Car bogging

[Acid X]

EDIT: PROBLEM SOLVED. Check post #19.


Alright. so up until recently the car was running great.. I got my exhaust finished and the car was running awesome.

Anyway, now i'm getting a problem.. The car will SOMETIMES hesitate between 2-3krpm and bog a little bit until i give it a lot more gas and it jumps above 3k rpm...

And now ever since i cleaned out my carb with carb cleaner the problem seems to have gotten worse, and the car will now die every once and a while off the line.. Like, i'll push the gas and the car will bog out and die...

What could be causing this? Someone told me it could be my distributor spring or something... But i'm not too sure on what that is. Haha...

ANyway, please help.

[A18A]

maybe the carb cleaner is still cleaning it out and the engine is getting all the shit from the carb?

[Ichiban]

does it do it when cold? If not, I'd say it's the accelerator pump, clogged or something. With the air filter lid off, give it throttle and watch for fuel spraying into the primary barrel. If it is, then your accel pump is fine. I had a carb where the accel circuit was plugged solid, ran it at 1/4 choke all the time.

[Acid X]

Maybe but that doesnt explain why its hesitating between 2 and 3k... it did that even before the carb cleaner.

[Ichiban]

Vacuum leak?

[Acid X]

does it do it when cold? If not, I'd say it's the accelerator pump, clogged or something. With the air filter lid off, give it throttle and watch for fuel spraying into the primary barrel. If it is, then your accel pump is fine. I had a carb where the accel circuit was plugged solid, ran it at 1/4 choke all the time.

i dont think its that because the car runs fine other than the random hesitation. but ill try to check it out.

[Ichiban]

All else I can think of is maybe you knocked off a hose when you were in there with the carb clean, or some flukey screwup with an idle mixture solenoid.

[A20A1]

Maybe the power valve is clogged, its in the base of the float bowl

The accelerator pump spring could be weak, I replaced the spring with a really firm one and it gave a instant response over the old spring.

What did you do to your exhaust? Did you install any exhaust component too close to the fuel tank or without a heat shield?

[Acid X]

Maybe the power valve is clogged, its in the base of the float bowl
The accelerator pump spring could be weak, I replaced the spring with a really firm one and it gave a instant response over the old spring.
What did you do to your exhaust? Did you install any exhaust component too close to the fuel tank or without a heat shield?

I just finished it off... I took out the cat and its just straight 2.25" piping to the muffler... Same stock bends.

This didnt start happening until after the so cal canyon meet. I'm guessing because i ran the car up to the redline in 2nd gear before slowing down on a straightaway up there.

I just got done changing my oxygen sensor with a BRAND NEW one... 40$... My spark plug wires fell apart when i took them off to get them out of the way of the heat shield... The car seems no different.

My friend says to check the cap and rotor and replace them.. And obviously get some new spark plug wires... I have a replacement set on there but i think they suck, so yeah..

Anyway, now that i did this the damn car wont stop idling at 1900rpms and it bogs out whenever i go to step on the gas.

The car didnt start bogging out when i stepped on the gas until i used the carb cleaner on it yesterday.. Is there any spot where i'm not supposed to spray it or what? I sprayed it in almost every hole i could find...

My car is really beginning to piss me off.. Please help.

[gfrg88]

what you need to do is convert FI!!!!!!


i have no idea what it could be dude, sorry.

[Acid X]

If it were easier i would.

[Acid X]

Alright, well check this out!



That pic shows how much the choke opens. Thats the maximum it will open..

Isn't it supposed to open all the way, to where the choke is vertical? (by push of a finger i mean)

It's almost like something came loose in there or something..

A20A1 i could really use your carb expertise! This may explain my constant stumble at the push of the gas... But i think somethign else is causing my hesitation in between 2-4krpms..

[labeledsk8r]

i had the same problem when i got my carb re-tuned, i would hit the gas to leave a light or a stop, and it would drop down and almost die. i had few problems, 1 i had a disconected vacum line after the tuneing aswell as a vacum line conecter was snaped. after those were fixed it still boged some, so i uped the idle a bit and it seems to run fine, i have my idle at 900-1,000rpms

[A20A1]

My expertise I just removed the plate when mine didn't open fully anymore.

The choke opener is to open the choke a little and vary the opening based on vacuum, after that its up to the electric choke to open it the rest of the way.

When you redline you hit the fuel cut, try disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnect it... not sure if it will do anything. Check your float level when the car is running.

you may have a faulty idle adjustment due to your choke being where it is. Or the Fast Idle is not disengaging which will also cause faulty idle adjustment.
Either fix the choke and adjust the idle again or remove the choke and adjust the idle again. Also check for vacuum leaks. You may have a vacuum leak to the fast idle unloader or the choke opener.
Don't forget to go over things covered in this thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572
it will help is setting up the idle.

There are some bogging problems with the vacuum removal mod assuming there is no vacuum leaks, sometimes all it takes is a weaker spring on the mechanical advance inside the distributor.
Also some fiddling with the opening point of the secondary.

[Acid X]

I'll check for vacuum hoses that are disocnnected again, just to make sure..

What is keeping the choke from being able to open all the way, even by push of the finger? I could have sworn i used to be able to move the choke to a point where it was completely vertical.. Maybe i'm wrong.

I think my fuel pump may be dying... I'm going to get a friend to test it asap, but unfortunatley i'm going out of town tomorrow for a week.. I doubt i'll get it fixed today. Unfortuntaely.

[Dave]

I'll check for vacuum hoses that are disocnnected again, just to make sure..

What is keeping the choke from being able to open all the way, even by push of the finger? I could have sworn i used to be able to move the choke to a point where it was completely vertical.. Maybe i'm wrong.

I think my fuel pump may be dying... I'm going to get a friend to test it asap, but unfortunatley i'm going out of town tomorrow for a week.. I doubt i'll get it fixed today. Unfortuntaely.

I had the same problem with stumbling between 2,000 rpm and 3,000rpm, even after I did a full tune up I still had the same problem, found out it was a defective pcv valve (by process of elimination), replaced it with the new Honda plastic valve from the Honda dealer part#17130-PH1-003, other brands did not work as smoothly.

[Dave]

Check black the vacuum diaphram on the side of the carburetor( has two ports), make sure its connected and has vacuum when the engines warmed up, if not then replace your thermo valve on the metal coolant neck near the distributor, I had the same problem with choke not opening fully and high idle all the time, but i got fed up with replacing thermo valves and got a Weber 38/38

[A20A1]

I thought that the thermovalve on the thermostat housing was for the vacuum secondary.

The black vacuum diaphragm by the choke housing goes to the thermovalve at the rear of the intake manifold, the other thermovalve at the rear is for the #25 vacuum advance.

The location of valves etc. may be different depending on what country you are in.

[Acid X]

PROBLEM SOLVED

Alright, so the car is fixed. I've been out of state so i havent been able to work on it or anything.. So a friend of mine finally towed it to his honda dealership and had the techs look at it.

Turns out, somehow one of the venturis came loose and was just laying inside the carb... The screw holding it in just disappaeared! They couldn't find it anywhere inside the carb... He found this out while he was trying to rebuild my carb.

Luckily another tech already had a rebuild carb in his tool box from a ways back and they just put the middle piece of the carb in with my original top and bottom pieces...

So the car runs GREAT now... No more retarded problems.

I really wish i didnt waste that $100+ trying to figure out what was wrong in the first place.


Anywho, the car purrs like a champion and she's just about ready for the move up to seattle.

I've decided that i'm going to put my stock carb box on because im going to have to pass smog soon enough when i try to get her registered in washington.

Should be a nice little task.