not according to napaonline..27/26 splines, with the same thread size as the 3g/integra..
damn, I was hoping someone would solve this for me, but it looks like I'll be spending some time at a junkyard, trying to mix and match axle components..
edit: I might have actually found someone who can assemble an axle for me using all factory parts, with no core charge..
..as lil jon would say, Yeaayuhh!!
we'll see though..
Last edited by Accordtheory; 03-31-2006 at 03:33 PM.
I am not talking about splines. I am talking about diameter. The integra is much bigger.
Legend, how are those conversion kits comming along?
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Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD
We have it all planned out. He is making a sub harness for the ecu with a piggy-back wire that runs into the engine bay and runs to the distributor. I plan on removing my vacuume box and EGR also. I dont want to whore up this thread so I will make a new thread when I get the harness made.
The axle you compared had 27/26 splines? I found 2 different spline counts for prelude axles, 27/26 and 25/24.. I would hope that if the ends of the axle are a certain size (a certain spline count), the rest of the axle will more or less match it..
I switch out my passenger side axle with the 86-89 integra axle. It works liek a freakin charm. I think the Drivers side 90-93 integra axle will actually hold up to the stress, but it wouldent hurt to be about an inch or so longer. I will let you guys know when the drivers side axle wears out and how many miles it lasted. Thanks again Accordtheory for checking on that axle.
I though you said your driver side axle pulled itself apart or out of the tranny or something..wtf
I wasn't even going to attempt to drive the car with that axle, it was so short the tranny end came apart as I was installing it..23.5" is just not long enough.
I have a feeling that the axle was defective on the drivers side. The ring that snaps the axle into the halfshaft was not there (and I dident notice on the install day), so the axle must have pulled out and then flopped around a bit untill it snapped (i was going 70MPH down the highway). The new axle seems to be working alright, but will probaly wear out quick due to being a little short. I dident have to stretch mine as far as it sounds like you did. It was nowhere near coming apart. I jsut dosent have much play once installed. So nobody gets confused I am only talking about the drivers side 90-93 integra axle
well, good luck with that new axle..
hey, what did you do to mount your ecu? Mine is just flopping around under my seat, banging against my j&s safeguard..I guess I'll have to fab something to hold everything in place..
Another thing: obd-1, 92-95, supposed to have that cold idle increase valve thing on the bottom of the TB? I have a 90 TB, it doesn't have that. I also have 2 other TBs, and they don't have it either..damn it. My engine is running like absolute shit, it won't even idle until it's warm, and even then it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. #1 hardly even makes a difference when I pull the injector clip or plug wire..and 150psi of compression when the others are 180, 180, 190..I think the valves are too tight..
My Ecu is dangling also, because I want to be able to access it easily. Mine dosent seem to bang against anything though.As for the thermo vavle, it shouldent make a difference. I just bypassed mine, because it was defective. for the compression test. I wouldent think the valves would change the comp that much. Are you sure you dont have a HG leak or a bad piston ring?
Well, they valves were tight, but the damn thing still won't idle or run worth shit overall..this is making me so pissed. I know I have different year sensors and ecu, but the sensors I checked, coolant and IAT, have the same part # on napaonline, so wtf. I also tried 2 different style map sensors, same thing. The engine will rev up initially but then stall until it's warm. Then it will idle roughly until something happens where it just acts like the ecu is trying to kill it, with the rpm dropping down to like 300. It doesn't die though, it just barely recovers in time and goes back up to around 750rpm, or whatever it's normal is. I tried adjusting the idle screw in the TB, and unplugging the pcs vacuum hose to give it more air to simulate the cold idle increase valve that it doesn't have, but that made it run even worse. When I open the throttle, it bogs and doesn't rev smoothly, and then if I hold it open above idle, it cuts out and drops off until I let it close, then it goes back into idling shitty. Normally that would tell me map or tps, but I've substituted both, by changine the entire TB. Ugh! No codes except for 20, the electrical load detector thing. I don't have any idea wtf that is. I want to try a 95 ls TB, since that's what my ecu is from.
I should note that I don't have the exhaust fully connected, just the manifold and downpipe. But still, I have never seen an engine run That bad because of just that.
