static retard vs BTM vs EDIS/MS

[newaccorddriver]

of all the options of timing up there, static retard is the fastest. apparently from what elijah told me, his first setup didnt have any timing management at all cause his BTM wasnt working properly. static retarded timing would be my easiest solution to my turbo problem i guess.

i can probably get a BTM or silimar for cheap, but it never worked for elijah so that really got me wondering what other options i had. BTM is the most practical, but its kinda costly from my current situation.

EDIS/MS is somewhat hard for me to get. i cant get the trigger wheel that easily, although i think i sourced out a 36 tooth wheel already which i just gotta take a tooth out. the bad thing is the MS unit i have doesnt seem to be saving that easily or at all, so i really have no idea whats wrong or if it even works properly.


i havent got my block back from the machine shop yet, but as soon as it comes back, its just a matter of time before my accord will hit the road again. as soon as its broken in, im gonna boost it. i just cant decide what i want to do for timing. static retard is the easiest and cheapest, BTM is costly and i still gotta find one, and EDIS/MS is the hardest to setup, but once set up its simply a matter of tuning... im kinda anxious to get my car on the road and boosted, but i dont wanna end up where i am right now and without another engine, so which is the most practical/safe solution?

[89T]

btm..
i seen one brand new on ebay for $189 i paid $350 for mine a couple years ago.
you get an upgraded ignition system and adjustibility, you cant beat that.

[newaccorddriver]

btm..
i seen one brand new on ebay for $189 i paid $350 for mine a couple years ago.
you get an upgraded ignition system and adjustibility, you cant beat that.

wouldnt megasquirt with the EDIS system be better in a sense that all the extra work would be worth the effort? BTM only retards timing by a set degree per pound of boost, so wouldnt it only be optimal for certain RPMs/boost levels?

[bobafett]

btm is still ghetto management... its just easy to get a car safely driveable. edis + ms2 will be a much better solution in the long run, if you can work through the kinks.

the btm / safc combo is widely reguarded as about the cheapest and most ghetto of 'real' management solutions... (ie better than check valves and an fmu lol) but realistically it does an ok job for a rough tune. if you already have a MS setup, i would work on that!

[newaccorddriver]

actually, i have an MS unit that was prebuilt. i can easily upgrade it to MS2, but i wanna work on just fuel temporarily. a guy that i live near claims to be able to tune MS/MS2 very easily and efficiently and get almost any possible results that id like for a decent price. im kinda holding the whole MS idea back until i get my motor up and running and somehow work out on why my MS unit doesnt like to burn anything to the ECU. im gonna have a hard time mounting the trigger wheel though. it seems like a royal pain in the ass which makes ghetto management look like gold

[bobafett]

yeah i hear you... i am planning on doing an obd1 swap with a p75 ecu and running crome pro for management. but there is a lot of stuff to work through for that plan to come to fruition!

MS seems like the linux of EMS systems, i just don't think i'm ready for that level homebrew ingenuity being required. i certainly don't have the ability to mount a crank trigger wheel on my crank pulley rofl.

[newaccorddriver]

i guess ill probably run MS with the fuel only portion for now and run a BTM. although thats still alot of work compared to just going BTM/SAFC. i guess i dont have to trick the map sensor any more since MS has one built in ready to read boost

[89T]

i cought you guy's on that setup!
alittle more time i would have surpassed you.(or did I! I am at 6000 ft in elevation.)
in my opinnion you are good to 300 hp on a btm and afc hack.
use the check valve though.
whats the big deal though, most people on this board don't want or need more than 200hp.
just because everybody on honda-tech knock's it, it doesent mean it doesent work. If it works fuck it use it!

sincerely yours frustrated.

[AccordEpicenter]

200hp is soo easy to get, youll probably get it at 9psi with a good tune on a good setup. The btm/safc/450cc injectors will work but i do not reccomend it for more than 10-12 psi boost due to maxing out the stock map sensor, you should really use better fuel control. The btm works pretty good but is not nearly as precise or reliable as digital timing controls found in obd1 honda ecus. I guess it depends on how much power you want to support, ie, for 12psi and below i think it would be nice to have the adjustability of an obd1 ecu or MS but the amount of time and effort to upgrade to it would only give you soo much benefit, where as for higher psi and power levels it is a necessity

[newaccorddriver]

i went shopping at a local hardware store and i found a 36 tooth wheel. i actually thought about welding it onto my crank pulley and taking out 1 tooth for MS2. im not sure what kind of metal it is though, so i cant compare it to the actual crank trigger, and im not sure if the VR sensor will pick up any random metal at all

[newaccorddriver]

200hp is soo easy to get, youll probably get it at 9psi with a good tune on a good setup.

i plan to run maybe 200hp as a daily driver and will probably load up a different map and set things a bit different to get roughly 250-300hp when i hit the tracks. but 89turbo'ed is right though, we dont really need more then 200hp realisticly for daily driving, but for spirited driving or tracks, we are greedy fuckers

[AccordEpicenter]

with all the calculators ive put my car through they give me a crank hp of 270 at about 13psi. Thats about 235 ish whp