$50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

[3G Jester]

no joke kids. for half a weekend and 50 bucks you could have a banging paint job.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

and the corolla in this one is beautiful
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133867

read allthe info very carefully. theres lots of good info...time to dry, consistancy...durrability, painting on unprimered metal or prime'd
yuou just gotta take the time to read it all. butreading the threads will take more time then actually painting the pics. i would first suggest skimming the threads just too look atthe pics. the first link has dozens of pages but if you go page by page skimming youll read a lot and see a lot of hot work.

check it out

[BITESIZE]

I'm lazy give us a summary.

[3G Jester]

ok.

this was done with a bucket of duplicolor paint, thinned with mineral spirits to the consistancy of watter and rolled on with a foam roller.


tools, paint and everything....costs about 50 bucks. it takes about half a weekend. dries fast (takes a month or so to FULLY cure as does EVERY paint job..pro or not.) buffable within the first few days for a brilliant shine. and if primered and prepped right is very durrable.

[BITESIZE]

Do they then shoot with a coat of clear?....I started reading it, and it's pretty damn tempting to try it on a fender or hood first. Only problem is what colors are available?

[3G Jester]

well. you dont shoot anything. you just roll on the walmart dulpicolor paint and buff it for the shine.

you can bring paint samples or pictures into walmart and they can scan them and color match them. anything is available.

[jschatte]

I never knew that that was possible! You just need a little skill and a bit of time and you cant paint your car for dirt cheap.

[88Accord-DX]

here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../Picture10.jpg
the car before:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/Picture1.jpg

here's a few pics of the charger done:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC02764.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/DSC02769.jpg

well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy bumpers, door handles it just sticks out more.

[88Accord-DX]

Double post.

Anyhow, not bad for roller brush & hella wetsanding.

[BITESIZE]

Holy Frickin Shit! I'm so trying this on my car when I'm done with the body work. I didn't even know you could do this.

Does the paint match all over? Like, if I tried it on a fender first and got awesome results, then finished the whole car a couple days later...Would it all match?

After the paint is mixed, how long does it stay good for in the can? What colors are their and a full list of "tools" would be great.

[3G Jester]

i dunno. looks like it will match. im doing my kit liek this. looks like it should come out half decent. im not waiting a year to mount my kit.

[gp02a0083]

this is coming from an experianced painter , i f'in hate rattle can jobs i mean ive seen some decent work liek one guy did a duplicolor candy apple red mustang ( fox body ) i mean hell for my hatchie i used duplicolor only to do patch work which im pissed b/c its a bit darker and i didnt blend the gas tank cover either but its hard to belive that one is done with a roller brush i cant see how it can be a great job i mean thats allmost liek painting with the old laquer i guess that stuff u can paint it on the beach and it will look good , the newer urathane stuff is alot harder to work with compared to laquer

[88Accord-DX]

Edit- I was going to say, I've done some painting in my day. I've seen some roller brush jobs, but anything is possible with patience & lots of elbow grease.

[ghettogeddy]

no joke kids. for half a weekend and 50 bucks you could have a banging paint job.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
and the corolla in this one is beautiful
http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=133867
read allthe info very carefully. theres lots of good info...time to dry, consistancy...durrability, painting on unprimered metal or prime'd
yuou just gotta take the time to read it all. butreading the threads will take more time then actually painting the pics. i would first suggest skimming the threads just too look atthe pics. the first link has dozens of pages but if you go page by page skimming youll read a lot and see a lot of hot work.
check it out

great find maybe ill take my gas tank door in and have walmart paint match so i can do my moldings and wing maybe even my vent shades

[frantik]

too bad u can't do metallics with it

[BITESIZE]

well. you dont shoot anything. you just roll on the walmart dulpicolor paint and buff it for the shine.

you can bring paint samples or pictures into walmart and they can scan them and color match them. anything is available.

When you say duplicolor...you mean in the can...not spray?

[A20A1]

Yeah I've seen some okay roller jobs and they were not even trying to do it nicely it was more like "hey lets see what this will do"

If there is a certain paint that is suited well for rolling onto the car I might get some. I always had trouble with the hood and roof coming out good an this seems to be a nice solution over trips to the spray booth.

[ICEMAN707]

Some people actually got good results from this method. But IMO it only works well on basic gloss non-metallic colors. I.E. black, red, white, grey, yellow, etc.

This one looks like an oldschool NES:





The materials may be $50....but to get a really crystal clear shine though, a good electric buffer is a must. Polishing by hand can only do so much and it still looks hazy. If you already have a spray gun, I think a spray gun would be better cus it cuts down alot on wetsanding since spraying puts on a much more even layer than a roller would....also less chance of orange peel and it can get paint in tight places where a roller can't reach. Only thing with spraying is all the masking and face mask use.

Having no clearcoat also means more maintenance waxing/polishing if you want to keep that shine. Whereas with clearcoat, washing with carwash soap and water is all you need to keep that shine.

[895spdforfree]

hey isnt there a clear though for that rustolium stuff? i thought someone mentioned a clear coat from that same brand?

