You sorted that wiring out good! Very nice job. It's obviuos you're no rookie at this. So no CEL's?
You sorted that wiring out good! Very nice job. It's obviuos you're no rookie at this. So no CEL's?
Badass! What's better than a 3gee? A 2gee with an A20...
I bet she really flys too. That's like a 30hp bump right there.
The sweetness! Glad you checked on the driver before you snapped those semi wreck pics! I'm guessing no AC on the swap? In this case, that's good. And I can tell you the ONLY freaking 84-85 Accord that does not have factory cruise is the 3 door "S" Accord. Trust me, ALL the other trims got the cruise standard. I like how you did all that work to go from a carb. setup to an EFI A20 from the next generation Accord and said "Yeah, gotta get the clock and radio installed." I'm guessing that'll go pretty easy. Just a guess though. Classic.
LOL Hilarious! I didn't make the connection between all the work necessary for the swap, then leaving the clock... :-P Yeah, that should be an easy one. Good stuff!Originally Posted by offthahook
If you wanted to keep the A/C though, you should be able to bolt that ES2 A/C compressor up to the A20, but then you have the issue with the pulleys, and you'd have to use the ES2 pulley on the A20. Then you'd have to use the ES2 alternator, and that might not be happy with the fuel injection... I guess the A20 A/C compressor could connect to the 2g A/C lines?
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 06-15-2007 at 10:29 AM.
Excellent. Most excellent. I've been dreading the wiring portion of this for a while.
I'm not especially impressed that you drilled holes in otherwise mint rocker panels, I hope you fix that before rust gets in.
Should probably rig up a check engine light so you know if you're throwing any codes, I'm using the choke light in my cluster for this. My buddy suggested I replace the choke symbol for the international symbol for fuel computer distress, the swastika.
I'm eagerly awaiting the road test results.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
i didnt rely take the time to read all the post and this might be stoopid to say but did you have the head and block machined down and use a new head gasket? bucause if not that might be you problem even if you use a new gasket sometimes on old blocks they will just never meat up quite right and blow after like a day to a week. thats all from me
Guyhatesmycar asked me to update this thread so here goes...
Cars done!Finished it 2 weeks ago and brought it back to the bay with me.
Runs good, not throwing any codes. I decided not to wire in a check engine light, I just don't feel I need it, if I suspect a problem I will just check the LED on the ECU. It never had A/C so that wasnt a problem for me.
I did drill those holes in the rocker panels, but they arent mint. I sprayed some primer on them to seal them for now. One of those thing I would have liked to do "cleaner" but I was just too short on time.
The digital clock was plug and play no wiring required, FYI.
The car drives great, I did the swap using the super tall geared ES2 trans and it's still much faster then my 3g was(Had short geared 2g lude trans). Plus side is that it gets awesome gas mileage. Having a lot of fun driving it around. I bent and twisted the gas pedal around till it was just right and now I find it super easy to heel-toe in this car.
Here are some pics. Next time I wash it I plan on getting proper pics 'cause this is all I have for now:
Here is how I mounted the Walbro pump in the stock location. I wrapped it in old radiator hose for vibration insulation, and used a U bolt to secure it:
My digi clock:
Random pics from the drive back, awesome weather:
She goes pretty good:
So the remaining problems I still intend to fix are:
1. Clutch will slip when it's very cold sometimes. (It's the ES2 clutch, may not have enough clamping force for the a20.)
2. Missing a vaccume line on the heater core, the center door doesnt open.
3. Muffler has rust holes, sounds crazy at high RPM.
4. Can't find lowering springs for it.
5. Can't find lowering springs for it!!!
Future mods:
1. CAI, has super short ram right now. Already ordered this.
2. Header. Probably a cheapo paceshitter with a repaint and wrap.
3. Custom 2.25" exhaust with hi flow cat and proper muffler. This ES2 exhaust has to be restricting the a20 terrible like.
4. Exedy clutch and one of those 9 lbs. aluminium flywheels.
5. Re-install the short geared 2G lude trans with the clutch and flywheel.
6. Frickin lowering springs if I can ever get a hold of them! Plus the Koni inserts. Springs!
7. Strut tower bars.
8. Oil pressure, water temp, and volt meter gauges.
Yeah if anyone hasnt figured it out by now, I desperately need some lowering springs. I'm not buying anything else for this car untill I am sure I can get stiffer springs for it. Eibach is disconinued, B+G too.....
Nice!
I found a couple of websites still claiming the B+G springs for sale. Did you check them out?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I'd guess that those sites for the B+G springs don't really have them... most sites that claim to have anything don't really, they just drop ship stuff from the factory, and leave the shit on their website even after the factory discontinues it.
Nice work though MustardCat! You were in the bay area this weekend?! Dude, you missed the meet! I wish I could have seen your car while I was down there... Damn! I was so close! Aah maybe next time I drive down...
If you do put a 2g lude tranny in, don't forget to get the one for the 1.8 lude. The 2.0's have the 3g size splines, and your 2g axles won't fit.
