JDM H22A 89 Accord Se-i Sedan Swap Completed & Running!

[Lok]

I have seen Dyno chart of stock B16A with intake-header-CAI to has power gains everywhere on the dyno curve with the adition of a 2.75 inch (external) exhaust.
Was Holdener's Honda performance book with many dyno charts, and he said that allthough the sound of the engine indicates a loss of back pressure and power at low and mid rpm......the dyno had different opinion.
Stock jdm INTEGRA B18C-R 1.8L with 200hp has 2.36 inch exhaust (external) or 60mm.
And Kakimoto-R which is the best aftermarket exhaust for this car is 2.75 inch (external)..
So dear H22accordse-iv, I believe that you'll have only gains from this exhaust set-up on your jdm H22 2.2L with stock block-head.
If you ,later, go high C/R pistons, P&P head, race cams etc maybe you must consider a larger diameter than 2.75inch...
You can have Dc header-race cat-cat back 2.75' or just dc header and the exhaust 2.75' after the header......dipends the laws on your area....
One cheap solution for cat is second hand S2000 cat...
Many friends of me use it on B20VTEC 240hp+ without any problem with police, and without sacrifice performance.
They are top stock Honda cat (you can find one very easy and cheap on Honda scrap yards or performance shops (many S2000 owners use de-cat pipes)) designed for an 240hp stock engine who revs 9000rpm...

Dear AccordTheory I didn't say that H22A is the best engine Honda made, but I said that H22A is according to some top auto-correspondance journalist the best 4 cyl engine EVER BUILD for production cars NOT THE BEST 4 CYL
ENGINE HONDA EVER MADE............SIMPLY THE BEST 4 CYL ENGINE OF THE WORLD (FOR PRODUCTION CARS) EVER MADE.

LJK (Leonard) Setright maybe the best auto journalist of all epoch said that, not me.....for this, he owned a PRELUDE 4th GEN 2.2I VTEC until his death
7 sept 2005 (he keep it for 12 years, quite strange the top car journalist of the world to had the same car for 12 years!!!!):

http://motoring.independent.co.uk/fe...icle313713.ece

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.../17/db1702.xml

'He particularly loved the high engineering values of Honda, and drove a venerable Prelude Coupe until he died'


jdm K20 never makes 256whp with that mods.
I am more than sure that you talking about Dynopack Dyno which measure power on hubs and not at the wheels ( many people do that mistake).

But is not the problem how much power you get from a specific set-up.

If we take stock motors: jdm H22A 200hp is a better motor than a jdm K20A 220hp and this because of much more torque of H22A at low and mid rpm...
Both power and torque curves are better on H22A until 7000rpm and the slighty advantage of K20A at 8000rpm doesn't make any difference.
Also The power looses at the wheels, are much higher on K20a, because it makes max power at higher rpm compared to H22A.

The same happens if we compared H22A with F20C from S2000, and the difference here is even bigger through F20C is dead (compared to H22A) at
6000rpm and below ( NO I-VTEC system here).

I remember on the first Autocar S2000 test, all the test-drivers agree that a similar (on power characteristics) prelude motor unit would be better and more flexible for S2000 than the F20C.


H22A=dream engine

[Lok]

Just for the record:

One of his last articles:

http://motoring.independent.co.uk/co...ticle43967.ece


LJK Setright :

http://www.nzmotorsport.co.nz/conten...?pLive&id=6025

[H22AccordSE-IV]

Thanks, guys.
ex1z7, I mentioned earlier on this thread, I'd get my Ingall's camber kit installed and my intake during my next stop at Altech; I don't have the camber kit in yet cuz it's tough scheduling an appointment when I usually work 6 days a week and the shop ain't open on weekends. I went to see Joe today (happy birthday, buddy!) and he threw me a short ram intake (thanks again) with a K&N filter he had lying around the shop as a temporary setup until I can get my CAI fabbed up. It's pretty filthy so I've got to clean it up a bit.
I wasn't driving with it before (call me stupid), and I can only justify this because it was colder a few weeks ago and I hear a lot of guys take their intakes off during the winter because it's not as dry and there isn't as much dust on the road. As soon as I clean it today, believe me, it's going in!
Here's a pic of the intake and the Ingall's camber kit.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/353/1456047yf.jpg
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/5889/1450389av.jpg

[Oldblueaccord]

I have the rear Ingalls it works for sure. Get the poly bushing. and it needs the ball joint as well it don't come with it from Ingalls unless you order theres which is like 50$ and the moog ones is like 23$. Poly does squeek of course and it comes assembled so its hard to grease. You cant really press it back out its molded right into the part.

The front I have a similar kit but with 3 holes not the slots. It works as well but i dont know how much adjustment it will give you maybe -2 degrees on a stock ride height car. You might and I say might swap the passenger side and drivers side parts depending on how the slots go and get more if you need it.

The front rubber bushing/sleeve deal do something with as well. Get poly bushing if you can. I pitched the whole thing and use steel sleeves press into the arms with a bolt thru that.

