That isn't aluminum is it? least I don't think it was... it was some fiber hose.
That isn't aluminum is it? least I don't think it was... it was some fiber hose.
- llia
The mystery continues...
So I (sort of) figured out why the car was flooding and dying at idle: something was leaking gas down into the primary which of course, was causing a high idle right up until it started flooding... revving up would burn off the excess and let it idle better for a few seconds again. I say "sort of" because I'm not entirely sure where it was leaking from; right-rear-most hat screw might have been a little loose.
So, opened the carb up again, checked that everything was clean... discovered the float level was WAY too high (past the top of the inspection window even with the float removed and the front of the car higher than the back!) and the secondary venturi booster was a bit loose.
Took care of all that, put it all back together... now we're back to a nice even idle of 750. I was also going to post that my new-found "pep" was gone again, but on a subsequent run to the store, it seemed to be at least partially back... I'd REALLY like to know WTF is going on with that! Can sure feel it when the secondary kicks in though, so I guess it's working well...
You might still have a float o-ring leak... if it's only leaking internally only one o-ring is busted. It will seal and leak sporaticly untill fixed and it makes adjustin the float impossible because the float level will be set right one moment then will overflow when the o-ring shifts around. On a broken o-ring it is possible to set the float level so low that the leak itself supplies fuel to the carb float bowl which really messes with you because the float level looks right but really it's not even close.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5350
- llia
Don't think so... as I noted, it's not flooding anymore.
It doesn't have to.. thats all I was saying.
- llia
you're probably right A20A....I've seen these aluminum hoses in the auto parts store, and Have used them for the hot air tube in the past, but the original was probably some other material, like fiber....
I think the aluminum ones work though....they can handle the temperatures of the manifold (though not forever of course), and they're flexible and stiff at the same time, so you can kind of set it and forget it. Plus I kind of like the way they look.
Have you bought one of the fiber ones? are they expensive? I'd imagine they are probably more durable than the ones I'm talking about.
No never bought one... it's a honda oem.. .blah blah blah, that will probably cost you 3x as much as it should.
- llia
MAN im glad our NZ new cars dont have emission control crap..im also glad we dont have emission checks over herei just finished ripping the emission control crap off a zc and it goes so much faster. Damn Laws
Nah, float level seems to be stabilized as well... it was just set way too high.Originally Posted by A20A1
I still get sputters when holding the pedal near cruising-to-slight-deceleration but it seems to have most of its pep back as well. Overall seems to be a Happy Honda again!
Maybe I should start a pool on what's gonna break next... :P
lol....I think I'll see if the aluminum ones will fit....
A20A: I was looking at this hot air tube junction on the bottom of the main air breather....where the heck does the other end go? I thought I had found it under the manifold, but that had something attached to it that swivels....
hrmmm....it would appear I am missing a piece from my exhaust manifold...the shroud....has the attachment for the hot air pipe on it. I don't see it on my manifold :-(
oh wow....the oxygen sensor mounts on that cover too.....that sucks....lol
holy crap....half the nuts are missing off the exhaust manifold.....and the long mounting bolt on the ac compressor is also missing....damn compressor is flapping in the breeze....no wonder I don't have ac.
would the missing manifold nuts cause any problems other than a noisy exhaust? I assume they would lower the back pressure and cause other problems.... I know they're 12mm, but what inside dia. and thread?
Last edited by Whistler225; 04-09-2006 at 05:33 AM.
NM on the nut size....it's listed in the manual duh...8x1.25mm......
well, the car runs without that shroud right now, and looks like the oxygen sensor is still plugged into the manifold.
I'll definitely be replacing those 8mm nuts....Majestic sells them for 1.85, and the washer for 2.64....wonder how crucial it is to buy the "special" nuts and washers.
The shroud is 50 bucks....will have to wait a week or two.
The hot air tube is 36.50....you were right A20A....about three times what it should be.
Last edited by Whistler225; 04-09-2006 at 05:46 AM.
Well, I put new nuts on the bottom of my exhaust manifold....I think I may have solved part of my idle problem in the process. I warmed up the engine, and the idle remained at 1k rpm like it's supposed to. Now it's a little rougher than it was before, but I think I'm closing in on it....
Hey kids, just another update here... I was doing some work on my car the other day, wanted to give it a Seafoam treatment, so was looking for an appropriate vacuum line (one that feeds BOTH sides of the intake manifold). Started pulling the lines off between the maze of pipes and the "black box" to see if I could find a good amount of vacuum on any... and discovered a little piece of SOMETHING blocking one of the pipes. Managed to pry that out, then continued checking the hoses... and found the same one holed right where it attached at the bottom of the throttle body.
My suspicion is that when it got blocked (by whatever), the vacuum sucked a hole in a weak spot. There wasn't actually any vacuum there at idle, but it goes in right near the bottom of the primary venturi, so I wonder if it might only trigger at higher speeds, maybe something to control the secondary, thus preventing that from kicking in properly.
In any case, unblocking that line and replacing the holed pipe has made a big difference - the "pep" is more consistent, not so much "lagging" now, and of course, since it didn't have vacuum at idle, there was none of the usual "whistling" sound that one would normally use to track down a vacuum leak.
That's actually the third vac hose I've replaced now that looks like it's been "melted", collapsed, or just plain crumbled away. If I feel really ambitious one day, it might be an idea to just replace them all.
Edit: FYI, I think it was the #7 line - the blockage was in the end of the pipe where the hose from the black box connects; the holed segment was the short piece from the other end of that pipe to the base of the carb.
Last edited by Soundy; 10-05-2006 at 08:58 AM.
Sorry I'm so late on posting on this, but I'm kinda new at this. I'm having the same sort of problem as the ones posted earlier this year but a little different. I have an 87 lx and it shudders badly, like someone learning to drive a manual trans, on acceleration after it is at opperating temp. It mainly happens in 3rd and 4th gear. But when I push in the clutch it revs fine. No dragging like the others have posted. I just purchased it so I have no idea whats been done to it. Any ideas what it could be?
tropper if you have done a search I would make a brand new thread with a nice title that might get you more looks.
wp
I would but I don't want to step on any toes, or making anyone mad, by posting the same type of thing on two different ones. It's not something i need a fast reply on. I can live with the problem for now.
I have been having this problem starting with yesterday. It was raining yesterday morning, about 45 degrees. Normal until it had been running for about 15 minutes. It started loosing power. In fact, with it in neutral, it wouldn't rev up until I had the gas pedal almost fully depressed, suggesting it was only getting air through the secondary. It also burned fuel at an alarming rate. Very foggy this morning, and it did the same thing. I also noticed that it was missing slightly at cruise just before the problem surfaced. I am thinking carb icing at this point, though this is the first time that this has happened. Though I have driven in the rain before when conditions where cool. I am going to add some heat when I buy fuel this morning. I will see if it responds. I have quite abit of driving to do today, so I hope it gets better. If anyone comes up with an answer. I am excited to know.
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