well, i was a little broke from rebuilding the motor so i had to stick with the stock-like pistons. if i had the choice, i would have ditched the stock-like pistons and went with forged pistons instead, but i went a little broke from the bill i had to pay on top of a bunch of other BS...
anyways, to my question. how much power would a stock-like piston be able to withstand? my machinest says the pistons are basically an OEM replacement, so their just as strong as an OEM piston, but just cheaper
so they are not OEM. well stock ones can handle 12 psi. in your case cut it down to 8 psi 10 max.
That is my opinion, but i am always on the safe side.
Alex.
damn... didnt accordeppicenter run 13's with a stock setup?
im guessing i should probably save up for custom forged pistons/rods instead then... why couldnt i have been bill gates son
i think he ran like 13.7 then rebuilt the engine....it did not go soo good. hope he comes on and updates us....anyways yeah...if bill gates had a 3gee it would have a turboed h22 with 4wheel drive.Originally Posted by newaccorddriver
damn... didnt accordeppicenter run 13's with a stock setup?
im guessing i should probably save up for custom forged pistons/rods instead then... why couldnt i have been bill gates son
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i was hoping to push 15PSI on stock-like pistons... i guess ill run maybe 10PSI on this motor and build elijahs old motor with forged pistons and eagle rods...
if bill gates had a 3g, jason budd would no longer have the worlds fastest SOHC engine anymore
would tuner toys B18 rods be a good choice for cost alternative solutions?
http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/R3-5394-H
get the stock-like ones cryoed and you should be good for 15psi?
what does cryo actually mean? i keep hearing it, but never really understood its meaning
Read Here:
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Woo Time for a Cryo'ed A20 Turbo!!!
Last edited by forrest89sei; 10-30-2006 at 09:07 PM.
2004-2011?
dang after reading that if we did that do our cars we might to 2 million miles on a engine! and never have a Auto die!
hehehehe...imagine a FULLY BUILT A20-t that has been cryo'ed...i wonder how much boost it could handle
yes as mentioned i was running 13psi boost and ive hit as much as 17-18 psi on stock everything. Managemant is the key, if you detonate even slightly when boosted the ring lands will eventually break up. I had a very conservative tune, and that 13psi i ran 13.7 at 105 on street tires, had the engine held up for some runs on slicks it would have been an easy 12.6-12.8 sec even with a so so 1.9 60ft slicks launch. I was pulling 2.4-2.6 60fts (terrible awful). When the engine finally went it was a spun main bearing, probably from some kind of damage pre turbo, it had a noise in the bottom end for a few years... Pistons looked good
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
i take it this was on an SAFC/BTM?
i bought the version of megasquirt which doesnt give me ignition options unless i go out of my way for it, so i might be buying another one. but how good is BTM really? if it works just that good, i might consider using a BTM instead
anyone have anything to say about these rods for custom pistons?
im torn between wether or not i want to run those stock-like pistons or LS rods and custom pistons, itll set me back big time...
yeah if you want reliable boast you have to be ready to spend the money like ppl said 8psi should be the max on stock pistons....
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
the btm is OK but for high boost i would get somthing better.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
the issue with stuff like SAFC and BTM is that it is linear tuning with fixed points of tuning.
a btm pulls timing X degrees per PSI of boost. and you control the X with a knob. but it doesnt have the ability to pull timing more or less agressively as boost increases. so you end up with a scenario like this:
at full boost (10psi for example) i need to pull 10 degrees of timing. so thats basically 1 degree per psi. thats fine, but maybe at 5psi you dont need to pull any timing for the motor to be running good and safe. but guess what u have 5 degrees retarded timing anyway. so you are losing power everywhere except with max boost. its just not as effective as a real tune
so its just not the best solution because its sort of just a hack.
same goes for the SAFC, you pick a few points that you actually tune, and the map just uses linear interpolation to 'guess' the rest.
its not at all like real tuning where you get to play with entire fuel and spark maps.
thanx lude. And yeah i agree with everything boba just said. In the end youre still running off a vaccuum advance distributor that does god knows what with boost through it and fuel maps that pretty choppy for boost, an safc and btm will work but its still considered a bandaid approach, the best way to achieve a good tune is to do dyno pulls with a wideband o2 sensor and either a chipped obd1 honda ecu and distributor or some kind of standalone, haltech/motec/hondata/megasquirt/aem ems etc etc
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
well said bobafett i learn stuff from you and Epicenter all the time for boost stuff thanks... just thought i'd put that out there.
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