Well, from what I know, the b16 manifold will fit on the A20 but you'll have to tab it for like 4 new bolt holes, which isn't hard at all to do.....
Well, from what I know, the b16 manifold will fit on the A20 but you'll have to tab it for like 4 new bolt holes, which isn't hard at all to do.....
so i would have to just drill different holes in the b16 manny, or something on our car?
i have a friend who bought a skunk2 intake manny for his SI, and he said i could have his stock manifold, is this worth my while, or is it pointless unless i am running a performance manfold from the b16a?
does that even make sense!?
Yeah, you will have to drill like 4 new holes into the head so the intake will fit..... The b16 manifold is not a performance manifold it's just a better manifold then many but to our cars, it is....... If you're boy is willing to give it to you then you better jump on it........
hmm so its easy enough to modify onto my car? well if it will "help" i might as well jump on it like you said. cool i will call him up and see if he's still got it. he offered it to me a few weeks ago, hopefully it hasnt dissapeared yet!
Once you get it, you should have your head port matched to the manifold because the openings(ports) on the manifold are going to be larger than the openings(ports) on your head...... This is how you maximize the performance of that manifold......
cool, and how long/how expensive is this process?
if its something i could do in a weekend i would be all over that.
any tenative guesses as to the power that i could gain from this? at this point i am thinking that a bigger TB would be a smart plan! any pointers in that department.
Well, if you're not experienced in porting than I would take it to a shop and depending on the shop I can't see it costing you that much....... Most of the power you will feel will be in the top end..... Larger TB will be a great addition as well but also remember that when you're adding more air it's good to add more fuel..... That's when you start looking into an adjustable fuel reg., larger injectors and possible a better fuel bump..... But you might not need all of those right off the back but I would at least go with the FPR.......
hmm, the pics i posted look different than mikes manifold....i hope it will still work...
also, would it behoove me to snag a fuel rail from a teg or civic SI?
and how likely am i to find the fuel rail/ TB from a car with the b16? is it gonna be a 3 month treasure hunt or not? i havent ever dug around in those cars at the junkyard... anyway, heres my manifold.
Yeah, they look just a little different but that could be because Mike's is a JDM manifold....... As long as you hook up your sensors correctly than there shouldn't be a problem...... If I were you I would talk to Mike to see if he could give you any tips on sensor location and maybe the difference between the two......
good thread to bring back....
- llia
With the swapped manifold on an A20, what happens with the EGR plumbing and valve/lift sensor? If they're removed, how is the computer faked into not throwing a code every time?
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
Originally Posted by bobafett
just unbolt the EGR I suppose and leave it hanging.
- llia
Well, I've been working on this mod for like 3 months now and I can tell you one thing, there's a lot of work that goes into this swap......... This mod is easier for engines that don't have a ton of vacuum lines..... There's a lot of grinding and drilling involved which makes it more than a 2 day project..... I have everything worked out so far except for the EGR sensor because the b16 doesn't have one so there's nowhere to retro fit it to the mani...... I disconnected mine at the connector just to see if it would throw a code but it didn't...... All it did is idle funny like I had a bad thermostat..... But I might try what you said A20A1 and leave it connected so the ECU sees that its still there but zip tie it out of the way somewhere...... Hopefully that will solve the idle problem.....
The ECU will get so PISSED :lolOriginally posted by A20A1
just unbolt the EGR I suppose and leave it hanging.
I saw that on Openloop's white Accord, they were able to remove the black box, EGR and all the other goodies. Is there anyone (nudge nudge wink wink Openloop) that could give me info on how to do that?
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
oooih i would love to be able to get rid of all that shit...
mike help!
But the thing is you don't have to remove your black box to make this work.... The only thing you'll be doing is minimizing the amount of vacuum lines you'll be using....... The reason Mike removed his is because he's running a completely different setup, that b20.......
That's his grey one. The white one is an A20A3. That's the one with the stuff removed.
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
I don't think the white one is running a b16 mani. as well but I could be wrong........ Might need Mike to clear this up a little.... But as far as I do know, you won't need to remove the black box because I didn't......
yeah and a bumber lipOriginally posted by joker2
That's when you start looking into an adjustable fuel reg., larger injectors and possible a better fuel bump.....
~<+045+ygH05+>~
Hey, Don't forget that Blinker fluid. that'll help with StoppingOriginally posted by toastyghost
yeah and a bumber lip
sorry guys v8's rule
yeah blinker fluid is key :lol
~<+045+ygH05+>~
omg the bumber again!
Sorry, I don't get it
That motor looks sweet!
there was a thread a while ago where i newb kept saying bumber and it drove me nuts so i heckled them a bit! :POriginally posted by joker2
Sorry, I don't get it
and now the bumber is back...
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