And if you do an exhaust, I can tell you at least about mine and what NOT to do. Right now, my car has the DC header, with a Magnaflow highflow cat, 2.25 inch exhaust and Magnaflow muffler. It's got that damn farty sound, that kinda annoys me. I'd suggest trying something other than a Magnaflow. I think even MessyHonda has a Magnaflow and he says the same exact thing.
Also, strut tower bars, you'll have to build yourself. I've never seen a set that works. I have a 240SX bar that is VERY close. It might be something good to start with, but it doesn't clear the hood. Any strut bar that has an upward curve won't fit under our hoods.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 07-12-2007 at 10:04 PM.
I've got a line on some springs that may still be available, SPAX makes some, they are still listed in their catalog as a special order part. Bad part is SPAX is a british company and none of their U.S. dealers list them on their websites, so I've got some e-mails out. Part number is S012003 in case anyone is wondering.
The trans was originally out of a 1.8, when I put it in my 3G accord I had to swap out the spider gears in the diff. to get the axles to fit, so when I put it in the 84 I'll just dig out the original 1.8 spider gears and re-install those.
For my STB's I'm just going to make some from scratch, I designed and produced some for 3G ludes so I'm pretty familiar with making them. I think on this car I'm going to add some additional bracing to stiffen it up more.
I was here last weekend but I was working so I would have probably missed it anyways, course I didnt even know there was one till now. :-)
Cool! I remember you mentioning making some strut braces for the 2nd Gen Accord a while back. If you're down for making another set, I'll come up with the $$$ to make it worth your time. I don't have the tools to do much fabrication...
Oh yeah, company in Australia still makes springs for our cars. King Springs. Shipping is KILLER though. Almost as much as the springs themselves. I think they were going to charge me like $700 after all was said and done. If I hadn't picked up my Eibachs, I would have done it though.
http://www.kingsprings.com/
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 07-13-2007 at 07:35 AM.
for me i think it took some time to break in the new high flow cat and muffler. its not as raspy as yours anymore. it only does it when the car is cold but after its warm doesnt rasp alot. or maybe its thoes .2 more liters that keep more of a backpresure on the system. i did hear your and it was damn ricer loud...hahaha. anyways i think its time for a resignator.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Damnit! I don't wanna be ricer loud! I hope that goes away, or maybe I'll go have them put the resonator back in the system... Boo!Thanks for telling me BTW. Nobody else said anything... I wish I had known for sure sooner. Back to the exhaust shop!
Sorry for the thread jack / whore...
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 07-13-2007 at 05:33 PM.
Very impressive for what you've done with the swap. Obvious this isn't your first run at trying to accomplish such a complicated job. Good luck finding some springs & what not. Impressed by your accomplishments. Keep it up MustardCat.
.
It's been more than a year since my last post in this thread so here is an update.
The car has been running great, have not had to do a thing to it. No problems with the swap, which is pretty awesome considering the time pressures I was under when I did all the work on it.
I recently took a road trip down to San Jose. With 1 passenger, approx 100lbs luggage, and spare + tools I calculated 37mpg on I-5 driving though the mountains in south Oregon. Speeds were usually around 65-75mph.
Once in the city I got 34-35mpg with lots of lead-footing everywhere. (When in Rome...)
On the return trip I only got 35mpg on the highway, but I believe this is because I was driving mostly at 80-90mph and had the windows down because of the heat. The car goes about 450 miles on a single tank before the gas light comes on. (anyone know the listed tank size?) I gassed up in Yreka CA, near the northern border and drove right through Oregon up past Olympia WA on a single tank. So I'm pretty happy with the gas mileage, and I think with some tweaking and whatnot I can get 40mpg highway easy.
So to sum up how I feel: I think this swap is perfect for someone who's looking for an easy bolt-in motor with minimal investment and a good increase in power. Just dropping in a stock 88-89 LXi A20a3 I gained +34HP and +23 ft-lb torque, plus there is still plenty of room to get even more power from the motor. There is also a bazillion cheap junky 3G Accords out there with all the parts you will need for the swap, so parts are easy to get.
Some recent pictures:
Sweet man! Glad it's still going! So when are you going to come back through Olympia and give me a ride in it?
really cool!
Sweet!!
2004-2011?
i must admit i love the efi
epic succeed!
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
thats a really good build man.. glad to see 2nd gens using 3rd gen engines..
i have a question tho.. kinda noobish..
how can you see what your getting MPG wise? computer or just do math with every tank of gas you burn up?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
its prob just doing the math lol miles driven divided by the gas you used(how many gallons you fill up)
ok heres a good one.. i filled up and so far im getting around 150-200miles to the tank..
im no genius but thats not good at all haha.. ideas?
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
Well, if you're low on power, and you're getting shitty mileage there are a number of things:
Ignition Timing
Cam Timing
Improper Mixture
Injector Problems
Clogged Air Filter
Clogged Cat
I'm sure there are more.
holy crap! that is really bad.
i get about 340 miles to a tank
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