my final problem :D (i think)

[A18A]

well now that the car runs great and all, im pretty sure its going thru a whole lot of petrol, i recently just put $20 in and its already empty thats about 2 galons?? well anybody help me out there please??? i have replaced both fuel filters and dunno what else to do, dont think its the pump though so yeah, cant really think of anything else that would help any ideas??? last problem for the car im sure!!!!!!!!
well we dont drive the car anywere cause it has nno wof or rego just sits on the drive way, car is carbed, i find the car runs well as in it idles well, doesnt stall out, steady idle, more responsive etc. just shitty on petrol. only hoses that i have off the car is the dizzys vacuum advance thingy and these 2 hoses that go to this red thingy the bolts into the water line cause it broke. oh car has 180000kms (bout 110000 miles)

[HondaBoy]

how many km's have you gone on the amount of gas? your's is carbed right? check for vacuum leaks. maybe check the timing if you can. but i dunno if you say the car runs well. my car will go a little over 120 miles for 6 gallons of gas. so about 20mpg, thats with my ac going.

[A20A1]

That pic doesn't help much.

Is your camera digital?

Where is the red thingy that broke? I think you ar refering to a thermovalve.
Do you think you could get a pic of the vaccum diagram under your hood?
and a close up of any places you want to show us.

I'm not sure what thermovalve that is...

There is a sticker on your hood... well on the underside surface of your hood.

It looks like it is in red and white.

like these:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40679

[ghettogeddy]

that thired plug wire looks a little short

[A20A1]

#2

from left to right 4__3_2__1

[ghettogeddy]

ya

[2drSE-i]

to me it doesnt even look like its connected to the distributor.....check all vacuum hoses, change your distributor cap and rotor if it hasnt been done in a while, maybe plugs too.

[A18A]

yeah the lead is short a bit, came from the barina, but the last leads were so shitty, and my brother helped himself to my leads from the other car so yeah. these leads are better anyways.

That pic doesn't help much.

Is your camera digital?

Where is the red thingy that broke? I think you ar refering to a thermovalve.
Do you think you could get a pic of the vaccum diagram under your hood?
and a close up of any places you want to show us.

what do you mean by the vacuum diagram??????
this is all i could get a pic of without having to remove the air cleaner sorry.



PS:

ya

thats the only one i could find but hey

ok, asuming this is the 1 you want. sorry it aint in english and its a bit dirty , but hopefully you can still understand it
damn what would i do w/o this camera

tight
hehe post whore it up man
not really. you should definately fix that tho, try to find a vacuum diagram for ur car.

asuming u mean inside of the black box, this is what its like:


ergh this post is fuct in the head, sorry ppl, dunno what happened

[ghettogeddy]

oh its cool im not mad just helping out i think two of your wires are in the wrong place

[A20A1]

Looks like it's a part of EGR.

And it has a connection to the throttle port vaccum near the base of the carb.



I Think you might want to plug the #11's untill you get a new thermovalve.
Does EGR run off of a valve like this?

[A18A]

im a bit of a nub so gotta ask, whats a EGR??? oh i cant get the car running till i put petrol in it and someone comes jumpstart it

and im right onto plugging the 11's

oh its cool im not mad just helping out i think two of your wires are in the wrong place

oh i dont think they are i did have them in the wrong place once started but didnt rev aboe 800 coz it was running on 2 cylinders lol :O although i wish they were so i could correct them and car would run 7648765764767 times better

[A20A1]

yeah I can read

バルブ (barubu) Valve
サーモ (sa-mo) Thermo
ソレノイド (sorenoido) Solenoid
アコード (ako-do) Accord

...okay this is taking to long to copy and past each character.

[A18A]

yeah I can read

バルブ (barubu) Valve
サーモ (sa-mo) Thermo
ソレノイド (sorenoido) Solenoid
アコード (ako-do) Accord

...okay this is taking to long to copy and past each character.

edit: oh i need a japanese font thingy for my computer right?? coz all foreign characters just shows as question marks right???

so back to my origonal problem, why does my fuel go so fast??? i wanna at least make it last like a 2 litre engine not a 5 litre chevy or something

[A20A1]

Thanks to your picture I now have an A18A sticker
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40679

fix the vaccum leak from #11(s) and get back to us.

