ebay turbo?

[sinisterfuzzy]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...65401200QQrdZ1


is this a 'legit' turbo? it just seems weird that a turbo is <300bucks...

[A20A1]

Is a T-25 better then a T3 or T3/T4 for low boost?

What are your plans for boost?

Honestly I would not buy a turbo on e-bay... the price is so so. Try and look at a reputable site and do price comparisons between real sites that sell reputable products and have a proven history.

You can fudge a good e-bay score with a mass of needy 3rd world workers and a few computers with internet access. Or a van of college students with nothing better to do.

[snoopyloopy]

i would stay away from it. looks like an ss autochrome turbo. the dsm world avoids those like the plague, i don't see any reason why we shouldn't. and yeah, what are your boosting goals? there's a chart around here somewhere to help w/ turbo sizing for different levels of power at different ranges of the pband.

[sinisterfuzzy]

my boosting plans i want to do 10psi. on a weber38.

[gfrg88]

so why does every one not like SS Autochrome??? my brother in law has a whole turbo kit from them and hes been running that thing really hard at the track. its a track/show car Del Sol w/ b18c1 boosting 5 psi, running high 13s. so far nothing wrong, why dont people like them????

[snoopyloopy]

well, if he's seeing good results with it, more power to him, i suppose. but like i said, i've been surfing the dsm forums as well since i have an eclipse to work on to find out info. and i found that everyone recommends avoiding ss autochrome turbos saying that they pretty much break prematurely. but of course, that may very well be because they try running them at 20-30 psi like they do with regular mitsu turbos. if you're running only 10 psi or so, it may do a little better than it does on a dsm.
and i was more talking about a hp goal than a boost goal. because you can run 30 psi but if it isn't tuned properly, you'll get no where near the power you could develop on a well-tuned 15 psi setup. so i'm assuming you're going to be tuning your setup. however, running through a carb or after a car is probably different than efi tuning. it's probably better tuned to begin with and you'll probably just need more fuel.

[TWOLOUDNPROUD]

Sorry i had to Thanks to A20A1 for making this

[AccordEpicenter]

rofl that pict is great. Bleh, avoid ssautoshit and ZY turbos... any no name type of shit, usually just causes problems. I know of 2 guys that have blown motors after using SSautocrome wastegates and having them fail and a handful of people who have had various ripoff turbos like these fail... you get what you pay for, kids. Yeah, there are some people that have had success with them but many people have had issues. And for 10psi, a T3 60/63 or 60/48 would be a better choice than a T3/T4 for this application, a T3/T4 would be a waste on 10psi. I personally like the T3 60/63.

[snoopyloopy]

yeah, the only ss autochrome parts that i've heard are ok are the fmic's. people haven't had problems with those. other than that, any time the name ss autochrome is brought up on the dsm forum, the person get's chewed out and told to save their money for a real mhi turbo.

[AccordEpicenter]

yeah... im all about doing things that give more performance for the money, and they actually held up and i didnt hear all these horror stories id say go for it, but there are just some things you shouldnt skimp on. Id take a well used Garrett before i took a new SSauto or ZY etc turbo

[bobafett]

i have a turbo for sale if your actually looking to buy one man. 400 + shipping.

http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gat357trw63a.html

this is basically exactly what i have for sale. 4 bolt discharge, brand new...

[88eyeguy]

http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...ght=ebay+turbo

This has happened to quite a few people. As long as it doesn't have any moving parts, SSAutochrome products are okay.

Personally, I think that the T25 (Nissan, not DSM) turbo is a great size for decent power and quick response on a 2 liter engine. A T3/T4 will give you excellent power at a reasonable price, but won't spool quite as fast. I'm starting with a T25 on my Nissan KA24DE (2.4 liter), and it has been proven to have almost instant spool time. Only problem I forsee is that the turbo tends to run out of breath on the SR20DET (2.0 liter) at about 6000 rpm and on the KA24DE at about 5000 rpm.

*EDIT* I see that AccordEpicenter has already talked about turbo size. I'll defer to Jason's expertise on this one.

[A20A1]

It's glued together. oh my gawd... it's a WALMART TURBO, I'm surprised it isn't made of plastic.

[snoopyloopy]

yeah, the turbo is one thing you don't want to go cheap on. make sure you spend good money on the turbo because you get what you pay for.

[Cheeseburger]

Sorry i had to Thanks to A20A1 for making this

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

[Feuerstoss]

+1 to SSAutochrome being pretty bad, at least as the turbos go. As far as their rep on the GT-Four community? Pretty bad. Their turbo-back 3" exhaust has gotten some good rep, but it's been found out they're made by Motoria. Their downpipes have a reputation for cracking, and there's a local Honda shop(ZC Speed, I think?) who have put those el cheapo turbos on. They worked, but the oil seals are shot, which means you'll be laying down smokescreen when you boost. I wouldn't put money on those lasting a decent amount of time either. Turbos can be had relatively inexpensively if you can find 'em... if you've got someone to fab for you and don't mind a junkyard turbo kit a Toyota MA70 Supra CT26 can be had for about $300, normally. The exhaust end won't be too easy to work with, but it's a decent turbo for what you'll get out of it.

