My 1986 LX-i

[Tecknixia]

The power steering pump belt adjustment is possibly the most ghetto thing I've seen Honda design. I read the service manual and even did it that way, and I'm still thinking... Do you seriously have to pry up the pump to get the belt tight? That's ghetto. Anyways, no more squeeking, and power steering is working perfectly.

I need a couple relays for this thing. I was trying to figure out why the right front window will roll down (sometimes), but not roll up. There was also hesitation with the left front window... but it works more often then the right window. I checked the fuses (in case the current was jumping) and they are good. I took out the window relay and put it back in. While I was holding it I noticed it was warm. I felt the relay next to it, and it was cold. I think the window problem is the relay.

(Problem fixed... here's the thread: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=737231)

Also, when I put my hazards on, sometimes only one side of the car will light up, so I need the hazards relay also.

My reverse lights don't come on, so I guess I need to replace the bulbs.

Other then that, the only thing that I'm not happy with is the fact that the car spews smoke (from oil) out of the exhaust, even when just idling. If anyone has a spare engine, I need one...

Also, if anyone has those relays, I need those too.

[Tecknixia]

So I keep hearing that after Dec 31rst I won't have to worry about emissions, so I can get the car registered... I just need to wait.

I was driving it today and it hesitated again, almost lost power, but power came back... so I guess it still has that problem. I've replaced the distributer wire harness, the distributer cap, and spark plug wires... so I suppose it could either be the spark plugs themselves, or the coil or ignitor...

... actually, come to think of it, it could just be the main relay... it seems like a lot of relays are failing on this car... weird. I bet either that's it, or the coil/ignitor because it kinda stumbles when first starting.

After I fix this problem, and putting some no smoke in there, I'll probably just drive it around with a for sale sign in the window while I replace the axle and fix the power steering problems on my prelude. I'll probably sell it for like $600.

Then get me a hatchback.

[Tecknixia]

My prelude wouldn't start one day, so I had to call up the insurance company and get insurance started on the Accord. I've been spending so much money lately it's depressing. So I've been driving it around for a few days.

The biggest problem the car has that bothers me is that when the gas needle gets towards the bottom of the gauge, the car sometimes stumbles at idle. When the tank is full, it's fine. Seems like a fuel pressure issue. I bought a fuel filter for it, so hopefully that takes care of it.

The first day I drove it, it was smoking a lot from under the hood. I suspect it could either be an oil leak, or left over power steering fluid from when I replaced the pump shaft seal. I haven't noticed it as much recently, but it's been very cold outside. So I don't know if it went away, or if it's something I need to pay attention to.

Both axles are clicking.

The clutch pedal doesn't work smoothly. It feels hard to press, but doesn't come up willingly either. So I guess it needs a new cable and return spring.

The headlight assembly on the left side is missing a bolt and it bounces with uneven surfaces of the road. I'm sure it's very annoying to other drivers.

The gas pedal responds as SOON as I touch it, and I usually have a slightly high idle, so I should probably adjust the throttle cable to give it some slack.

When it was cold and I first started driving the car again... something was making a high pitched whirring sound in the clutch. Pressing the clutch pedal affected the sound... and usually got louder when I pressed it in, but was still present when releasing the clutch pedal. It's not so appearent now since I've been driving it around, but if I drive off without warming up the car and it's cold outside, the noise is there.

I also have some clutch chatter.

Last thing that bothers me is that the rear view mirror won't stay in place... it's become loose over the years.

Oh yeah, and theres some vibration at highway speeds... I'm assuming it's the tires.

On the bright side, the brakes feel good now... strange, because I thought they were pulsating after I turned the rotors, but now it's fine... oh well, cool.

The car still isn't registered, and I got my Prelude started again, so now I'll put the car back in storage. I have until the 4th of January to get my car registered, so I'll probably try the no-smoke thing and see if it'll pass emissions this month... if not, I'll just wait until after the first because I won't need to get an emissions test then.

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Edit [12-05-2006]: I just finished changing the fuel filter... when I poured the gas out of the old one, it came out a nasty muddy brown, more so towards the bottom of the filter of course.

Oh, and I also re-adjusted the FIV, so maybe it won't fluctuate while warming up anymore.

[mushroom_toy]

You work fast man lol.

[Tecknixia]

Well, I'm gonna sell the car.

Not right away, but it smokes too much, so it's not worth keeping.

