gonna replace axles, help needed

[ZackieDarko]

I have never done this and have questions.

Aside from the axles them selves what else should I get?

I don't want to get super crazy with stuff just wana put new axles in, are there any seals/bearings etc I should replace?

Thanks.

[silentmadness]

Its easy did it like last week just pop them out and put the new ones in. I had a lift so it was really easy, but to get the ball joints loose just hit the knuckle with a hamer next to the ball joint. The only thing you will need to get is prob new cotter pins maybe do the ball joints while your at it.

[mhopton]

Follow this thread - it is exact directions to a "T".

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28515

Don't use a hammer to separate the ball joint, go to Advance, O'Reilly, or whatever auto parts store you have and either buy, or get them to loan you a ball joint separator, which looks like a tapered tuning fork. It'll seperate the ball joint without destroying it. The thread above shows to use a 4" gear puller to seperate the ball joint, but that didn't work for me - in fact it destroyed the gear puller. Slide the correct tool, ball joint tool, in there give it a few good whacks and the joint will pop right out.

It's not a bad job, but you will need a couple of things:

Long breaker bar
32mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, or adapter for 3/8"
Grease for spindles
3.2 quarts of tranny fluid - Dexron II or III
Box O'Gloves if you wanna keep your hands from looking disgusting for the next week.
Long and wide flat blade screw driver to pry out the axle from the tranny.
Good tunes
Guinness Beer.

Plan for about 3-4 hours for the first time you do it, the next time will take maybe 2 if you work slow.

[A18A]

lol edited

[Blkblurr]

To separate the ball joint, get a tie rod end puller at Advance Auto for about 10 bucks. This is much easier than using a fork type separator. Leave the castle nut on but loosened enough that the center threaded rod of the puller fits into the castle nut. This keeps it in place and stops it from deforming the threads of the ball joint post. Keep cranking on the puller until it pops. You're done. Next time after that it's very easy to separate the ball joint or tie rod end. I would get new castle nuts and maybe a bolt that hold the damper fork on. That bolt can be a pain to remove cause it rusts in the steel and rubber bushing.