brake questions

[EducatedFool]

hey guys, here i go again w/ another set of noob questions.....

1) do they sell any drilled/slotted rotors for 3g's? are they any good performance wise?

2) what are the best performance pads for the 3g that have little dust?

3) when i got my car, i noticed that on the 2 front wheels, 1 lug was missing (the bold that the lug nut goes on) from each side. im pretty sure this is a safety issue when driving it, do you guys know of anywhere i could get a replacement for those 2 things? i know i have to replace the entire part of where the brakes and wheels slide on, but i don't know what its called........

[ZackieDarko]

hey guys, here i go again w/ another set of noob questions.....
1) do they sell any drilled/slotted rotors for 3g's? are they any good performance wise?
2) what are the best performance pads for the 3g that have little dust?
3) when i got my car, i noticed that on the 2 front wheels, 1 lug was missing (the bold that the lug nut goes on) from each side. im pretty sure this is a safety issue when driving it, do you guys know of anywhere i could get a replacement for those 2 things? i know i have to replace the entire part of where the brakes and wheels slide on, but i don't know what its called........

First off people will tell you over and over to use the SEARCH button. But I will save you some time.

1.) Yes! I my self have the PowerSlot sloted rotors (click the link below). Keep in mind that the sloted rotors are "only available" (PowerSlot anyway) for 88/89. I have an 86 LX-i hatch and I have the 88/89 rotors and pads up front and it works just fine with no modifications.

http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/...0Accord%201988

2.) The AEM High Performance pads seem to be a very good pads. I have had them on my hatch since August and they work just fine, and I haven't noticed much dust at all.

http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/...0Accord%201988

3.) Check these out it should fix your problem.

http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/...0Accord%201988

Hope this helps, and in the future use the search button :-p

[ZackieDarko]

Oh if you are wanting to do your rears I have a set of BREMBO rear DRUMS if you are intrested.

[EducatedFool]

Thanks for the info. I didn't use search for the sole reason that i wasn't sure what exactly to type in the search. Thanks alot.

And for the Brembo's, how much you sellin them for? If it's less than the price I can get them at work for (I work at CarQuest), then I'll definitly be interested.

[ZackieDarko]

What year and model is your 3g? (DX LX LX-i)

[oldschool3g]

i just bought a pair of pwerslot rotters and AEM brake pads for my 1989 hatch and they have amazing stipping power, almost no dust, and they stay cool because of the slotts on them...i love em...

[86AccordLxi]

Realistically you don't need anything more than stock replacement rotors that arent' slotted and especially not cross drilled. Most of the people here have never overheated their brakes, or probably even faded their brakes, which is the reason you would want to switch to a slotted rotor. However, buying an awesome set of pads will definitely improve the performance and feel of your brakes.

Alex

[EducatedFool]

To be honest, I am gonna need this upgrade. I drive EXTREMELY aggresively because there's nothing but twisty backroads around here. I can already feel massive brake fading after a few minutes of driving. I'm planning on turning this into a little auto-x car. i have pretty big plans for it. its the 86 DX hatch model, btw. Even if I knew for a fact that I didn't need them, i would probably wanna get them anyways cause it'll look good w/ the wheels im getting :-P

[bobafett]

www.tirerack.com

www.fastbrakes.com

for an 86 model 3g, about the best you can do (without actually upgrading to big brake kit, or 88-89 lxi brakes) is the nice stuff from tirerack.

i have technafit lines (www.technafit.com)
ebc sport drilled (slotted and dimpled) rotors
gay akabono ceramic pads (supposedly as good as the hawk HPS which i wanted but they were on backorder for months at the time)
lame generic rear shoes
ATE super blue racing brake fluid.

at this point my brakes feel just fine, a stock 3g has plenty of clamping force to lock up anything from lame stock sized passenger tires, to damn near R-compound tires (verified after zeph and i go sliding into an intersection hahaha).

if you DO get fade then a nice set of rotors is in order, and also lines cant hurt. but if you want better clamping force u can customize some big brakes or just get 88-89 lxi stuff cause they have some pretty nice pads available at tirerack.