[reanimator420]

srry dbl

[reanimator420]

nicely said people let give a big round of applause lol

[88eyeguy]

+1 to SSAutochrome being pretty bad, at least as the turbos go. As far as their rep on the GT-Four community? Pretty bad. Their turbo-back 3" exhaust has gotten some good rep, but it's been found out they're made by Motoria. Their downpipes have a reputation for cracking, and there's a local Honda shop(ZC Speed, I think?) who have put those el cheapo turbos on. They worked, but the oil seals are shot, which means you'll be laying down smokescreen when you boost. I wouldn't put money on those lasting a decent amount of time either. Turbos can be had relatively inexpensively if you can find 'em... if you've got someone to fab for you and don't mind a junkyard turbo kit a Toyota MA70 Supra CT26 can be had for about $300, normally. The exhaust end won't be too easy to work with, but it's a decent turbo for what you'll get out of it.

Their downpipes and manifolds have a reputation for cracking on cars where they are not properly supported. My knowledge on this matter is limited generally to 240sx's, so let me give an example with those. The 240sx has a bracket on the transmission mount that the stock downpipe attaches to so that it can flex with the motor. If you don't attach the new downpipe to it, you run the increased rick of the downpipe or manifold cracking. I have seen a Full Race manifold crack in fewer miles than an SSAutochrome manifold on the KA24DE because this bracket was unused on either. I have seen nothing to suggest that the welds or materials used are that poor of quality. Like I said before, as long as it doesn't have any moving parts, you're okay.

[Feuerstoss]

Their downpipes and manifolds have a reputation for cracking on cars where they are not properly supported. My knowledge on this matter is limited generally to 240sx's, so let me give an example with those. The 240sx has a bracket on the transmission mount that the stock downpipe attaches to so that it can flex with the motor. If you don't attach the new downpipe to it, you run the increased rick of the downpipe or manifold cracking. I have seen a Full Race manifold crack in fewer miles than an SSAutochrome manifold on the KA24DE because this bracket was unused on either. I have seen nothing to suggest that the welds or materials used are that poor of quality. Like I said before, as long as it doesn't have any moving parts, you're okay.

Understandable. From a little more research, what I've found out is that there is no support for the SSAC DP on the ST165/ST185 3SGTEs, therefore most do crack. Unsupported, even a stock DP will crack, but AFAIK the only Celica/MR2 DP to include adequate support is the Aussie model, which is extremely expensive(about $350 or so after shipping's counted in) and takes a long time to get since they are generally shipped direct from Austrailia.

SSAC seems to have a hit or miss reputation concerning their parts... they make some stuff well, or there's major flaws in others. But... the heart of the matter is that if you're wanting to do a turbo kit... do a lot of homework and do not skimp. While SSAC has a hit or miss reputation, there are some companies which're making knock-off turbos at extremely low prices that will fail. A turbo setup's probably cheaper than swapping to a B20, but it still has its expensive parts. The bottom line? Cheaply made parts ae cheaply made parts. Quality made parts are quality made parts. You can get bargains on quality parts for sure, but the cheap stuff will always remain the cheap stuff.

[88eyeguy]

Understandable. From a little more research, what I've found out is that there is no support for the SSAC DP on the ST165/ST185 3SGTEs, therefore most do crack. Unsupported, even a stock DP will crack, but AFAIK the only Celica/MR2 DP to include adequate support is the Aussie model, which is extremely expensive(about $350 or so after shipping's counted in) and takes a long time to get since they are generally shipped direct from Austrailia.

That's what a flex pipe is for.

SSAC seems to have a hit or miss reputation concerning their parts... they make some stuff well, or there's major flaws in others. But... the heart of the matter is that if you're wanting to do a turbo kit... do a lot of homework and do not skimp. While SSAC has a hit or miss reputation, there are some companies which're making knock-off turbos at extremely low prices that will fail. A turbo setup's probably cheaper than swapping to a B20, but it still has its expensive parts. The bottom line? Cheaply made parts ae cheaply made parts. Quality made parts are quality made parts. You can get bargains on quality parts for sure, but the cheap stuff will always remain the cheap stuff.

I agree with this 100%. Right on.

[AccordEpicenter]

you get what you pay for, guys. A turbo accord on 8psi will rape a B20a all day long

[snoopyloopy]

unless of course the b20a is also on 8 psi. but you'll spend twice as much to get to that as a turbo a20. and check out www.turbochargers.com to buy turbos. seem to be an alright place, altheir their gt series turbos get knocked on for being as crappy as ssac parts. but they do offer a full year warranty on the gt turbos and a dude on the dsm forum blew one of his and said they'll replace it no matter what went wrong whether you installed it wrong or it was a lemon or w/e.