cool, now i gotta order some special valves
cool, now i gotta order some special valves
Last edited by b8er; 04-14-2006 at 11:35 AM.
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
The ITB's would still have a huge increase on power compared to stock but only when you combine with camshaft and other choice mods, if you stick the ITB's onto a completely sotck engine you'll kill the low end torque and make the engine run rough as it will have toomuch air to take in and it won;t be able to get it out quick enough.
Valves will fit at those sizes as i have them, and yes you would need custom valves, at least for the exhaust valves, the inlet valves you could use old exhuast valves mchined down but custom ones would be better for flow as the exhuast stems are thicker than the old 30mm ones, but the advantage of useing the old exhaust valves is that you then have to use the exhuast valve springs, retainers, and platforms which will give you the strength to rev upto 8k without any major issues. The maximum RPM is governed by how good the headwork is and the cam you use, on a stock head with a 280 degree cam you might only have a peak power at 7000rpm on a well modified head this may increase upto 8000rpm so you need to spend the money on the headwork and the valves to make the big power, also from my experience the torque and BHP figures are not an equation that you do to determine the other, the way the head flows the air and fuel and how it enters the cylinder and how well it mixes effects peak torque and Bhp figures, research into tumble and swirl versus flow velocity supports this so don't allways assume that X this to divide by Y that will allways give you accurate figures.
The guide boss is the end of the guide that sticks out into the port area, this can be moddified so that it flows the fuel and air around it better you can do this the easy way remove it completely or make it more aerodynamic, also the guide ramp is the material around the valve guide that is quite often raised into the port as well, with the A20A heads the inlet side doesn't really have an issue with the guide boss or the ramp as it doesn't haven't any, but unfortunately you do end up with a giant size gap in front of the valve stem and guide, which i think would be best welded up and re-profiled to match the port shape but this would only be needed for guy's who are keen on geeting the last HP outta their engines like myself and a couple others, the A18 heads, ET, and ET1 have different inlet ports and valve guide ramps and boss's and as a result these can be moddified to improve flow quite a bit, with A20 most of your increase in flow will be from having race style seats and valves, with all the port work going into the exhuast ports where the guide ramp and boss severly intrude into the port area, i've gained easliy 5bhp from opening up this area and this will only help further down the line with bigger cams, valves and bigger carbs and EFI etc.
The valve train minor mods would be just double checking spring heights and strengths, a little shimming under the spring platforms, as i said upgrading to Prelude ET or A18 springs and platforms should be good for 8k i've run at those rpms before without issues, but for ultimate you need to change to doubel springs using exhaust valves, platforms and retainers, or if you can find an ET1 Head they have doubles all round but the springs aren't that strong but are okay when shimmed a little, but you have to be carefull shimming the springs as if you add too much you'll become coil bound and you'll wreck the rockers and camshaft.
From my experience, if you want really good torque figures you have to incorporate as much tumble and swirl into the air flow as possible, this will effect Bhp slightly as this allways leads to a loss in air velocity, but if your aim is max Bhp then Air velocity is what you need, this is where the majic of head work comes in designing the head to give what you want.
well thats some good info right there. that should defintly help me out, thanks rjudey
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
well, little uptade for you guys as this thread has been idleing for awhille but this itb project and the whole accord project may be coming to a hault, iv found a car that iv fallen into love with, just as much as the accord but we will see what happenes, theres good info in this thread either way and il update you guys when the time comes
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
such as?
well as weird as it is i want a datsun 510, early 70's, iv just fallen in love with the body and the styling clues, im about the only person i know that likes them but they fact that were small/light/rwd and that motor swaps are gonna be failry easy make me all happy, i might keep the itb's and possibly work somthing out on the 510 (when i finnaly come across one as they are reiculous to find near my home town) but im gonna try and work both the se-i and the 510 but we'll just have to see what happenes
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
Good luck man, those cars are great. my dad used to have one.
Just watch out for rust.
yea vi done some research i just cant seem to find any of the damn things, which makes me want one more cause there are 4 or 5 accords running arond town and i just want somthing different, so hopefully i can find one of these buggers
Last edited by b8er; 04-21-2006 at 10:34 AM.
-Who needs horse power when you got icy roads and bald tires
-To drift a car is to create reckless art
that hot jigga....do you play need for speed undergound?...ITBS are hot...i heard they are good for up to 30hp
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
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Sorry. They don't really increase HP so much as improve throttle response, at least that's what I had been told.
Well actually... I got paper work and a dyno graph that proves different(not with me the magazines at work) .... Not properly tuned it showd n increas of about 27hp if I remember correctly... lowend power suffers a little and at the very top of the gears it falls of a little.... Now this was on a stock d series with no management... so I'm sure I'll have no problem tuning at least 30-35 horses outta these... and a shot from the bottle on top of that...
Originally Posted by speedpenguin
squared...man i knoe wut im talking about.....
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1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Alright, I was wrong. Now I want them for my car!
u can buyem for b series... run ya bout 1500 just for the itbs though...
Can ya? Good to know, I can't afford that anytime soon, but I may consider it in the future.
Originally Posted by jigga89SEi
I honestly can't wait to see how this turns out. Very cool setup![]()
Can't wait!
u know u can always use a v6 accord fuel pump and prelude FI
might be too much fuel
Originally Posted by hotdoghogie
why?
just get an aftermaket one
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
its cheaper... i dunno just some money saving tips
how much would you save? .....you dont get it....just save up your money and get a real deal aftermarket pump...so when you are pushing mad JDM HP you wont need to upgrade again costing you x2
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
ya... u got a point
dude you got the honda tuning calender too ... liken the setup too
2006 NASA/VCU regional Semi-finalist
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im trying to find someone to do it for me iv wanted to do it for yrs but im into a nother project right now
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
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