sorry for starting a new thread cuz i know there is one already here by somebody with a similar problem but nobody is responding to that thread...... so check this one out let my know what u think... https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=46866
sorry for starting a new thread cuz i know there is one already here by somebody with a similar problem but nobody is responding to that thread...... so check this one out let my know what u think... https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=46866
would the choke heater thing cause the reving?
????
lil help??
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Anyway... your electric choke heater operates on alternator power, so it will only warm up and open the choke (and release the fast idle) when the engine is running. If the alternator isn't working and generating charging current (thus causing the ALT light to come on), then the choke heater isn't working, and the choke will stay closed and keep the car at fast idle.
i started up the car today and let it run a while. i did the alt test and took off the neg batt. cable and the car didnt turn off so i guess that some good news. the car still runs bad. how do i fix the choke heater? i should probably try to check the wire harness on the alt to its just hard to get to...... see if the link to the other thread works now ..https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46866
Not sure I'd consider this to be good news.
Pulling the ground strap off a battery on a running automobile that's equipped with an alternator can damage the diodes in the battery. The business of pulling the ground strap off the battery of a running car was done when generators were in use.
Generartors were replaced with alternators many years ago.
Lester
well i still gotta problem. not sure how to fix the choke heater if that is the problem...............
Last edited by 3rdCoast; 02-16-2006 at 11:23 AM.
If the ALT light is still on, then no, the choke heater isn't the problem... both these are just symptoms of the same problem.
Take your car to an alternator shop and have them test the thing PROPERLY. Chances are you've got a fried regulator.
i have to take the alt out to do that right? or can the autozone test pick something like this up?
They shouldn't have to remove the alt to do a load test. I know the connections on mine are (somewhat) accessible without needing to pull the thing out - last time I rebuilt it, I did it from under the car without even removing the pivot bolt
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