[A18A]

lol..

how would i fix the vacuum leak??? i plugged the hoses for now as you said

[A20A1]

Okay then you stopped the leak... did you try and run the motor? any changes?

[A18A]

Okay then you stopped the leak... did you try and run the motor? any changes?

nah gonna try tommorow or sometime when someone comes home (to jumpstart car) and after i get petrol. but would something this small cause my car to be using alot of petrol??

[A20A1]

A needle, a bit of broken gasket, a crack in an o-ring.

Small things, crutial things can have a big impact when not in good shape. They assume 99.99% effectiveness. There is nothing there keeping it in check if it fails.

A crack in the float bowl o-ring(s) Fuel leaks into float bowl unregulated.
Assumes regulation. No regulation fuel fills above limit or at a quicker rate, high fuel level causes excess fuel to spill more easily into the carb barrels.
More fuel is added to less air, fuel mixture becomes rich, plugs foul, cat clogs, monkeys catch on fire.

you get the idea though.

[A18A]

ahh i see, well looks like i got a boring day ahead of me tomorrow ohwell. could there be some kind of settings that i can adjust for a lean mix???

[A18A]

you turn the A/F screw in to lean the mixture... out to richen it... out is counterclockwise.

There are 2 screws holding the float bowl window to the side of the carb body... I would only mess with it with the carb off though.

that's the screw with the yellow paint on it right? if i screw this in would it run better?? if so, how much leaner??

[A20A1]

No the yellow paint screw at the top of the carburetor is for the Float Level settings.

Don't mess with the A/F screw unless it fell out or is leaking. And the A/F screw is more for idle, the float bowl is the almighty.

[A18A]

ahh well i found this crack dont think thats the reason for the fuel guzzling but here it is:

oh yeah i started the car (finally) and it wasnt as reponsive as before, maybe its just cause its cold, dont know, i could smell heaps of fumes from the exhaust too, like petrol was just pissing outta it. got a couple of vids of the car but there too big to upload, and there in MOV format, and its at night so u cant see shit

[A20A1]

You disconnected you vaccum advance?

How come?

You either have so much fuel it's not igniting, or no ignition and the fuel is being pushed out of the one or more cylinders that didn't fire.


Have you looked at the float level?

Usually a bad pump would make you run lean.


the odd thing about that crack in the A/S valve gasket is you can't tell if it's leaking by using the carb cleaner method.

[A18A]

You disconnected you vaccum advance?

How come?

You either have so much fuel it's not igniting, or no ignition and the fuel is being pushed out of the one or more cylinders that didn't fire.


Have you looked at the float level?

Usually a bad pump would make you run lean.


the odd thing about that crack in the A/S valve gasket is you can't tell if it's leaking by using the carb cleaner method.

i find the car runs alot smoother without the vacuum advance even when cold and warm.

i have started the car, and it apears to start 1st turn, so i dont think theres that much fuel that it wets the plugs or anything, well i hope that it doesnt.

what am i suposed to look for when im checking the float level?? i know it should be in the center of the glass, but how would that help?

and does that crack in the gasket mean anything much??

[A20A1]

If it's leaking it could prevent air from getting sucked into the chamber for use with those white valves that release the air to lean the mixture.

The float level is what keeps a balanced fuel flow under a given atmospheric pressure.

Thats why when you go into higher altitudes you will need to adjust the float level again... and even may need to change jets. Or buy a high altitude jetted carb if jets cannot be changed.

Too high a float level and fuel just spills into the carb without the need for vacuum from the venturies... too low and the vacuum from the venturies is not enough to pull out the fuel it needs.

Think of a a scale... and the platforms of the scale as the fuel levels.



on the left is the fuel level in the jets, on the right the fuel level in the float bowl.

when you run the motor, vaccum is created, the weight on the left side of the scale is removed, the weight on the right is the same.
So the left side of the scale is lighter and rises, so the fuel level is higher.

The orrifice the fuel comes out of it just above the float level. So when fuel in the jets raise above the float level fuel starts entering the carb barrels.