i want to do the a20a3 to b20a swap into my 88 lxi, but i have really no clue on what all i would need to do to complete this change...and also i have no idea on costs...i cant seem to find any info on buying a b20a...so any and all help is great...also, mechanic costs are no need, i will do everything myself with the help of my dad...
your biggest expense and problem will probably be finding a b20a. if you want to swap engines soon, then maybe you don't want to do a b20a because they take forever to find. then, you think you found one and it turns out to be automatic (unless you don't mind and would just swap it to manual later on). but, i think there may be one for sale in the for sale forum so check there. you might wanna try and see if you can get one imported from somewhere other than japan. possibly the phillipines, malaysia, australia, new zeland, europe might export a b20a to you. check around with different importers and see. and the engine would probably cost about $1000 or so shipped from most of those places. they're not in as high a demand as the b16a or h22a is.
You can find B20A motor with auto tranny everywhere. I think there is a post with B20A available in Australia.
You will have rewire your engine wire harness, use diff distributor, and upgrade to new ECU.
You are looking at major money. I would say set aside about $5000 for it.
Remember, just because that engine makes more power, it will eat up your money later in repairs. Most parts will have to be ordered from Japan.
So, you may want to ask yourself if it would be worth it.
You may want to think about turbo or supercharge (haven't been done to my knowledge) your A20A3 engine.
if you want more power, consider headers, full exhaust, new cam, and upgraded ignition.
Alex.
I got at lest $5000.00 in to my B20a project and it not even in yet it mat be cheaper to go b16 .
Last edited by TWOLOUDNPROUD; 02-21-2006 at 08:08 PM.
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
ok...thanks for the info...exp cost info...
so, if the costs that sheppard gave me are correst, them i just may go the bolt on route....
also, will changing internals help the a20a3 out with power???
rebuilding the engine will help the power big time.
Before you do anything, think which direction you will take your engine. this way you won't be waisting money as i have seen many people do.
In the future are you going turbo or are you going to stay NA?
depending on that answer you can start building your engine.
Consider regrind camshaft to give you some extra power, upgrade ignition coil for more spark, headers and exhaust.
If you are going to rebuild engine, spend some money on porting and polishing the cylinder head for extra power.
Alex.
i want to go the N/A route mainly because i dont have the money for a turbo, or supercharger, and i dont want to melt my engine with NOS...
i have already rebuilt the engine, but i didnt go with port polishes, so i think i might rebuild again, do polishes, and completely upgrade ignition...i am also debating on getting new "better" cams, valve springs, rockers, and such...
i recently built, yes built myself a short ram intake, and i hope to eventualy get new headers, and header back exhaust...
any opinions here??
I also have a 88 lxi, mines a hatch but I plan on staying the NA route as well, I'm still trying to figure out what rockers and cam to use. I wouldn't mind having myself a drifter. But while your building don't forget to upgrade the suspension and braking if you haven't already done so. My next project is to find some SEI rear disks so I can have disk brakes all around.
The thing you need is to upgrade to a programable computer. Even with a stock computer you will only make around 130hp with bolt ons. The distributor is a vacuum advance and you need something like OBD1 conversion. Search around the site they have a performance parts thread. The thing about the A20 is that they dont make many parts and half of it has to be custom or modified to fit.Originally Posted by LXi_tuner
just noticed the date of the original thread. Yes. my first upgrade was EBC rotors and pads with SS brake lines. Now i have the ITR set up on my car and it still stops better than most cars. Se-i set up is a must if you want optimal braking.
Last edited by MessyHonda; 12-29-2015 at 08:56 PM. Reason: its been almost 9 years...lol
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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