Spongy Pedal After Brake Bleeding

[Lester Lugnut]

Vehicle -> 1987 Honda Accord Lx - Automatic - Carb

Had master cyl. replaced in Aug. '05 - fluid level was starting to drop.

Last week I replaced the rear shoes as they were worn and also replaced wheel cyls. as they were leaking. The next day I decided to just go full circle and replace front pads as well.

I bled using the pump-pedal method and followed the wheel sequence: LF -> RR -> RF -> RR as outlined in the FSM.

The brake pedal is not dangerously low, but nowhere near as firm as I would have hoped considering all that's been done.

I did the bleeding with the engine off. Nothing in the factory manual indicated the engine needed to be idling while doing this as is recommended in some makes.

Has anyone had any better luck bleeding this yr/make/model with the engine idling?

Thanks for your time.

[88LXi68]

I have always bled the brakes with the car off. You probably just need to bleed them again considering you replaced the cylinders. When I put new lines and calipers on an Integra it took 2 separate occasions to get a good firm pedal.

[88Accord-DX]

Replacement of the master cylinder should have been bench bled. Sounds like air in the system. Try bleeding them again as mentioned. Anytime you replace wheel cylinders or break into the system, bleeding is needed.

To test your brake booster, pump the the brakes, hold the pedal down. Start your car, if the brake pedal drops any when you start it, the brake booster is bad.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Definately the wrong sequence to bleed them in IMO, bleed them starting furthest from the master cylinder... thats how I have always done it and it works perfect.

So... right rear, left rear, right front, left front. should solve the problem

[Oldblueaccord]

Make sure your rear shoes are adjusted all the way tight to the drums. The drums should be very hard to remove if there adjusted right but not locked on there.

The bleeding sequence listed in the FSM is correct due to the way Honda proportional valves work.


wp

[Lester Lugnut]

To test your brake booster, pump the the brakes, hold the pedal down. Start your car, if the brake pedal drops any when you start it, the brake booster is bad.

Actually it's just the opposite, your pedal should drop a bit. This is documented in many service manuals.

If you adj. rears 'til the drum can't be pulled off, you'll wear out the rear shoes in no time at all because the shoes are in constant contact with the drum. The drum must spin somewhat freely or you'll burn up the rear shoes.

I likely need to rebleed as suggested. I'll try using my MityVac. If that doesn't firm up the pedal, I'll find a shop that can pressure bleed. I had a local independent do this once on a Toyota truck and the pedal was very firm afterwards. I should probably forego the vacuum MityVac approach and just have the pressure bleed done.

Thanks for the replies.

[88Accord-DX]

Actually it's just the opposite, your pedal should drop a bit.

Yeah, I said that backwards. Have slight dislexia when I'm drunk. LOL