[3G Jester]

When you say duplicolor...you mean in the can...not spray?

yes. and DONT SHAKE TO MIX....HAND STIR.

and IF YOU READ THOSE THREADS..you will se that the issue of a gloss clear coat (or any clear coat) is discussed to a great length. the shine is very glossy as you can see i nthe pictures but does require some buffing to get there. the reason for the electric buffer is that your fingers dont provide for an even buff. i picked up a perfect little bufer and walmart for 20 bucks. read those threads guys! they answer all your questions!

and yeah spraying would be better, of course pro jobs would be better.....but for 50 bucks and a days worth of work you could get rid off that bondo and primer look!!
im not saying its a perfect slution to last you the rest of your cars life. im saying its the perfect job for someone who's car looks like shit and needs a full coat of paint everywhere (to cover up the bondo and primer), and maybe wants to keep the car but doesnt know if they are going to keep working on it....
its a great temp job.

i havea lip kit for my av6 thats taking up space, i havent mounted it because iif i bring it to a shop to mount and paint match it..then im going to pay BIG $$$ for a paint job that wunt match in a year. my car has plenty of little dings and lots of scratches from katrina. She is getttting a new paint job, most likely with her new engine/tranny which will come at the end of this one. i give it about a year. im not waiting a year to have this freaking kit taking up space in my apartment and im not paying huge bucks to have it matched to a color thats already got hella imperfections. this will match it (hopefully) close enough for me to mount the kit, have it look semi decent (instead of those baby blue primer body kits and mis matched cars) for the time being so i can gain back this space and even see if i really like this kit and want it on there when she gets a multi-thousand dollar paint job.

Some people actually got good results from this method. But IMO it only works well on basic gloss non-metallic colors. I.E. black, red, white, grey, yellow, etc.

I think a spray gun would be better cus it cuts down alot on wetsanding since spraying puts on a much more even layer than a roller would....also less chance of orange peel and it can get paint in tight places where a roller can't reach. Only thing with spraying is all the masking and face mask use.
Having no clearcoat also means more maintenance waxing/polishing if you want to keep that shine. Whereas with clearcoat, washing with carwash soap and water is all you need to keep that shine.

they discuss the issue of metalic colors in those threads. they say flake colors and effects dont work out to well. and if you read the threads you see the use of a foam brush is used to smooth out and take of places the roller cant read well. if your patient it will come out right.

and mike...you said you had trouble with how it came out....how thin was it? the biggest problem mentioned in all these threads is the people who thought they had it too thin but still had it too thick. you want it like water man.

[2oodoor]

THANKS BUNCHES TO jESTER FOR THIS POST!!!!
I like to express graditude for those that provide useable infor for our cars, its cause Im "the ole mighty one" as tagged by another member, Old man is another one though Im only two duece double shots.
The important points of Jesters post is the fact that you can recoat this stuf without stripping, very very good property. If you goof you can clay block, wet sand very carefully ...I recommend using dish soap a lil bit inthe water bucket your sanding from. Another thing its it can save you enough money or custom paint after its cured, such as peal away effect, flames, lightening, smiley faces....whatever floats you nads. i worked several years myself in paint and body, I have painted in boothes, in the yard, in the woods,shhhhhh, the biggiest thing is prepwork, and paying close attention to enviornment, dust and flying debris no matter how small, bugs, temperature, um a friend pulling up to 100 feet away with fresh armor all on his tires.wind, all sorts of stuf, a good painter does this stuff instinctivly almost have to actlike a CFDC worker...lol , modern facilities help these potential problems to increase productivity.
I am very interested n this product, another reason is local ordinances about spraying cars in your back yard shop. My neighbor paints like a MF, he is one of the best flame with shadows, or ghost flame layout dudes I ever met, he does choppers, neked ladies, all of it, Im gonna take him some special brownies so I can get some peel back, or ghost flame on my old LX, also want something done on my crownvic interceptor too, like ghost waving checkerboard or something for wifes kid cab, its still too narcky looking (not that is bad, but I dont want drive bys in my yard )even with the white letter tires ... its gonna take a lot of brownnies,, lol

[ICEMAN707]

Since this stuff is made for painting furniture anyways, I would try painting a sidetable/nightstand first to practice on. I would also roll on a few coats of clearcoat on top of the basecoat to get a deeper shine. Just like using polyurethane on hardwood floors. They use a big floor sander and buffer to get it super smooth and shiny after that. Takes alot of wetsanding/recoating/buffing to get it perfect and super shiny with no haze. Cheap comes in the expense of extra elbow grease when it comes to this method. But it's definitely worth trying out.

I believe you can also do metallics with this method by way of using rattle can first of the basecoat metallic color you want, then rolling on the 6+ coats of Rustoleum clearcoat over that. Making sure you build a thick enough layer of clearcoat to work on when you wetsand so the sandpaper doesn't go through to the basecoat and ruin it. It's gonna take alot of coats to get it thick enough since you'll be rolling on clearcoat in the consistency of water.

[Legend_master]

too bad u can't do metallics with it

Do you mean painting metallics or getting metallic colors? Because the guy said it is best to paint right onto bare metal.

[ICEMAN707]

He means metallic paint. You can't do a roll-on job with metallic paint for obvious reasons that it has metallic glitter in it. It would leave ugly rolling patterns all over the surface you are painting on and you can't sand it smooth. You can only do a roll-on job with a basic gloss color. No metallics, pearls, chameleons, etc. - gotta spray those to get an even coat. After that, you CAN roll-on clearcoat, but it's gonna take a shitload of sanding to get it smooth and get the orange-peel off. Pretty risky if you never done paint work before. Spraying is always better, saves time in finish sanding in expense of taking more time for masking, having paint fumes, and wearing a mask and goggles as well as other necessary spraying equipment.

[smufguy]

this is just nutz. I dont see any metallic paints tho. Just damn flat ones

[ghettogeddy]

well u could roll a flat color then spray a metallic over if u do it right it should look real good