Get the stru rod bushing changed out with the moog replacement. There very hard. Honda sells them. Poly if you can find it. Or go with solid bushing or a replacement link setup like from Level 10 ? i think suspension. Since your front beams been cut you shoulda anyway.

I posted this stuff before here in the suspension section quick search should turn it up or PM me.

wp

[speedpenguin]

Just for the record:
One of his last articles:
http://motoring.independent.co.uk/co...ticle43967.ece
LJK Setright :
http://www.nzmotorsport.co.nz/conten...?pLive&id=6025

Wow, he really was a great writer!
Too bad I get to find out about him after he died.

[bullard123]

Wow where have I been? I can't believe someone actually completed this swap! You get much props from me and welcome aboard! I sure would like to see you and accord epicenter or wicked accord compare track times.

[gfrg88]

wickedaccord would own everyone on here GO SOCAL!!!!

[Accordtheory]

I have the rear Ingalls it works for sure. Get the poly bushing. and it needs the ball joint as well it don't come with it from Ingalls unless you order theres which is like 50$ and the moog ones is like 23$. Poly does squeek of course and it comes assembled so its hard to grease. You cant really press it back out its molded right into the part.
The front I have a similar kit but with 3 holes not the slots. It works as well but i dont know how much adjustment it will give you maybe -2 degrees on a stock ride height car.

Why not just use longer bolts and washers for the rear and the 84-87 prelude arms for the front? No point in spending more money to get the same (or possibly inferior on the front) results..

[Oldblueaccord]

Why not just use longer bolts and washers for the rear and the 84-87 prelude arms for the front? No point in spending more money to get the same (or possibly inferior on the front) results..

Well since you got 7 post. 6 of them post pads on this thread I will respond. I am behind several.

Longer bolts and washers, if your talking the rear, dont give negative camber they give positve. The Ingalls rear arm gives your whatever you want prolly +10 degress either way. You get poly ends and you get a replaceable ball joint. I go thur the joints every 2 years or so. I have ahad my car since 1994 and I actually drive it quite a few miles a year.

84 -87 preludes arms. At the time I bought my kit I didn't know about this. I new about this site but avoided it since your buddy Sean was here selling his pipe dreams and peanuts. I don't know if im hip on the slotted design on them and Honda wasn't too much either since they came and went pretty quick. The kit I use is a Specialty products and has 3 holes. one for positive camber and 2 for negative ( that may be switched around not sure at this point) so no way the bolts can slip but not infintely adjustable as the Ingalls setup I would assume.

So, now like you say in Cali "please get off my dong" or is that thong im not sure ?


wp

[Accordtheory]

I'm not on your dong..or your thong, you homo.. and ha ha, my buddy sean..yeah, go fuck yourself. All I'm saying is on the rear, all you need to do is move the upper arm out to get rid of the camber when you lower the car, longer bolts and washers do that just fine. If you need to replace your ball joint anyway, and/or want the poly bushing, I won't argue with you if you favor the aftermarket arm. On the front, the prelude arms do give you caster adjustability, by where you put the washers to fit the narrower arm into the accord bolt piece. Also by effectively increasing the length of the arm instead of moving the swivel point, (ingalls kit) you get slightly less of a rate of camber gain throughout the rest of the suspension travel.

either way, whatever people decide to do is up to them, I'm just airing out another option.

[smufguy]

they do sell lower control arms in the rear for our cars to adjust the camber. It basically pulls the lower ball joint in, rather than the conventional upper camber kit which replaces the upper control arm. Nopi has them i suppose.

[sinisterfuzzy]

i love this thing so awesome..

[aerokid1987]

Damn how the hell did I miss this thread??? I hadn't seen this until today! ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!!

[A20A3quippedbeast]

holy shit dude that car is fxckin amazing. when i got my accord i thought bout h22a swaps but errbody was like "youre nuts you cant do that" well they can eat their hearts out. we need some vids w/sound now cuz i wanna here that thing howl at 6k. anyways props on the swap/car hope you can get a turbo in there after the hemorrage in your wallet stops. haha. jp man, jp.

[accord upset]

hey h22 did u ever find out how they did the speedometer?? o and much props on the swap or at least the dertermination to do the swap. nice job anyways

[H22AccordSE-IV]

Thanks for the props y'all. Accord Upset, I imagine the speedometer would be hooked up the same as with the A20. No?

From A20A3 - "anyways props on the swap/car hope you can get a turbo in there after the hemorrage in your wallet stops. haha. jp man, jp."
LOL. Turbo's the plan, man. I could dip into my investment again but I'd rather save up for it. The swap was the exception cuz I needed a new engine at the time (the A20 was rotten along with the plumbing and everything else) and figured f*uck it, If I'm doin' this, I'm goin' H22 all the way baby! Soon...

Here's a brief update on my mods, boys.
-Ground Control Coil-Overs
-Bilstein Heavy Duty Struts
-Front suspension kit from E-Bay(replaced all front suspension components minus front lower control arms)
-K&N air intake

The front suspension is now super tight and she handles like a dream! Next I wanna get the ST front anti-sway bar and Addco rear.
I also had a tune up and valve job 2 weeks ago when I got my suspension installed. I've still gotta go back to get the Ingoll's camber kit installed. I was gonna get it powder coated with the other suspension components but I figure rust proofing is a hell of a lot cheaper.

