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Thread: Carb problem

  1. #1
    LX User
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    Carb problem

    so my carb generally raps out at right around 2 grand until it either warms up or is put into gear. when in gear it stays right at 1000. its already been adjusted as much as posssible to get it as low as it will go but no effect. badly need rebuilt or vacuum issue?

    some time ago A20A1 assisted me in devac'n the car and it was fine for the longest time. i dont know if something broke all a sudden or WTF.

    id like to change it to the dual carb setup int eh ludes, but from what ive seen the inatke manifold wont mount to my head. if the moneys where plentiful enough id just put an aftermarket carb on there and call it good, but unfortuneately that isnt an option as of yet.



  2. #2

    Whistler225's Avatar
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    Re: Carb problem

    So you only have the timing advance and brake booster for vacuum now?

    I feel ya on the idle issues....I'm going through them now myself. Seems like my car idles ok until I've driven it around a bit, then I'll get in it and start it up and the damned thing will shoot up to 2k-2.5k rpms.....very annoying. I spent some time today replacing as many vacuum lines as I could, and I've taken some filling primer and black paint to my hard lines. It seems to have helped, but I have to go through it some more. Found one vacuum line on my dizzy that was split from the end about 3/4" where it connects to the distributor, replaced the A,B, and C lines. I just wish there was an easy way to get into the black box....tried to get into it today and really couldn't get the thing open completely.
    Have you checked your coolant level? I know sometimes if my car is having alot of trouble maintaining rpms, if I top off the coolant it will settle down. That thermovalve is kind of a pain in the ass sometimes lol....

    Hey Mike....can you safely take the thermovalve out of the equation?

  3. #3
    2ndGenGuy
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    Re: Carb problem

    I heard a really good way to check for vacuum leaks is to use some starting fluid in a spray can. Just spray it around the vacuum lines and when you hear the engine speed up, thats where the starting fuel is being sucked into the vacuum leak.

    BTW Nightstalker, I've never seen pics of your 2gee. Did you smoke the lights yourself or were those aftermarket? Just wondering because I've never seen any accessories for these cars.

  4. #4
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    Re: Carb problem

    whistler sounds like you are having the oposite problem as i. mine idles way high like that when i start it when it hasnt been driven in a couple hours or so. its generally decent when it gets to temp for a bit. when i was driving the car regularly i know my coolant was topped off cause it was having overheating issues till i bled the system and made sure it was full.

    speaking of thermovalves one of mine has a broken nipple on it... i forgot all about that shit. well it got broke when i was devac'n it and like i said it was ok when i first did it.

    i smoked the signals myself, with VHT nightshade.

  5. #5

    Whistler225's Avatar
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    Re: Carb problem

    Quote Originally Posted by NIGHTSTALKER
    whistler sounds like you are having the oposite problem as i. mine idles way high like that when i start it when it hasnt been driven in a couple hours or so. its generally decent when it gets to temp for a bit. when i was driving the car regularly i know my coolant was topped off cause it was having overheating issues till i bled the system and made sure it was full.

    speaking of thermovalves one of mine has a broken nipple on it... i forgot all about that shit. well it got broke when i was devac'n it and like i said it was ok when i first did it.

    i smoked the signals myself, with VHT nightshade.
    yup, the exact opposite problem for me. I think I'm tracking it down though. I've replaced quite a few vacuum lines, painted the rusty steel lines with filling primer and flat black paint, and capped off a few uneccessary vacuum ports. I've backed out both my idle stop and idle control screws all the way, so now it only revs up ocassionally.

    None of that will matter though after Mike gets back from Aus. I'm putting a weber on my car, and he's gonna do the adapter plate for me. When that puppy goes on, all the vacuum except the timing advance and the brake booster is getting yanked, and a manual choke is going in. I shouldn't have any problems after that. I can't wait to get all that crap out of there. The engine will clean up nicely after that.

  6. #6
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    Re: Carb problem

    it does. i was glad when i devac'd mine. soo much nicer lookin and easier to work on.

    but i still need to find a solution to this problem.

  7. #7

    Whistler225's Avatar
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    Re: Carb problem

    well, I know on the devac list he mentions checking your intake gasket and carb gaskets for leaks.....if you suspect a vacuum leak you might check there. Other than that, I would check your timing, and possibly check to see if your float is sticking. When you did the vacuum removal, did you (or have you at any point) rebuilt the carb? Honestly, if it's idling at a consistent 1k rpm (in gear), that isn't that bad..... once mine warms up after about 30 minutes, it idles anywhere from 2k-2.5k.....drives me nuts lol.
    Last edited by Whistler225; 06-03-2006 at 03:39 AM.

  8. #8
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    Re: Carb problem

    it hasnt been rebuilt, but i am workin on it being rebuilt. more than likely before the car hits the streets again i will have it rebuilt.

    i suppose that since it will be a while before it is streetable again there is nothing i can do in the mean time. suckage.

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