i'm gonna try to do this job and i wonder if anyone has any advice? How tight is the crank bolt? anything to watch out for?
Well i'm wondering also if this is a valve bender if the belt goes, if not, i may put off the job awhile? also what motor is in the 89lx?
thx a lot
from everything i've read on here, our engines will get super fucked if your timing belt breaks
Originally Posted by frantik
i thought that someone figured out that it was a non interference engine?
i honestly have no idea but here's a first hand acct of someone who bent their valves
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost....26&postcount=4
well my uncles timing belt went out when he was driving my sister and me to school....he had a 89LX it was at a stop....the valves did not get mest up it just needed a new belt and it ran like a champ till he sold it to the junkyard.....
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i think its the b20's valves that bend, i find a few of them on trademe with snapped belts and bent valves. A series is fine though
The engines are technically "interferance" design. There are somewhat valve releifs on top of the pistons. When the belt breaks at lower R.P.M.'s, the rocker arms aren't going to ride on the highest point of the cam lobes normally. That is why most don't have valve damage, that is not the case is other situations.
I recommend replacing the tensioner, and possibly the water pump. If your engine has HIGH milage, replacing the oil pump would be wise.
Put the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder compression stroke before removing any valve train. Adjust the valve lash since your in there too. Good luck.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 08-13-2006 at 04:19 PM.
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well regardless of what might happen, it's prolly not something you want to find out the hard way
hmm, whats a dangerous RPM to snap the belt at?
i bet anything over 4000 RPM or 8000rpm cuz you think you got VTECH!
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I would chane the belt. I was cruising at 65mph at about 3k and by belt broke and DEMOLISHED the engine. I had bent valves, busted valve guides, holes in the top of my pistons. You name it. Depending on how good you are at changing these it could take you 30min to 3-4 hours. The water pump doesn't have to be changed because it is ran off a different belt other than the timing belt. You can change it without having to get in the timing area. I had a buddy that was slowing down and at 20mph snapped his belt and it just bent four valves.
you wont know really if valves are bent till it off, if you have over 150k miles , you aughta get a valve job done anyways. spare no expense, but be thrifty, the car will thank you with trouble free service.search the forums .please, unless your on dialup.... you can find ooodles of info and experience here. interferance, I dont anybody knows the answer, really do ya.do ya do ya...liars..... some engines have cutouts for valve clearance, carb models.
if valves bend, is it just simple anough to pull the head off, take out valves, hammer them back straight and put it back together and work? my dad was telling me that 1 of his mates done that in his car or something, would be cool if it worked on a 3gee
OD your kwackin me up... I think that actually worked on a 1961 Ramblerif valves bend, is it just simple anough to pull the head off, take out valves, hammer them back straight and put it back together and work? my dad was telling me that 1 of his mates done that in his car or something, would be cool if it worked on a 3gee
American station wagon, inline six, but still had to lapp the valves alil bit... lmfao...keepers may not stay put though..hasrrrhaaarrrr
i just read this post now :| but how did you manage to damage your pistons? i know theres dents already in the pistons for valve clearance. and i know if you have the belt off wwith the head on, you can still crank the engine without it hitting the valves. but if you do mange to bend your valves, and dont wanna get them fixed or what not, you can either swap the engine, or just go to a JY and pull a head off another engine, i think all A series heads are the same.
I do relize that our pistons have valve reliefs, but they aren't supposed to have holes in the top if the pistons. I should have taken some pics of the carnage.
HOles in the pistons, means burned piston, way too lean mixture there. It is possible one of the intake cam lobes wore out, or the engine has been out of time for a while. what does the valves look like on that wholey cylinder? If the cylinder is not gouged or scarred badly ,you can just replace that piston, and maybe reuse the rod bearing for that cyl if it aint hurt, just put it back exactly the way it came out. Follow forum howto for oil pan gasket change. Then you have to find out why it is leaning out so bad.
you guys dont hang out at 6000, 7000 rpm a lot do you,? AINT NOTHING HAPPENING THERE I PROMISE, unless you done some P&P on head ,squirting and or turbo, and balanced crank rotating assy. Revving A20 that high does nothing but tear up shit unless you have the three things mentioned done, and not just one of the three, all of dem..
As for the crank bolt, pep boys, or you can look at some other resources, but the pep boys has teh best deal; it is a goodyear brand cordless impact driver. comes with case and sockets. It works like a champ, there 89 dollars here, and the best money you can spend, get a half inch to three eighths adapter so you can use regular sockets with it, or you could just buy a 17mm impact socket half inch drive. Keep in mind the more extensions and adapters you put on it, the less impact force you have. I got my crank bolt off in seconds, wheels off in miliseconds.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 08-25-2006 at 03:58 AM.
revvingA20, watch the speedo and the tach needles, when the speedo goes down and teh tack goes up, duh
when the speedo needle is moving very slowley as is the tach, regardless of what the numbers say. duh,the revs are not making any more speed.
Im a ass sometimes aye..... I have 2nd degree burns on my legs from laptop, duh.... get off internet..... l
IF you have a impact socket & impact to spin off the crank bolt off, less headache your going to have. Do a search on some other methods of breaking it loose if you don't have a impact driver.
Spin the tensioner to see if you hear anything like dry bearings, (if you do, replace it) I would replace it anyway, cause your in there.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 08-26-2006 at 09:43 PM.
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