If you can, run an A/F gauge. You should run plugs that are 1 degree colder then what you are running now. Listen for detonation. Run with the smallest shot for a while and just make sure everything seems ok. Obvious indicators of somthing not being right are white or blue smoke coming out when you run the nitrous or shortly after and loss of power after using it.
You can't get the rear crank seal out past the fifth main. (Technically, you can't get the new one back in without cutting it in half first.) You will need to pull the trans off the block and remove the flywheel to get to that leaky guy.
Obvious indicators of somthing not being right are white or blue smoke coming out when you run the nitrous or shortly after and loss of power after using it.lol....i dare say that he'll feel a loss of power after using nos whether or not something is wrong.
i to would like to do a performance rebuild, i'll have about a grand with in the next couple of weeks to play with so what all would I want to get to do this performance rebuild? i am also now considering converting to efi if i can find the parts to do it. right now my car has like 126xxx miles and i think is burning a little bit of oil. my future plans are that i would like to run a turbo and what ever i can stick into my engine right now to make it perform better then would be great. also it would be nice if with these upgrades my car performed a little better now... i have an engine lift and stand in my barn and my dad said we could rebuild it. right now all i really had planned was a headkit which includes (guides, springs, retainers, valves) and A4 Pistons .5 overbore.
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 06-11-2006 at 06:18 AM.
a wise choice would be getting everything balanced.
also some headwork would be smart, depending on the hp u are going for, and whether or not you end up turbo (u will need a shitload more headwork and mods to make X hp without turbo, as opposed to if your car WERE turbod).
i delta 272 cam is probably a good choice, and pick up a header and either your EFI swap parts, or a webber kit and your probably easily at 1000 dollars by then.
this is the guy you want to be talking to.http://a20turbo.com/features/chris/ he says he should be puting down 160 hp after the build..Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
thanks for that link i've been looking for that one! and i don't really think i'll be running turbo in this car. so whatever i can get would probly be good. and i think i might ship my head to KMS to have it worked on i'm going to get their Stage 2
Products Included in the Stage 2
Cylinder Head
Services Included in the Stage 2
Mild Port Job
Glass Bead
Fly Cut Head
Valve Job
3-Angle Valve Job
then i'll get their Headkit that has the Valves, Guides, Pistons, Retainers. Then i think i'll get a Oil Pump Remanufacture. I think i'll go with Bobafett and get a Triflow 272
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 06-12-2006 at 05:41 PM.
lol its been in my sig for a while...
i have to fix a leaky head gasket, but hopefully i will eventually finish breaking it in so i can dyno the damn thing.
im definitely not the guy you want to be talking to though... rjudgey is probably the man to speak to about building a20 motors.
i did do a lot of research and put a lot of time/money into the project though... and of course i am eager to see the results.
what else goes into an engine rebuild like if you were to just do a normal engine rebuild?
The tow truck driver, huh? well, you better listen to him! Everyone knows tow truck drivers are the epitome of an automotive education..
I hardly think doing internal motor work with the motor in the car saves time, beacuse it slows everything down drastically, and you could have the motor out in a couple hours. Have you ever tried to plastigage bearings with the motor in the car? F that.. As far as the rebuild, what are your current compression/leakdown readings? The only time I would replace pistons in the car is if I broke a piston and just wanted to get the thing back together and running asap..
You can do a lot of things to increase the power of your motor without removing the botom half of it from the car if your compression readings are still good.
Ok, if my compression is really well? close to perfect what would you suggest to do then?
It's not what you drive, It's that you drive what you got! I LOVE MY 3Gee!
If your compression is anywhere around 170 p.s.i., then you don't need to do nothing to your internals or top end. Period ..........Ok, if my compression is really well? close to perfect what would you suggest to do then?
If your compression varied more than 20% from any cylinder, then you have problems. Other than that, the lowest compression on this engine is somewhere around 145 or so. Personally, I wasn't happy with 150 & rebuilt. But that's me & my wrench turning ass.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 07-06-2006 at 10:06 PM.
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