hey guys whats goin on well the other day my dad and i were taking apart tha distributor, to change some seals and tha head, along with some other things, and we had found 2 springs inside that were hooked at the end, but one was stretched and moving sloppily around, while the other one was tight..we looked on hondapartsdeals.com and couldn't find those springs to buy and i was wonderin if anybody knows what im talkin about and could give me some help...thanks
My TEC was like that also, the mechanical advance was loose on one spring. It doesn't seem right to me having two different springs and one so loose. I'm not an expert so someone else will have to step in and tell you if that is normal or not.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ewpost&t=53918
- llia
as long as the weights are free moving the plate (with spring tension) your okay, as long as they return freely also and not get stuck out. I have seen other makes like this with two diff springs oem,. Maybe it discourages the centrifical advance assembly for gettng totaly binded. Performance shops used to sell what they call curve kits, you could go full blown max advance curve, or just install one of the new springs to slow the full advance at engineered rpm. They used to make a distributor machine you could install just the dizzy in the machine and dial in desired advance curve. Now days you trail by error using a advancing timing light ...on a side note..., I wish we could adapt one of those adjustable vacc advance cans to our honda dizzys., you could stick an allen wrench inside the vacc hose nipp, and preload a spring to limit the amount the diaphagm moved the plate.
IOK going to JY to buy a killer dist. for my modified a20 CARB,,,, WHAT DO i NEED TO LOOK FOR..thanks ,, I think Im gonna run a bosh blue coil like on a hot bug,12V of course or any suggesstions
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