Sounds to me like your only running on 3 cylinders and need to fix that first. Then that way you can fix everything else. Do you have your o2 sensor hooked up? Your stalling sounds like an ICV. Located on the back of your IM, It would cause for your idle to be REAL low or stall when cold. Try swapping that out and see whats happens.
Ok try what masterkillaw said, check for spark and fuel on all cylinders. As for my problem I had was the wrong gasket on the TB and that made the car idle very roughly, put your hand on the TB while the car is ideling and see if the car idles down or even suckes in your hand (if you dont have a vaccume leak the the TB will suck the hell out of your hand). As for the ELD it is located in the fuse box of the civics and integras. I just used chrome to turn off the ELD in the fuse box. Try cleaning out the IACV with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush. If all this dosent help we need to start looking at the TB
I know the idle air control thing is ok because if it wasn't it wouldn't rev up initially. Several of my exhaust valves were tight, bleeding the cylinder press into the exhaust. I just kept putting off doing the lash adjustment because I couldn't find my feeler guages, until I forgot I hadn't done it at all..but I could tell from the way it sounded in the exhaust what it was.
I know it is an electronic problem now. I just don't know wtf it is..what would cause it to rev up like normal when started but then stall right away after the rpm comes back down? I would think it would be lack of the cold idle thing..I guess I'm about to try to get a 95 ls TB..
..I better measure my coolant temp sensor with a meter too..
This is really annoying, because I'm going to replace all of this shit anyway with a vtec head, etc, etc. I'm wasting effort getting 2 combinations running..stupid california smog laws. I want a 70mm TB to go with my bbk IM, and it's not going to have any coolant lines going through it.. I should be able to make it run ok without it in the programming though..
I put my new axle in today, accord shaft with integra end..unfortunately, I still can't drive the car, it refuses to run well enough. I tried changing the TA, TW, still no effect. Also double checked most of the wiring too. officially clueless.
I bypassed the thermo valve, but I still had to have it installed to make it work right. There was a small plastic piece inside that had to be tightend down to make the car run right. Have you check for vaccume leaks? Are all you spark plug wire hooked up right? have you checked for a leaking injector?
I'm bet it's something stupid like the tps and map connections backwards on the obd0 jumper..
damn rain..I wanted to get something done on this today..
well, it was the wrong injectors, I don't know what the hell they are. I thought all hondas were 240cc, except fot the prelude and s2000..they're acting like they're a lot bigger than that. My friend who gave them to me said they were integra injectors..
..the idle is still going up and down until it's warm though, but f it..
Congrats dude, it took me about a week or two to get mine running well.
DO NOT RUN A 90-93 integra drivers side axle. I just ripped another one in half (thanks to autozone for there lifetiem warenty). I am going to dallas tommarow to have a custom axle made. If you would like one made I will get it done slap mine in, make sure it works, then have them made. All I will need is a new 90-93 integra axle, shipping, and $59.95. The guy at Axle king is going to make them for me.
In told you not to! I already have a custom axle in place. Hopefully it's legit. I wanted the prelude shaft with the accord and integra ends, but just ended up with an integra end on the accord axle. Looks like it's ok though, but I still haven't driven the car, no exhaust..
+ I want the damn gsr head and type r cams, I might just buy that shit on ebay and then start driving it so the ls slowness won't be so annoying..
You could just turbo the LS for the time being. I got my new custom axle in there, but it is to long and needs to be reworked. They used integra inner and outer pieces with a 98-00 accord shaft.
how much did you pay for yours? I paid $105 shipped, no core charge either
$110.00 I drove to dallas with the old axle and they used the pieces off of that. It would have been $59.95, but the accord axle that he used was more expensive then most axles.
Legend, the 86-89 Integra pass. side axle is what we need? I took my motor out yesterday and I think the guy that sold me all my PRI stuff gave me the wrong axles. I already replaced the driver side with a true PRI axle last year because it was too long. I think my pass. axle was too short. The axle was coming out of the boot on the tranny end. Grease all over the tranny case. I need a new one but need to know if the 86-89 teg axle is the answer.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
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