Any ideas, guys? I'm having a little trouble with stuttering and hesitation when applying steady pedal pressure. My mech suggested we try the tune up, valve job, and fuel treatment first, but after all that, the problem still persists; It seems like the fuel cuts out at 6300 RPM but I don't know if that's just a rev limiter. Seems to stutter in 4th or 5th gear mostly at about 140 km/h but it happens sparatically and there doesn't seem to be any consistency as to when it will happen. My mech guessed it may be a lack of fuel due to the increased size and power of the engine; the next step is to change the fuel pump but i've got to make some time to get it done. I was leaning towards a Walbro 255lph pump but my mech said it's too much for the stock set-up right now. Hope a new pump will solve the problem. Could it be a prob with my wiring or ECU?

[Hash_man_Se_i]

It could very well be a fuel supply problem, I'm not sure the stock specs on our cars, but I would definately upgrade to the Walbro pump.

[H22AccordSE-IV]

Well, I replaced my fuel pump with an aftermarket pump from Koyosan($190) and just figured out I had a faulty ECU! My mech gave me a chipped P28 from a Civic Si, told me to plug it in and take my car for a test drive.
Whoa!!! What a fuc*in' difference! Quicker throttle response, quicker acceleration, no hesitation! Feels like I just had another engine swap! Anyway, needless to say, I ended up buying the chipped P28 for $280 CAD. I think it was damn well worth it! Anybody want a P13? lol

G.

[MessyHonda]

Well, I replaced my fuel pump with an aftermarket pump from Koyosan($190) and just figured out I had a faulty ECU! My mech gave me a chipped P28 from a Civic Si, told me to plug it in and take my car for a test drive.
Whoa!!! What a fuc*in' difference! Quicker throttle response, quicker acceleration, no hesitation! Feels like I just had another engine swap! Anyway, needless to say, I ended up buying the chipped P28 for $280 CAD. I think it was damn well worth it! Anybody want a P13? lol
G.

dude you got to make another thread with all your specs so i can nominate your for Accord of the month.....lol any updates to anything else?

[H22AccordSE-IV]

Thanks Mess, but my exterior needs tons of work, so I don't think she's ready for Accord of the month...yet! I just finished one side of my flush headlight conversion, minus the HL cover. I think my next step is going to be a custom intake manifold; lookin' at about 200hp at the wheels after that!

G.

[frantik]

nice engine mang.. and looking forward to seeing those headlighs completed too that photoshop concept looked mean

[snoopyloopy]

nice, sounds like you're really coming along with your project there. your car must fear into more than a few at the track/stoplight if they knew what was underneath the hood.

[H22AccordSE-IV]

Hey Bullard123,
Congrats on Accord of the Month! Nice fuc*in' ride. I'm really impressed. Can't wait 'til I get my shell restored.

G

[ChaseR]

Hey man Did you get the Cosmetic issues with your car taken care of so someone can nominate your car for AOM?

[A20A3quippedbeast]

Thanks for the props y'all. Accord Upset, I imagine the speedometer would be hooked up the same as with the A20. No?
From A20A3 - "anyways props on the swap/car hope you can get a turbo in there after the hemorrage in your wallet stops. haha. jp man, jp."
LOL. Turbo's the plan, man. I could dip into my investment again but I'd rather save up for it. The swap was the exception cuz I needed a new engine at the time (the A20 was rotten along with the plumbing and everything else) and figured f*uck it, If I'm doin' this, I'm goin' H22 all the way baby! Soon...
Here's a brief update on my mods, boys.
-Ground Control Coil-Overs
-Bilstein Heavy Duty Struts
-Front suspension kit from E-Bay(replaced all front suspension components minus front lower control arms)
-K&N air intake
The front suspension is now super tight and she handles like a dream! Next I wanna get the ST front anti-sway bar and Addco rear.
I also had a tune up and valve job 2 weeks ago when I got my suspension installed. I've still gotta go back to get the Ingoll's camber kit installed. I was gonna get it powder coated with the other suspension components but I figure rust proofing is a hell of a lot cheaper.
Any ideas, guys? I'm having a little trouble with stuttering and hesitation when applying steady pedal pressure. My mech suggested we try the tune up, valve job, and fuel treatment first, but after all that, the problem still persists; It seems like the fuel cuts out at 6300 RPM but I don't know if that's just a rev limiter. Seems to stutter in 4th or 5th gear mostly at about 140 km/h but it happens sparatically and there doesn't seem to be any consistency as to when it will happen. My mech guessed it may be a lack of fuel due to the increased size and power of the engine; the next step is to change the fuel pump but i've got to make some time to get it done. I was leaning towards a Walbro 255lph pump but my mech said it's too much for the stock set-up right now. Hope a new pump will solve the problem. Could it be a prob with my wiring or ECU?

once you get it running and have a good tune, grab your video camera, i wanna see that thing do 140mph (200+kmh) hehe. congrats again man, it sounds like its gonna handle as well...i also like those exposed headlights