you at this point which one might be "better." I also have used a variety of synthetic oils since oil change #1 on this car. I don't guess I could ask for much more out of this engine. I currently use Shell Rotella synthetic 5W40 (Group III) because it slips the least oil past my worn valve guides. My current filter is an online purchased NPN filter. I go 10,000 miles between oil changes - as I have done since about 1994. These days, oil and filters are the least of your problems and should be the least of your worries.
I've cut some of these filters apart before, they are junk inside. two of the most important things to your engine are quality oil and a good filter, there is nothing that affects the life of the engine more then that. why go cheap? a few bucks extra per oil change goes a long way, these are very well engineered precision built engines, that's why they last so long. There are just a few filter makers left in the US, one of them is honeywell which makes a lot of filters branded under different names with the guts of the fram. It's well known that the wix are well made quality filters, Like I said, when I can get a few I'll take them apart to show you what I mean by the quality difference. do you really want a filter that lets pieces of cardboard get into your engine, or bypasses after a short time letting dirty oil circulate?
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-13-2010 at 06:29 PM.
I forgot to mention, i had a rig made up with a factory oil filter base from a different car, and a pressure gauge for air pressure, by using a regulator and slowly increasing air pressure, you can see when the bypass opens by watching the air pressure gauge. on the fram filters it usually opened around 20 psi, basically all the time on these engines. I'll have to make another one, I do have a remote filter base around here somewhere
are you sure it's not just your valve stem seals? when they go bad on these engines you will go through a bunch of oil. they cook in place then crack and fall off, especially the exhaust ones. I had a terrible smoking problem develop one time, it turned out to be nearly every exhaust stem seal was shot out. fixed them, and never had an issue again, if you know the rope trick, you can replace them on the car without even needing shop air. they have a little clearance, especially when the engine is cold, and the intake stroke can suck oil past the guides if oil has been seeping into them.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-13-2010 at 08:12 PM.
Hi, edit button.
Im with DBmaster..i really think the oil/filter should be the least of worries..ive seen plenty of high mile vehicles that run fram filters and cheapo wal mart oil and have no problems. My father just picked up a chevy truck from the original owner (has 190k miles), and all he ever ran was fram filters an cheap oil and the thing runs awesome...alot of this crap is internet hearsay, and should be taken with a grain of salt.
I wish the NTPOG oil filter comparison thread was still up with the pictures, they took apart a bunch of filters and compared the construction and materials. you can see the difference if you open up these filters. it's all hidden in the can. there are plenty of real world horror stories on the frams, I have some myself. I wish I still had the engine with the ruined bearing due to the piece of fram that clogged an oil passage, I'm not trying to start an argument, like I said, I will cut some cans open and let people see for themselves. a picture is worth more then an argument. The fram are just crap, the reason you see them everywhere is they are cheap, and people don't know better, or care, oil change places love them because they are cheap, and they get more profit.
Its not even worth trying anymore...
I got 10 oil filters for 10 dollars from advance when they switched to the "new" purolators
Link to the OEM installed JDM filters I use.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-PC6-004.html
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
This?? http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/old_filters.shtml
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
the pictures are back up, finally!! if anyone thinks there's no difference, enlarge the picture of the fram, then the wix, that bypass valve is what opens if the filter clogs, on the frams they open if the filter isn't clogged, when this happens the oil bypasses the filter, the canadian made Honda filter is just a renamed fram, all USDM dealers only carry that filter now. they even have the same stamping numbers as the fram
Like I said above I use the JDM filter TOYO ROKI. Not the Canadian one or USDM.
I can't read the signature rules so MrBen deleted my signature.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks