ok ive searched weber install q's

[mykwikcoupe]

flame me if you want all the links with pics seem to be down. Im a fuel injection guy im not sure hwere all these ports are or aything. Im installing a weber dgav electric choke on the wifeys 89 lx.

My biggest question is what did everyone else do with the wires. Theres a plug that connects to the stock carb base. did you cut it or what, just let it hang.

Next is what vac lines can i get rid of. She uses this car as a daily driver and it sees alot of miles. She needs to keep her a/c and cruise control but I want as many line gone as possible. Id prefer pics or numbers matching the stock vac numbers please. Im new at carbs here

In the how to on the weber install theres a pic of a cable routing that you dont need the tranny kickdown cable is that catually a honda cable or a diagram of something id need to make. Im trying to adapt the stock linkages to the weber and its looking a little tricky to say the least.

edit!!!!!
ok so as im reading another thread im realizing I should be rewording my qiestions here. If i remove the black box and everything connected to it, how do i keep the vac advance, cc, and ac going?
Theres the vac port on the back of the intake manifold.

the port on the weber

the port of the thermostat Im guessing these are thermovalves?

The diszzy ports obviously and the ac and cc

Other than that if theres anything else ill let you know later. please help mike

[A20A1]

you strip the intake manifold bare...

Are you sure the pics are down?

Cruise control may not work.

A/C will work just fine, the only thing vacuum with A/C was the idle boost to offset the drop in idle when the A/C clutch engaged.
Thing is the Weber has no A/C idle boost diaphragm so you don't use the vacuum for it.


more to come...

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161
weber how to

Remove the black box, don't throw it away though.
Remove the carb and intake manifold.
Clean the manifold
Plug the small coolant hose in the middle of the water pump pipe that runs along the back of the motor.


If the Auto Cable looks like the one in the pic you don't need a TV/Kickdown cable.

If you only have one cable ( Gas Cable ) coming from the firewall then you need to find some way of connecting a cable from the trans to the gas/accelerator pedal.

Preferable it should look close to the way honda did it stock... the only exeption is that you'll be doubling up the Cable End inside the hook on the top of the gas cable to activate both throttle and kickdown.



#25 goes to the rear thermovalve... you'll know which thermovalve is #25 because it will have a #25 on the vacuum line.
The thermovalve is above the Alternator on the intake manifold.
It should have two vacuum ports on it.

#2 goes directly to the manifold from the vacuum advance port.
#25 needs to route thru the themovalve first before conneting to the rear manifold vacuum port.

The pic is different, but is correct for hooking up #2

You have a DGAV, which is a water choke. You will not need the electric choke heater wire.

Instead you will remove a coolant line from the intake manifold, preferable on the side closest to the choke... then route that line to the carb choke and then from the outlet port on the choke back to the intake manifold coolant port.



So basicly if your choke is near coolant hose "A" in the picture, you will remove it from the intake manifold and route it to the carb instead... then go back to the intake manifold.

You need the heater for the intake manifold in order for #25's thermovalve to operate... it also operates your coolant temp sensor gauge inside the car.

Wait, you said electric choke? It should be a DGEV then.

The plug at the base of the carb is an EFE screen, it heats the fuel durring warm up. That base is replaced by the weber adapter plates.

[mykwikcoupe]

yeah its a little weird i noticed it also. the carb says dgav but has an electric choke on it so i think someone before me swapped it out.

ok so just a question. The tree thingy on top of the thermostat housing near the tee in the pic for the dizzy, is that a thermovalve or what is it? Does it need to be capped or left open?

next the auto cable i have is the style with the kickdown at the carb. is there a specific year or model with the cable shown with the kickdown at the pedal. id prefer to swap the cable over mess with linkages.

as for all the vac ports left on the carb that arent removed do they need to be plugged or left alone. With the wiring from the carb the connectors and such what do you do with those. im guessing there linked to something so if they dont see what they need to will they throw a cel or anything?

Other than that thanks very much again Mike you a life savor again. Ill check back i need to have it done and running by sunday so no big hurry yet. Im most worried about the a/c and the pedal cable now.

Are there any ways to adaot an easy solution to the ac? Mike

Oh and why dont you just toss the black box and all after its all up and running. I noticed the warning saying it wont pass emissions. is this for the states that do the under hood check? Mine doesnt just the sniffer test and i think if you tune it right it wont matter if its egr or not right? Mike

[A20A1]

nothing is wrong with AC... cruise controll will be bust though.
You can toss the black box... but inside the box are some components you might want to sell off, rig up, or use for some other purpose,


I don't tknow what year has that cable, I don't think it's year specific... My car was made in Japan though. I didn't have the dual cable combo.

I think someone with the 89 Auto had a dual cable, but my 89 didn't

Nothing will throw a cel... your weber carb is totally independent of any electronic controls, as it should be... though you still have one wire to hook up which is the choke wire.

[mykwikcoupe]

cool thanks alot mike. Im going outside to finish know minus the cable. Im going to swing by honda tomorrow on my way home and see if its a usa made cable. My wifeys 89 is a japan made also. Ill see anyway. Ill just check them all till I find it. Thanks again Mike

[A20A1]

thing is the pedal assembly on the dual cable model is slightly different, it has two knotches to hold the cable ends... one for the trans and one for the accelerator. So you'll have to be careful when doubling up on your pedal assembly, making sure it'll stay put without biting into the cable and cutting it.

Return spring for the carb is very important... with the proper carb linkage set up the pedal should feel hard but not tight. If the linkage isn't set up properly the pedal will feel tight and hard... so something in the linkage isn't right or the cable is binding... it's probably not the fault of the return spring.

[mykwikcoupe]

ok so ive connected #2as stated.
im going to connect #25 to the thermovalve and thats it
im cappin the rest of the rear tree lines and the rest fo the vac lines
dont either 2 or 25 need to go to the carb itself for vac advance? Does anything do to the back of the carb?

More questions though. If I leave the as pipe connected and dont plug the lines coming from the plastic box or the egr will it matter? Or even more if I removed the egr vlave left the opening open in the intake manifold as well as all the as stuff across the top of the intke would it matter at all? Im wondering if those prts are interconnected to anything else?

I removed the abc controller, the black box and everything connected to it. I removed 2 little round deals by the battery that were connected to vac lines. one was laso connected to an electrical harness.

Im wondering, to keep the cc in tack, if I use all the lines existing on them and conncect them all to intake vac or together as they were thrugh the black box minus the controllers would that help any? Thanks again

[A20A1]

you need th EGR valve to stop the exhaust gasses from exiting the pipe... also the Air suction valve that bolts to the intake manifold along the back of the valve cover needs to be there or the pipe will start blowing out exhuast gasses.

The Air suction pipe is very nifty piece... turbo guys could use it to create vacuum for their PCV system... you could uses it to create vacuum for your PCV system... it's cool because it's a good source of vacuum while elliminating the possibility of the PCV valve becoming a vacuum leak.

The air suction though is rather powerful... so without the proper baffles it may suck up oil... keep and eye on the oil level over the course of a week... see if its sucking up oil... and check the tubes to the Air suction pipe.

I think it's good though... using the As valve... also you need to open the AS valve with a vacuum souce. Unfortunately you can't hook it to the venturi vacuum and manifold.... you'll have to settle for manifold vacuum.

[A20A1]

Im wondering, to keep the cc in tack, if I use all the lines existing on them and conncect them all to intake vac or together as they were thrugh the black box minus the controllers would that help any? Thanks again

Try it... here are the black box specs...
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45880