[smufguy]

EBC Brake disks: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...8&brandid=1169

DBA: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...8&brandid=1135

Powerstop: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...78&brandid=888

Best bang for your money : http://replacement.autopartswarehous...20Disc&dp=true

Brake pads: http://replacement.autopartswarehous...%20Set&dp=true

[EducatedFool]

thanks alot guys, i did hear that 88/89 pads work? cause i was thinkin id get the rotors and some of the pads they have for those and some lines.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Most of the people here have never overheated their brakes, or probably even faded their brakes, which is the reason you would want to switch to a slotted rotor. However, buying an awesome set of pads will definitely improve the performance and feel of your brakes.

Lol... I am really really hard on my brakes when I drive hard... I just warped my slotted rotors the other week using my PBR pads, and I'm kinda pissed. IMO, stock replacement rotors are the way to go, just get the brembo blanks, thats what I'm thinking of switching too. Then get some really good pads, and SS brake lines.

IMO, I like PBR brake pads (same as Axxis) the ones I have now are the lower line of pads, I forget which one... I think they are organic pads, I get some fade with them after hard driving, but they are nice and quiet and dont produce much brake dust. On the other hand, the metal masters I had before were insanely good pads, but squeeked a lot, and created a shitload of brake dustr/

[86AccordLxi]

Yeah, I have metal masters in my 240 and they do dust like crazy, but stop GREAT. The car stops really really well.

Alex

[EducatedFool]

ok another noob question. i went to take off my caliper today so that i can take off my rotor and get to my wheel studs, and the bolts..... they're stuck! any suggestions on loosening up these 20 y/o bolts? i tried soaking in WD40 already.

[Oldblueaccord]

That and heat maybe. I use PB Blaster myself. try a propane torch and first get it hot enough to smoke some. Use Bigger 1/2 " drive stuff on it for leverage.

If not you'll need a bigger torch and heat em red, cool and again, untill they spin out or break.


wp

[smufguy]

if its just the caliper bolt, use a breaker bar and they should come off right away. if you are talking about the rotors being stuck. Use a 12mm long bolt and screw it into the rotor vacant holes. remove the retaining screws, and tighten the 12mm bolts till the rotors break loose.

[Accordtheory]

That and heat maybe. I use PB Blaster myself. try a propane torch and first get it hot enough to smoke some. Use Bigger 1/2 " drive stuff on it for leverage.
If not you'll need a bigger torch and heat em red, cool and again, untill they spin out or break.
wp

oldblueaccord, I'm going to pick on you now because you gave me attitude on another thread..ok..seriously, a propane torch? wtf?? How about instead of fucking your car up with a torch, use air tools or an extension on the wrench for leverage? Or hit the end of the wrench with a hammer? I guarantee those bolts won't be seized enough to damage their threads upon removal. I can't think of any situation where the use of a torch would be appropriate.. You must be watching to much aqua teen hunger force...

[EducatedFool]

i've tried a hammer, i tried putting a long pipe on the end of the rachet, tried WD40, i stood on it, jumped up and down on it........

you get the general idea.

and i don't have access to air tools

[AZmike]

Try using a jack to lift up on a breaker bar held firmly in place on the fastener.

[gfrg88]

maybe you havent unbolted everything have you looked at a manual, you did say you were a n00b : P

[Oldblueaccord]

i've tried a hammer, i tried putting a long pipe on the end of the rachet, tried WD40, i stood on it, jumped up and down on it........

you get the general idea.

and i don't have access to air tools

I assume your talking about the 17 mm big caliper bolts( wrench size) try turning the wheels so that you can use like a 4 foot bar on a 1/2" drive socket wrench and get some clearence. I hate it for you. I was rasied in upstate NY I know all about rusty bolts. Thats why mechanics charge so much for a brake job you never know what your gonna get into.

Propane ,map gas or oxy actelyene maybe the only answer.

Remember lefty lousey

[EducatedFool]

here's an update.....

after finding a decent angle, i got a hollow pipe around the end of the rachet and got the bolts off. took the caliper and rotor off..... but now i have yet another problem.....

has anyone on here ever changed the wheel studs before? i thought that once i had all the brake stuff off i'd be able to just band the old bolt out and put the new one in..... .boy was i wrong. there's not enough clearance for me to bang it out. and i don't have the tools to take off the entire hub off of the axle

[Oldblueaccord]

Hubs pressed on with the bearing. Need the whole arm off and the bearings pressed out.

I thought there was a spot to move the hub and you could get at the stud one at a time.

Good you got the bolt off anyway. Keep plugging at it.


wp

[EducatedFool]

after i got it off yesterday, i realized that whoever had the car before me WELDED the hub to the axle. so i cant figure out any way to get it off.....