Doing timing belt on sunday anything I should look out for?

[FyreDaug]

I printed out the how-to from here, ive got a haynes, ive got tools, stands and a good jack and my step dad agreed to give me a hand, so im going to my moms place to do it in their garage.... any particular bolts that are siezed on it? The how to makes it seem so simple, but you know how 20year old cars are for working on....

I didnt get a honda belt, they said they had to order one in, so I just picked one up from the part store today for 40 bucks, its a decent looking belt too so itll do the trick for as long as I decide to keep this car, its just that sunday is the only time I have to do this before I got on a 5000km round trip.... and im at 196k

[detroit313]

your at 196k on the ORIGINAL timimg belt?

[Michael Cote]

Things don't seize there much but getting crank bolt out is hard. Might need a impact gun to free it up and then a good torque wrench to put it on to proper tightness. If you have a 5-speed you can put in gear and hold brake on while tightening crank bolt but if it's an automatic you'll need a proper tool to hold pully or hold small crowbar or flat wheel wrench on flywheel teeth (be careful) behind rubber plug between engine and transmission (check manual) or put light rope in number one cylinder so it stops piston from comming up. Still want to do this job??
_Have a good look at the timming belt washer/guide on lower crank before you take it off and make sure you put in on right or the new belt will get chewed up. Outer edge of washer out. Tighten belt as it says in manual using spring tensioner only.
_Should change waterpump while timming belt guards are off because much easier to get pump off plus there's no chance of getting coolant on belt that way. I changed my waterpump after the fact. Hard on the hands and wished I'd changed it during timming belt change. There are different length w-pump bolts. Remember which hole they came from.
_You'll have to remove alternator bracket. Have a good look at the bracket. There is a spacer that goes between alt and bracket. If you put spacer between bolt and bracket as you'ld think it should go then alt won't line up properly. So it's (right to left standing in front) Bolt, washer, bracket, spacer, alt.
_Take your time and memorize things a bit and you should be OK.. Good luck.

[FyreDaug]

Well im sure it was changed atleast once, last time it was checked was 150k and records indicate it was fine then.... just want to be safe on this trip. Im not doing the water pump, its still flowing water anyways, plus I dont have any more money for this car

[lostforawhile]

Things don't seize there much but getting crank bolt out is hard. Might need a impact gun to free it up and then a good torque wrench to put it on to proper tightness. If you have a 5-speed you can put in gear and hold brake on while tightening crank bolt but if it's an automatic you'll need a proper tool to hold pully or hold small crowbar or flat wheel wrench on flywheel teeth (be careful) behind rubber plug between engine and transmission (check manual) or put light rope in number one cylinder so it stops piston from comming up. Still want to do this job??
_Have a good look at the timming belt washer/guide on lower crank before you take it off and make sure you put in on right or the new belt will get chewed up. Outer edge of washer out. Tighten belt as it says in manual using spring tensioner only.
_Should change waterpump while timming belt guards are off because much easier to get pump off plus there's no chance of getting coolant on belt that way. I changed my waterpump after the fact. Hard on the hands and wished I'd changed it during timming belt change. There are different length w-pump bolts. Remember which hole they came from.
_You'll have to remove alternator bracket. Have a good look at the bracket. There is a spacer that goes between alt and bracket. If you put spacer between bolt and bracket as you'ld think it should go then alt won't line up properly. So it's (right to left standing in front) Bolt, washer, bracket, spacer, alt.
_Take your time and memorize things a bit and you should be OK.. Good luck.

you should really change the oil pump while the belt is out,if it's got a lot of miles on it. not because of it failing,but because of the difficulty of doing it later,they lose flow rate over time from wear. autozone carries one for this car from Melling which is about the best brand pump you can get. I was suprised they made one. I didn't need to touch my alternator to do this. you should have bought a kit with a tensioner and belt together. the tensioner bearing failing is usually what ruins the belt. I got my kit from nappa it's from gates and has the tensioner and belt in one package. it was like 50 bucks. it's usually recommended to replace them together.

[FyreDaug]

Well I didnt, and I am doing this tomorrow, so its just changing the belt.... and btw, #1 TDC has the mark right? It should point up when #1 is at TDC?

[Kabuki]

I wouldn't bother with the tensioner if it's not making ny noise. And I'm a little confused as to why you would bother spending $40 on a crappy aftermarket belt when Honda's list price on the 14400-PC6-004 belt is $38. Just go to the dealer.

[FyreDaug]

Well I bought a can of paint too, ,total was like 41 something.... the belt I think was 29.99, ,and besides honda was closed, 2moro is the only time I have to do this

[Michael Cote]

Disreguard the altenater part of my comment. You only need to loosen it to get alt belt off. I got mixed up on alt change.

Top dead centre is # 1 up on compression stroke. You can tell by feeling cylinder presser if # one sparkplug is out or remove distributer cap and rotor will point to # one plug wire or use cam sprocket marks. Should say in manual what to look for. Just don't turn crank when belt is off or loose.

[bobafett]

easiest way to make sure u are at TDC for cyl 1 is check the flywheel mark.

[lostforawhile]

make sure you look at your crank seal and the cam seal,they leak frequently that will ruin your new belt

[FyreDaug]

Ok well heres a bit of an update, we spent like an hour taking everything off and getting that nasty 14mm lower alt bolt out to get the chewed off serpentine belt off and the last thing we do is take the timing cover off.... yeah smart move dallas. Records indicate TB was checked at 150k, im at 197 now. We inspected the belt on a full crank revolution and there wasnt a single flaw, no marks, cracks or any indication this is a used belt.... Theres no way a belt with ATLEAST 47k will look like that unless its a godly belt that doesnt age... I dont know, we ended up taking it back and getting a new goodyear belt for the alt/water pump and put it all back together. Its good to know the belt is in good shape, im assuming it got done before but there are no records, or it was done before 150k when it was checked... the last guy bought it at around 150k, so I dont know whats up with it, either way the belt was in excellent shape and we left it alone