Couple common probs. that I just had...

[offthahook]

Okay, these are somewhat related and very common.

First, there is a rubber stopper/nipple thing on all our brake pedals. This breaks the circuit when the brake is NOT applied. Over time, this stopper wears out on most older Hondas. What happens next is two metal pieces touch when the brake is not applied. However, with no rubber to incomplete/open the circuit, your brake lights are always on. Yes, even with the car off. Cheap part, very common problem.

So, my battery runs down. On my car and my old 78 Accord, the positive (normally red) terminal has a black cover that protects it. If you're not 100% double checking, you will hook your jumper cable that is for the (-) to this post. The second you get all the cables connected (assuming your boost battery is good), you will see smoke and smell burning plastic. You blew the main fuse that is located RIGHT near the (+) cable under a cover. NOTHING will work and you can't jump it. This prevents current from frying other things in the engine. Again, easy fix. But it sux to have it happen. Also, you can get a group 51 battery or a 51R battery. We need the standard group 51. Otherwise, the terminals are switched around. The cable closest to the strut tower is the (+) on our whips. When replacing the battery, just be sure to doublecheck or you'll blow that main fuse again.

EDIT: The rubber stopper actually rests on the brakelight SWITCH itself. The stopper pushes the spring loaded button on the switch when the brake isn't being applied. So, when the rubber stopper is gone, the switch is activated at all times. Thought I'd clarify that.

[MessyHonda]

nice tips....yeah my cover for the positive was red but it was all bad....so i cut it and put a new connector.....my old one would not hold on the post and my car would not start. i read the manual and when you jumpstart the car you should put the negative wire to the engine and the positive to the batt.

[offthahook]

Yeah, I have tried to do the metallic engine ground before. But, it has NEVER worked! I don't know why either. I pick a nice piece of unpainted metal and it does nothing. Then, I put the cable on the dead negative post and it's all good. Weird. I'm going to paint a big red + sign on the black cover thingy. I'll use a touchup stick that will really stand out. Next battery change, I am doing new color coordinated cables for sure! Just glad I don't have an ECM or anything like that. My buddy jumped his wife's Benz with his Rover and fried the ECM and main wire harness. Over $4000 later, he's fine though.

[2ndGenGuy]

Dude! I just did that crap on my Bronco. Had to replace the Starter and Alternator. Lucky it didn't fry the ECU... But yeah I bought the same group battery, and didn't realize it was that "R" designation. I put it in and hooked it up, and SMOKEY SMOKEY! So thats what the "R" means. Damn I even asked the guy at the store wtf the difference was, and he was like "I dunno they look the same to me..." Damn it! Oh well, $300 later, I'm back on the off-road.

[offthahook]

Dude! I just did that crap on my Bronco. Had to replace the Starter and Alternator. Lucky it didn't fry the ECU... But yeah I bought the same group battery, and didn't realize it was that "R" designation. I put it in and hooked it up, and SMOKEY SMOKEY! So thats what the "R" means. Damn I even asked the guy at the store wtf the difference was, and he was like "I dunno they look the same to me..." Damn it! Oh well, $300 later, I'm back on the off-road.

How ironic. My buddy and I were replacing the main fuse tonight, commenting on how genius of Honda to put that $1 piece of metal right near the (+) cable to prevent further damage if the poles ever got switched. He has an RL, so he's down. We were wondering if domestics did anything like that or if it just fried the alternator and maybe the ECM. We were wrong; I guess the starter is game as well. We were also talking about how scary it is to jumpstart any of the newer cars with all the electronics that are super sensitive. Sorry about your Ford.

Honda in 1981-- +1
Ford Bronco-- 0.

Absolutely amazing.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah... if only Honda made a real rugged 4 wheel drive vehicle. Unfortunately there's nothing on the Honda line thats similar to the Bronco II. Thats probably why though, they make such good cars, because thats more what they focus on...

[EX-ileAccord]

Yeah... if only Honda made a real rugged 4 wheel drive vehicle. Unfortunately there's nothing on the Honda line thats similar to the Bronco II. Thats probably why though, they make such good cars, because thats more what they focus on...

well honda did make a 4wd 4 door civic hatch that was pretty much unstopable my dad had one but it was the 2wd model we had that thing in some pretty tight places, and it was sweet in the snow. 2ndGenGuy do you have any problems with your bronco? I just bought one for a woods/winter beater

[ghettogeddy]

nice tips....yeah my cover for the positive was red but it was all bad....so i cut it and put a new connector.....my old one would not hold on the post and my car would not start. i read the manual and when you jumpstart the car you should put the negative wire to the engine and the positive to the batt.

i just use the rad support to clamp the neg cable to

[MessyHonda]

i just use the rad support to clamp the neg cable to

i would do it from batt to batt and then my teacher said that it was a bad thing to do...i never hurt anything but one mistake can cost you....yeah now i just use the valve cover nut with the ground wire

[2ndGenGuy]

well honda did make a 4wd 4 door civic hatch that was pretty much unstopable my dad had one but it was the 2wd model we had that thing in some pretty tight places, and it was sweet in the snow. 2ndGenGuy do you have any problems with your bronco? I just bought one for a woods/winter beater

I will admit, I love the little 4wd Wagovan. Thought about buying one and putting some spacers in the springs and some agressive all terrain tires on it... Would be sweet! It just doesn't have much towing capability is the problem...

As far as the Bronco II, I've beat the living crap out of it for 2 years now. I havne't really done any maintainence to it except fluid changes. The only major issue I had was some overheating due to the heater core and thermostat. It still runs kinda hot, but not so hot I can't drive it... I think I put the wrong temp thermostat in it. It's got a cracked exhaust manifold which is a result of me driving through deep water while it's hot. Umm, other than that, it's been super-reliable. I fit 31/10.50x15's on it without any lift, though they rub a little bit.

Oh yeah, the gas gauge is a POS, I've run out of gas twice becuase it registers 1/4 tank sometimes when it's empty... But that's an 80's Ford problem. Replacing the sending unit fixes that...

[EX-ileAccord]

well thats good to hear. Is yours 5 speed or auto?

[2ndGenGuy]

It's a 5-speed.

[EX-ileAccord]

Yeah mine too, bit i think one of the hydro lines blew out because at the moment its got no clutch lol

[offthahook]

UPDATE: I got the pedal pad part today and it was the problem. It is now a hard, white plastic instead of the black rubbery cushion type. The parts guy said he thinks the new Accords still use that same part number! Obviously, it's been redsigned. He told me has sold hundreds.

I also got an extra main fuse and put it in the glovebox. Not a bad idea in case I ever need a jump and get caught slippin'. It blows the instant polarity is reversed. The parts guy said he had sold a ton of those, too.