1989 Removing alternator

[1989accordaz]

I need to remove my alternator on my 1989 Accord ( carb) Reading the Chilton manual it says to remove the drive shaft.

How have you done it? Any tips and pointers are appreciated, thanks!

Update: THis is what happened originally, thye battery light came on, and I drove it that way for a couple of days, until it wouldn't start. I jump start it and I let the engine run for a few minutes, then the lights would go dim and it would shutdown. I recharged the battery and it would run ok for a few minutes, then the lights dimmed and it shutdown.

[A20A1]

No you don't need to remove the drive shaft.

You could instead remove the braces that connnect the back of the block to the underside of the intake manifold... you pass the Alternator from the belt side of the motor to the area under the black box with all the vacuum lines... you may have to disconnect the charcoal cannister as well and also may have to remove the heater hoses that connect to the firewall.

[1989accordaz]

I could not, even if my life depended on it, get the f**ing alternator out of the car. I could not even remove any hoses. The space is tight and I have no patience. Removing the alternator from it's bracket is easy.

So I ended up removing the drive shaft, is easier for me. I took the alternator to Autozone for testing and it tests OK!

I need to put the alternator back in the car, recharge the battery, drive it to Autozone for a couple of miles before it shuts down and have the alternator tested in the car.

[A20A1]

Maybe it just the battery.

[1989accordaz]

Could be, I had my battery tested and it tested OK. The Alternator also tested OK. Now I need to take the car so both can get tested while in the car.

My problem now is, the ball joint with the casstle nut at the lower arm. The puller bent the threaded side of the bolt while disconnecting the balljoint from the arm, now the casttle nut will not go in. And I am afraid that I can't drive it like that. Man, I hate it when S**t hits the fan.

You are right it may be my battery.

[A20A1]

you mean the castle nut wont tighten fully?

[1989accordaz]

The casttle nut will not even go on the first two threads, the bolt was slightly bent by the ball joint puller, so the bolt is deformed at the tip, the nut will not go in, at all. Now, I can't drive the car without that nut, the lower arm will pop out is that right?

[vongiese]

If the damaged part of the threads are at the beginning - it may be possible to grind some of it off? or grind/file the bunged up threads down to eliminate the damaged portion. i had the same problem on mine when the puller tried to slip off the stud. it deforemd the end of the threaded portion. I just grinded the last few threads off - worked fine cause the only threads you have to have are below the cotter pin hole anyway.
good luck.

[Soundy]

Damn, that's nasty... I get the alt out of my 87 by pulling it across, working it over the rear engine mount, and out the far side. Takes a little twisting and turning over the mount, but it'll come right out that way.

Other way I've done it is to unbolt the upper left engine mount and jack the engine up, opening up enough room for the alt to slip between the intake manifold and the brake master cylinder.

Taking out the CV shaft is the messiest, nastiest way to do it.

[1989accordaz]

OK, I got the casstle nut on. I bought a hacksaw to cut the bolt right above the holes for the cotter pin, filed it some more and it did go in, all the way. ( after lots of cuzzing of course ) so I lowered the car, drove it to Autozone about a mile away and the battery light did not come on. The charging system was tested and there was something faulty with it.( the battery light came on during the testing ) Can't say what. So the battery and the alternator by themselves tested OK, but together in the car the charging system didn't.

I drove it half a mile to a mechanic and left it there so they can fix it. And in the process replace the lower ball joing that got damaged while poping it out.

I'll keep you posted just in case this happens to you.

[Soundy]

Sounds a lot like what my car was doing a while back. Problem turned out to be a bad diode pack. Actually these alts are pretty easy and not too expensive to rebuild - new diode pack, regulator and brushes, swap'em in, and you're good to go.

[1989accordaz]

Whre do you get the diode pack, regulator and brushes from?

[Soundy]

Any autoparts place should either carry them or be able to order them in. Check the How To forum (under Engine Electrical) for more threads detailing the specifics.

[carotman]

The diode pack is the most expensive one unfortunately (like 50 bucks I think). The rest is just a couple of $$

[Soundy]

Fortunately the diode pack is fairly easy to test (providing you have a multimeter with diode-test function). Rotor and stator windings are easily tested as well. Brush condition is easy to see. About the only thing you can't really test (as far as I know; I'd love to have a bench-test procedure for it) is the regulator, but if everything else checks out, and it needs to be replaced through process of elimination, it's relatively inexpensive.

[shepherd79]

i don't like autozone. They can't test anything.
I would take it Advance auto parts.

[vongiese]

To test the regulator - won't the load test in-car suffice? i.e. test volts at no load while car is running, then turn on heavy electrical load (fan/headlights) and watch volt meter - it should drop from 14.7 volts momentarily - then jump back up to 14.7 volts. Shows regulator is working...
Can the regulator still be bad and pass this test?

[Soundy]

"BENCH test" I said. If you have the alt out to work on it, having to completely reassemble and put it back in the car (a chore in itself with a 3gee) just to test the regulator is a bit over the top. And it still won't "test" properly if there's an issue somewhere else (car wiring, for example) - the idea is to be able to test each component individually.

[Nice Guy Neil]

Just a note about removing the alternator - I did it just a week or two ago and I found the easiest way, by far, of getting it out is to taking it out of the bracket, disconnect the wires and such, then take out the airbox and remove it through there. Removing the airbox only took like 5 mins, saves lots of time.

[touring 1]

Ditto on the removal process, difficult, but I did have to drop the axle on mine. Never saw these guys' advice on other ways. My alt tested perfect. The tech says its the brushes. So the spin test shows the rotor/armature, diodes test ok, the failure is the worn brushes, and if it is original, pull em out and look. brushes are 5 bucks at napa. Sweet.

[A20A1]

LX-I and LX/DX have different clearance issues when removing the alt.

Cept my LX... I just pull it up by the brake booster... no obstructions.

Thank you Weber.

[vongiese]

Just a note about removing the alternator - I did it just a week or two ago and I found the easiest way, by far, of getting it out is to taking it out of the bracket, disconnect the wires and such, then take out the airbox and remove it through there. Removing the airbox only took like 5 mins, saves lots of time.

Yeah - like A20A1 already said - LX-i is different than LX or DX. Like you discovererd - LX-i (and SE-i) are easy.

[A18A]

ahhhh, im glad my car is RHD things are much easier, although i still havnt got my alt out as im still waiting for a ride down town 2 get the tools i need

[wprocomp]

LX-I and LX/DX have different clearance issues when removing the alt.

Cept my LX... I just pull it up by the brake booster... no obstructions.

Thank you Weber.

thank you mikes ala vaccum line removal mine was uber easy

[1989accordaz]

I swear, I will try every single approach about removing the alt if I need to, after working on it I am ready for the circus as a contortionist, I swear of god.

My bet is the alternator, even though it tested ok by itself, the brushes may be worn out. So I will go with your advice and take the alt out of the car again and look at them brushes.

To all who have remove the alt without removing the axel:

UPDATE: I just replaced the alternator. Probelm solved. Thanks to all for your advice in helping with the removal of the alternator, but for me, the best way was to remove the axel, pretty easy if you ask me. All you need is a ball-joint puller and an extra hand.