Well... it's a Honda...

[88Accord-DX]

You should do a compression check with a screw type compression gauge, warm the car up to oprerating temperature so the rings expand first. I wouldn't be concerned with the first reading, but after 4 or 5 revolutions of the motor. The compression gauge has a pressure releif valve so it holds pressure untill you release it. That is the how I take compression tests on vehicles.

Interesting what your instructor is talking about, but ASE tests will not see that as significant readings though.

[Deadhead]

i'm not saying it's incredible by any means..

The gauge has a problem somewhere, i'm not sure where because i haven't taken a look at it again. The pressure release button was not pressed when doing this... so it's something to do with the seal. And yes it's a screw in type.

The pressure usually doubles after about 4-5 revolutions of the motor from the first revolution.

so yeah, i'll get better readings... oh, and that was with the engine cold, i couldn't warm it up ----> dealership was being bitchy.

[racerx]

alright man, but being a physics major, i can tell you that the 50% percent rule is just someone's best guess, and not at all scientific.

that has to do with volume, atmospheric pressure, velocity of air, wind resistance, friction, the amount of imperfection in your rings, pistons, valves, etc... there's just WAY too many variables involved to make a neat, little rule like that. and besides that, there's also a hug difference between engines...

but maybe 50% is "generally" close on most engines... who knows...

[Deadhead]

haha ok, that's just what i was taught...

[Tecknixia]

You did rotor/cap/plugs but not wires?

Seems like you are getting plenty of fuel and air... and unless the wires are bad you're getting spark... next thing I would consider is timing.

Unless it's just WAY too much fuel in which case perhaps you have a stuck open injector?

Edit:

The car doesn't run well at all. It starts, but dies immediatly. You have to hold the gas until it's warmed up. Then it idle's ok.

Oh, well, in this case, maybe you are running lean until warm... in that case it sounds like the IACV was the problem, since it was stuck open, it was giving you a lot more air then fuel. There should also be a temperature sensor that tells the ecu to inject more fuel when the car is cold.

ALSO. I went outside after it would not start. I parked it there for several hours and it being freezing cold out. I tried to start it, fired up like a new car!

Then after i killed it, i tried to start it again, it did not start. It is definately getting TOO MUCH FUEL.

Ok, now I remember why I said what I said at the beginning of this post... ugh, I'm confused now. Since it's a good idea to anyways, I would replace the spark plug wires just in case.

Edit 2: Btw, did you ever find out what code you're getting with the CEL being on?

[Deadhead]

I've already decided the IACV is the problem. It is stuck CLOSED. Too much fuel and not enough air.
Also, the o2 sensor is another part of the problems.
Just waiting on parts.

The CEL has not been checked yet, but will be soon.

I know the IACV is bad because the car didn't die when i unplugged the plug on the lower part of the motor. It was more than likely stuck closed as the car was getting too much fuel and on a full tank was getting about 200 miles out of it.

The o2 sensor is probably also a cluprit seeing as the o2 on the manifold is brand new and the one on the cat is old. My guess is that code came up and they replaced the one on the manifold. Thinking that there was a glitch with the light not going off, they decided to take out the light on the dash to pass inspection.

I am just waiting on parts and tires... then we will know what code the computer has stored, I'll keep you guys updated.

[myaccord7]

i cant see it, you need bigger pictures.!




ha
zach