I put in half a bottle of "NO-SMOKE" with leak sealer, and some Penzoil 10w-30... that shit is smoking just as bad if not worse then when I had Mobil1 synthetic in it.

Hmm, I broke a plastic screwdriver handle and strained a muscle in my neck trying to get the old oil filter off... maybe it hadn't been replaced in a while. I think the screwdriver was caught on something that wouldn't let it turn though. I got it eventually.

I found some relays from my wrecked prelude, and swapped out the cooling fan and power window relays. The passenger side window still got stuck trying to move the window up. It'll move down just fine (although slowly) but it sometimes moves up and sometimes doesn't. When it's not moving up it won't help to pull up on the window... it only helps when it's moving slowly.

I don't think there was a problem with the cooling fan, there may be a problem with one of the coolant sensors though.

Adjusting the FIV definitely fixed the fluctuating idle issue. The idle is set a little high... more then likely it was done at the throttle body... probably to keep the car from dying at times. The throttle cable has enough slack in it.

I might spend some time making the car seem less like a POS and clean it, primer rust spots, lubricate window sliders and power door locks, etc. I don't know though.

Hmm... I guess I do work fast... lol

[Tecknixia]

So now my car is road legal... but the insurance card I have expires on the 4th... ha! I have insurance, but I need the proof of it.

The other problem is, the lady at the DMV said that the title wasn't signed right by the sellers... but she took it anyways, but she said I might get a letter from the state. I asked what if I couldn't get a hold of the previous owners... she said the state would contact them. Well, I hope everything gets worked out easily... because I might be selling the car again.

At least it's insured and registered for now.

This engine smokes BAD while it's idling... but when I'm accellerating I don't see a cloud or anything... I wonder if changing the PCV valve would make any difference or not. That's the next thing I'm going to do, that and changing the injector seals.

Edit: oh I forgot to add that I added the missing bolt to the headlight assembly so it won't bounce anymore... and I lined up the washers with where it looked like the washers had been before and tested the pop ups and both motors are working properly and no weird noises.

[killa_16]

you have done alot 2 that car...lol...seems like u keep finding sumthing new every day lol good luck with everything

[Reptile]

On the 22nd or 23rd I am picking up my new 87 LX-i hatch same color as yours for $1500 on ebay. I am going to pick it up and drive it from Florida back to Kansas City where I live. I am looking forward to the long trip to get to know my new friend.

God I missed having a 3G!

[MessyHonda]

On the 22nd or 23rd I am picking up my new 87 LX-i hatch same color as yours for $1500 on ebay. I am going to pick it up and drive it from Florida back to Kansas City where I live. I am looking forward to the long trip to get to know my new friend.
God I missed having a 3G!

congrats....that car better be mint for that much money

[Reptile]

Actually one of the fenders and underside of the hood is a different color but the biggest thing is that it is rust free. A $100 paint job can fix that minor problem and the guy has made any other mechanical repairs that it needed. I have his word in writing that it will run well enough to drive cross-country and after spending a lot of time talking to him I believe him. If I did not think the car was worth the price I would not have paid it.

[Tecknixia]

Congrats on the 87 LX-i hatch!

Yeah this car I have has it's problems. Appearently... my friend said that the smoke smells like coolant.... but I swear it looks like oil... so, it could possibly be some of both. It also seems like I may be losing coolant. I remember the car trying to overheat on a warm day too. So, I'm pretty sure the head gasket is leaking.

On top of that, my friend said the reason the clutch is so hard to press is because of the throw out bearing. I tried pulling up on the clutch arm with my hand, but it's HARD to move. I took one end of the clutch cable off and noticed it moved easily enough. I returned the new clutch cable I bought. So basically it also needs a clutch job.

The dude I bought it from said it just needed some TLC... but damn! I didn't know he meant overhauling the whole car!

Dispite a fuel issue, and overheating in hot weather (no problems in cold weather), the car runs great though! It's a shame it needs so much work. There is someone who will more then likely buy this one from me if I decide to get a hatch. He knows about the TO bearing and engine problems and is still interested in it.

[MessyHonda]

the coolant and oil could be your headgasket.

[Tecknixia]

Yeah, I'm thinking that's what it is.

I forgot to mention the car's engine power cuts out at random. I made another thread about it and it was determined to be the fuel pump.

So this car needs:
1) headgasket
2) fuel pump
3) clutch TO bearing
4) new axles
5) alignment

I talked to this one dude that has an lxi hatchback and will be getting a newer car soon. He still has the hatchback and will let me know when he's ready to sell it. The scary thing is that the car has over 300,000 miles on it. I've seen him driving it around though, and didn't notice it smoking... so that's a good sign.

