Bunch of Questions All At Once...

[TechnoGecko]

I've got an 88 Accord Hatchback w/. 165k on the clock. Everything has been going suprisingly well up until the past week here. The car began to loose power steering fluid, and I noticed the whole side of the engine was covered in it. It appears that it is leaking from a low pressure hose on to the belts, and then getting sprayed all over the engine. However, at the same time my A/C no longer works. Unfort I don't have a fuse diagram for the box inside the driver footwell, but it blows the 4th fuse over from the left ( the 10A ) I believe. Hitting the A/C button will cause the compressor to kick in for a second, and I can see the clutch engage but only for 4-5 seconds before it blows the fuse again.

On a seperate issue this car has always been a little odd with its fast idle. When I first bought the car it would occasionally fast idle even after warming up but would always shut off by tapping the gas. However, now it fast idles almost all the time and stays there. In the past few days it's been idling as high as 4,000. I decided I would just take it in the dealer to have them look it over for their flat $50 diagnostic charge due to being really busy this week.

Just heard back from them. They're dicking me around to say the least. They say the power steering system is gone and needs to be replaced, pump, rack, and all hoses. Yet when I asked, they couldn't tell me where it is leaking from. They say the fast idle is caused by a bad carb and that it has to be replaced, and that the entire A/C system is destroyed - that the compressor, clutch, clutch coil, and all hoses need to be replaced. Total, $3300

Now, considering I paid $600 for the car I just started laughing. Anyway, I told them not to worry about it and I would come pick it up. So, in a nutshell i'm looking for any detailed advice as to where I should start looking to resolve these issues.


1. What is causing the fast idle? Specifically, what vac hoses control that - they're cheap so I might as well just replace them rather than guess if theyre good anymore. Also, it isnt that hard to clean the carb, guess I just need to sitdown this weekend and do it and see if that makes any difference.

2. A/C. Not sure where to start. There is a pouch of wires by the driver headlamp that clips in to a clip on the front of the car and is covered by a plastic cover. From there 1 wire runs down to the compressor I believe. Whats this for? The entire thing is soaked in power steering gunk, so I need to get it apart and clean it - possibly shorting out there... I dont think its the compressor as it has worked perfectly for almost a year and it still kicks in for a few seconds when I hit the a/c button.

3. Power steering. High pressure hose has been replaced already when we bought the car, so I know its not that. Any other common leak points that would cause it to drip on the belts and get thrown everywhere?

Thanks in advance guys. Got a rather large project ahead of me...

[Hondaisok]

1. Carburetor probably needs rebuilding.
2. Don't know.
3. I bet your p/s pump is leaking. (mine did same thing, belts throwing fluid everywhere. There is a seal, but high mileage pumps probably should be replaced. Good luck!

[TechnoGecko]

Thanks. Pump was replaced with an aftermarket one a little over a year and 10,000 miles ago - just before I bought the car. I'll have to take another peak at the pump - I was fairly sure it wasnt leaking, but ill double check.

... anyone have some insight in to the A/C? Can the clutch be disconnected from the compressor, or is it one entire piece? Also, can the clutch coil be replaced seperately?

Thanks

[joebeets]

1. What is causing the fast idle? Specifically, what vac hoses control that - they're cheap so I might as well just replace them rather than guess if theyre good anymore. Also, it isnt that hard to clean the carb, guess I just need to sitdown this weekend and do it and see if that makes any difference.

If you have an auto your frequency solenoid c may not be supplying vacuum to the throttle positioner (top center) to retract it. Unretracted, it blocks the throttle from closing beyond the "start" position, or about 1/3 open. Test is to try to close it by hand during this fast idle. Or disconnect hose 20 from positioner; it should have vacuum with engine running.

[TechnoGecko]

Sorry, it is a 5 speed - not auto. Not sure if what you said still applies.

[joebeets]

Sorry, it is a 5 speed - not auto. Not sure if what you said still applies.

Oh. Well you should still try to determine if the throttle is being held open. It almost certainly is--four grand is a lot of air. How to troubleshoot the mechanism responsible is another story; the kickdown is complicated, operating in stages according to coolant temp, using thermal vacuum valves connected to vacuum motors.

You'll need a Mighty Vac and some idea of what you're doing.

[TechnoGecko]

#1 - If you're technically adept you can rebuild the carb. No guarantee that it's the main cause of the idle issue, but it wouldn't be too far off the bat.
Check around for any vacuum leaks. At the very least, clean it up good.

#2 - Get a can of engine degreaser, bottle of "Gas Engine Oil Tracer" (AC Delco part #10-5003), and a black light. Clean up around the PS pump and hoses. Start up the car and have someone turn the wheel continuously for you.
Turn on your black light and trace around the suspect areas. (This should be done at night or in a dark garage)

#3 - PS fluid should not be conductive. It's a specialty oil. Something else along the pathway is causing a short.

#4 - Quit going on DALnet.

1. Ya, I plan on rebuilding it anyway. 165k on it and still going, so its time for a rebuild either way.

2. Going to check for the leak this weekend, already ordered the bottle of dye.

3. Thats what I thought too, but its the only thing I can think of - especially since the A/C went out when the PS started leaking.

4. Do I know you from Dalnet? Haven't been on in years...

[TechnoGecko]

Anyone know if the A/C clutch is removable from the compressor, as well as the coil?

[fraza]

check the wire loom behind the headlight that goes to the relay and diode pack, my loom there got destroyed by my belts

[Kabuki]

Yes, the compressor clutch can be replaced, but it requires removal of the compressor to do so. Skilled techs can remove the compressor, but keep the system pressurized and hoses connected...

[lionel]

yes you can pull out the a/C clutch and coil from the compressor and you can do it without unconnecting the hoses and discharging the system. You do need to unbolt the compressor from the engine though, and you need a special tool (which you can make) to hold the clutch assembly when un/tightening the clutch bolt.

[TechnoGecko]

Considering a compressor is only $85 on eBay and the clutch and coil is $45, I might as well just replace the entire damm thing I guess.

I assume the 1 wire that breaks out of the loom by the driver headlight and goes to the compressor is the wire to trigger the solenoid to engage the clutch? It appears to be knicked ever so slightly, but it isn't shorting out against anything. Wondering if that would blow a fuse.. I doubt it, but ya never know.

Any other diagnostic ideas would be great. I'm 99% sure its a wiring issue...