Okay this is whats up..I have a 86' accord dx w/a carb.When I start my car it idols like crap!At about .850 or so.But the real problem is sputtering.I can't even go past 2500 rpm,or it has like a delay.Sometimes when i accelerate it feels as if its gonna die but i give it more gas and it sputters for a while and then goes!Its really annoying and im getting sick of it,but if i can find out the problem that would be great!!
PLZ HELP IM BEGGING
check your timing. Mine did this with the original t belt at 173k miles. replaced tbelt and set timing and it was wonderful after that. Also, make sure to have ngk plugs. i put bosch in mine and it ran like crap. also, check your ignition components.
whats a tbelt?
Timing belt (T-Belt)
try and read these two threads, see if it answers your problem.
BOOSTER VENTURI
IDLE ADJUSTMENTS
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- llia
well, you can check the venturies inside the carb.
if that too much for you, just replace whole carb with rebuild one.
Alex.
I dont have the resources to take off my carb nor do i have the time but should i just take it in to a carb shop and see whats up?
if they know carbs, sure take it to them...
if not you may not get anywhere... or they'll make the problem worse.
Just in case you want to hand it off to the person at the shop.
Booster venturies are also known as Auxilary Venturies.
All you need really to check the boosted venturies is remove the air filter lid as if you were going to replace the filter... then remove the gold/brass colored screen... then stick your finger down the carb barrels and try to see if the venturies move... they will slide back and forth, parralell in their slot if they are loose. Seriously try to move them, don't just poke at them a few times, but only use your finger, nothing else or it might scrape/damage something.
- llia
The venturies did move,but what is their main function and why would it cause sputtering and stalling??Plz help
Originally Posted by stillhoopin22
Well the venturies are what cause the fuel to flow and be metered/mixed with the air.
A loose booster means the seal between the booster and the carb body is allowing the pressure drop (Vacuum) created by the venturi to bleed off...
When that happens the vacuum signal is weakend... a weaker vacuum signal will pull out less fuel... so you'll end up with a lean fuel mixture. Lean mixtures aren't always easy to ignite... so you don't get good combustion and the power of your motor drops...
- llia
So what exactly am i to replace?And how much you think??Money aint a thang but I dont wanna spend to much.I got rent ta pay!lol.
You just tighten the screw... the link I gave you tells you how.
- llia
How hard would it be to convert my carb to EFI?
well lets just say it was an idea i had not too long ago and gave up on. finding proper parts and then putting everything in can be the hardest thing. time is a big issue, i'd give it about a full week, doing days full of work. for a normal guy like me, it'd take me about 1-2 weeks to do it all. considering i dont run into any problems or have any parts missing. and thats because i go to college all week and would use my free time to do the work. i dont think you'd wanna go to fi, just because of the hassle it can be to do the swap. also, you'll have to pretty much take out all the wiring in your car and replace it with the fuel injected model's wiring. i have worked on my carb using just reference how to's here from 3geez.com and have had success.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
100 X longer and more difficult then tightening/replacing a booster screw.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48568
- llia
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