I'll hopefully be able to buy it for around $600 and sell the car I have now for around $200 - $300.

[shepherd79]

rule #1: never use Synthetic oil on engine with a lot of mileage. My engine started to smoke after i started to use synthetic oil. I will never use it again unless i have freshly rebuild engine or new style engine.

[MessyHonda]

Yeah, I'm thinking that's what it is.
I forgot to mention the car's engine power cuts out at random. I made another thread about it and it was determined to be the fuel pump.
So this car needs:
1) headgasket
2) fuel pump
3) clutch TO bearing
4) new axles
5) alignment
I talked to this one dude that has an lxi hatchback and will be getting a newer car soon. He still has the hatchback and will let me know when he's ready to sell it. The scary thing is that the car has over 300,000 miles on it. I've seen him driving it around though, and didn't notice it smoking... so that's a good sign.
I'll hopefully be able to buy it for around $600 and sell the car I have now for around $200 - $300.

yeah that is alot of work.....i would get a lower mile car try to get an 89

[Tecknixia]

I definitely would... but I don't want to spend a lot of money (my main car is my 3rd gen prelude, the accord is my beater), and I want a hatchback. I would be willing to fix up one that has problems as long as it has good emissions and is drivable.

If I didn't want a hatch so bad I'd buy a headgasket or another engine, a TO bearing, and a fuel pump and do the work myself...

I'm sure I would enjoy the car then... but one of the reasons I want a hatch is since I use the car to throw newspapers, the sedan's driver window is too small, it restricts my arm movement when throwing papers and it's annoying. A coupe would work too, but I'm going to be moving stuff, so a hatch would be better.

I really would love to be able to spend $1500 or so on a low mileage 89 hatch with manual trans, but it would take time to find one, and I can't afford to spend that much

Well, since i still have this car for now, I've been trying to figure out why the power window in the right front door will go down, but only occasionally go up. I tried testing the wires. I found out from the service manual the way the motor works, is it has two wires going to it. When you move the switch to the up position, it sends voltage through one wire, while the other is grounded. When you move the switch do the down position, it sends voltage through the opposite wire, while the other is grounded. Basically it swaps polarities depending on which way you want the motor to go, and both wires are grounded when the motor is off.

Here's the weird thing. When I move the switch to down, I get 14V on one wire... the way it's supposed to work... but when I move the switch to up, I get half the volts (6 something) on both wires! It's not constant either, it jumps between 0 and 6 something volts. It seems like something is shorting out and leaking voltage to ground. I need to do more testing to find out whether it's a switch, the wiring, or the motor.

rule #1: never use Synthetic oil on engine with a lot of mileage. My engine started to smoke after i started to use synthetic oil. I will never use it again unless i have freshly rebuild engine or new style engine.

I've heard that you're not supposed to use synthetic oil on a new engine either, it affects the break in process... so don't use it on a freshly rebuilt one. Wait until it's broken in first.

[Tecknixia]

The power window problem is definitely the motor. I tested the wires coming from the switch going to the motor, disconnected from the motor and they work as they should.

I'll probably take the motor out (as soon as I get the window to go up a little bit), and prop the window somehow for now. Then, when I can get to it, I'll take the motor out of the right rear door and install it into the right front door and prop up the right rear window somehow. I will then eventually disassemble and inspect the motor that was originally from the right front door. Hopefully I'll be able to fix it... if not, then oh well.

Edit: Crap! Just found out online that the front and rear motors are different! Aw, that sucks!

Edit number 2: Problem solved, it wasn't the motor, here's the thread: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=737231

[2oodoor]

You could probably swap the guts outta those, just rob the motor brushes out of the rear motor. There are some interesting threads if you search, I think everybodys windows are slow sometimes. You just have to make sure the tracks are lubed with silcone, and that the window does not bind, anything that makes the motor work too hard, eliminate.
Make sure grounds are good, voltage drop occurs on the ground side as well.

[Tecknixia]

Thanks for the tip... if it comes down to it, I'll try that. With the wires disconnected from the motor I get 14V on whichever wire is supposed to be positive depending on the direction the switch is pushed. With the wires connected to the motor, in the down direction the motor works fine 14V on that wire... but when I push the switch up, I get half the voltage on both wires.

The motor will click only sometimes, most of the time it won't even try to move. That window doesn't move smooth, but I can pull up on the window while pushing the switch and it still won't move at all. It's like I'm not even pushing the switch. I suppose it could just be a matter of resoldering something inside the motor or something.

Oh and good news, the dude who I might be getting the hatchback from says it's an 89! Yay!

[Tecknixia]

Well, I've stumbled upon a new option...

I found this on craigslist.com... it's an 88 LX-i, and is about 40 min away from me.

--- the listing ---

i am offering this car, as i bought this for 850.00. apparently i got ripped really good, as it needs $850.00 worth of work underneath. i can't afford this at all. i am offering this for $350.00. the inside is clean, the body is still good. the gas milage is fantastic!!! (1/2 tank almost 300 miles) i hate to get rid of this, its a great car to drive, however, i cannot afford the repair. i have a clear title for this. it needs;
moter mount
(2) upper ball joints
(2) outter tie rod rims
front end alignment
muffler

---

I emailed him and asked about the condition of the engine and other things. If the engine is good... I can get this car, swap over good parts from the 86, and then sell the 86 to my friend who will fix it up for himself.

The problem is... I don't know if it's a manual or auto... and the 86 has a good manual transmission. I could swap the auto to a manual, but I'll need a 88-89 manual ecu for the 88 and a 86-87 auto ecu for the 86.

OR... I could just use the auto transmission, and let my friend have the manual... and then cry... jk.

Edit: the dude never got back to me, I guess he sold the car

[Tecknixia]

Ok, now about these power windows...

I just took the motor out and took it apart, didn't notice anything wrong, put it back together hoping it would work, but nope, it does the same thing. It's not the window track either, because when I tested the motor, I didn't even have it inside the door.

I tested continuity between the connector and the brushes in the motor... one pin goes to one brush, the other pin goes to the other brush... no problems. Continuity does not cross over.

I made sure the brushes were put back in correctly and did not pop out upon re-assembly (there's a trick to this).

I'm beginning to think there's nothing wrong with the motor itself, and the problem lies elsewhere. I'll probably be testing the switches again next... more thoroughly this time.

It does make sense that if I'm losing a connection to ground, both wires to the motor would be the same voltage... (they are electrically connected through the motor) but why half the voltage, and why does it keep jumping between that and 0 volts? Hmm, could there be an intermittent short, with normally enough resistance to create a 7 volt voltage drop, to ground in the power wire used to move the window up?

I'll probably make a seperate thread for this later. (https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=737231)

Edit: Oh, and I forgot to mention the left rear window does the same thing, but is more likely to move if you hold the switch. Once again, it rolls down, but won't roll up right away.

[Tecknixia]

Well, I have a few new developments...

Got a fuel pump from a Junkyard for $10. It's $1 to enter... so really $11. After pulling it I realized that the car had just over 300,000 miles on it... but it looked clean and everything, so maybe it had already been replaced in that car.

I also got a newer year sidemarker for $3 to replace the broken '86 one. When I was done I was like, oh crap, it would have helped to get a matching one for the other side... oh well, I can go back later.

Nearly every LX-i there (which was quite a few) still had an engine. I also saw one in a 2nd gen prelude. I think I saw about 5 fuel injected A20s. I also saw a ZC. There were also 2 3gee hatches.

Engines are $100, no warranty, plus a $25 core charge.

So basically, I can fix this car up real cheap... here's the thing though...

A while back I used to have 2 3rd gen preludes. I sold one to a friend for $2,200. The sad thing is, he hadn't changed the oil since he bought it from me. He also never got plates for it and got pulled over without insurance (the temp tag he got for it expired nearly a year ago). So it got impounded. He's being charged $15 a day. He doesn't have a job and doesn't have any money... and if he doesn't get it out in 30 days it goes to public auction. So I made him a deal...

I get the car out of the impound and keep it, and in return for the favor, I give him my 3gee Accord. So I'm gonna fix it up a little bit for him. This way, he'll still have a car, and I'll get my Prelude back instead of it going to public auction. That way I'll have a spare engine, clutch, and transmission for my other Prelude.

Haha, I told my friend I am tempted to pick up one of those A20 engines from the junkyard for myself just to have one for when I get another Accord someday (a hatch next time). Really though, I'll just wait for when I actually get the Accord.

Edit:

I just changed the fuel pump. Um... it's easy... I thought it would have been harder. The car feels sooo much more reliable! $10 well spent!